Right on, thank you sir.

 

can you elaborate or provide thread links for stacking plates,thicker plates, and flipping springs? I have an NA open clutch type diff but am going t2 eventually. I was going to weld my na diff for now until the swap to have a little more fun. I don't think I can do anything with the gears in my current diff because its not lsd, just open right? welding is the only option I have?

Interested in how to lock t2 diffs though for when I have 3 or 4 laying around.lol. I want to be prepared. good stuff in this thread btw guys, you get gold stars.lol

 

so for a s4 t2 diff, I could buy the +.2 discs that are thicker on the site and then flip the outer springs? I have never opened a diff before, is it pretty self explanatory when I open it up? I'm pretty good at problem solving and figuring things out and have the fsm and haynes manual on hand.

prices seem pretty good on those thicker ones for the quicker locking you get. now if I am daily driving and then drifting maybe 5-10 hours a week, how long do you guys think it could potentially last? It seems like it would be performing normally through town unlike a welded diff so I want to say twice as long as a welded in my scenario. thanks for the info and link.

 

lsd,open,torsen,viscous,etc diff discussion for drifting/daily/grip
https://www.rx7club.com/drifting-226/welded-diff-viscous-locked-diff-drifting-715783/
it has some decent info in it so thought I would post it here since this is the drift setup thread. (for the new guys like me to see.lol)

SlideAlliance-is swapping the plates as you described referred to as "shimming" the diff? I have been searching and am confused if its the same thing or something different.

 

Yes, it has been referred to as shimming the diff... but also you could be referring to setting the run out, or lash.

This has more to do with the relationship of the pinion and ring gear, and making sure you aren't going to seize the thing up and spit out teeth.

And on the subject of replacing your diff, there are companies that make great products that work BETTER, than anything that you are going to slap together.

Welding a diff, is great for 2nd gear parkinglots, but if you plan on drifting(not just pressing the gas to break the tires loose) you will want the benefits of an engineered part. Especially if you are driving a rotary powered car.

Also, pulling out/putting in the diff on these things sucks. Do it right the first time, and you won't have to **** with it as much.

 

Drop the subframe out on a jack and LEAVE it on a jack when you drag it from under the car.

I hate removing mine. If it weren't for my brother and/or my buddy andrew being present swapping diffs and ******* with ****, i'd still have an open n/a.


Welded diff feels like **** in a daily. It's tollerable but driving around a parkinglot makes people think you're the poorest ************ on the planet with your "broke ***" car....

 

well, I wanted a kaaz 2 way but I need to spend money on other **** for the car. I need my coilovers, got to put some new rockers on, and rebuild a t2 engine. it is going to be a "broke ***" car for some time as its multi colored and has a big dent and yellow paint on the front fender and bumper from a slow wall hit. I just want to get the thing sideways and have some decent angle. I'm tired of drifting this thing completely stock. shitty part is its going to be hard to get work done this winter cause I don't have my garage anymore and its being tarped outside it'll be pretty ghetto for a while, I'm all about function over form at this point. the kaaz is staying on the wish list until I at least get my coilovers.

 

ats deftforce units aren't THAT much more expensive than a kaaz. Food for thought. They're both good diffs either way. The ats will last longer between rebuilds though if you're lazy and cheap but at the very least change your gear oil somewhat regularly.

If you're man/stupid/crazy/brave enough to run a welded on your car, go for it but the lines you have to take and they way you have to drive your car is going to be different than if you had a real lsd. Like i said, standard grip driving for the most part has been very good, even in the rain. You just have to drive and learn what the car likes and where to shift the weight to get the car to do what you want. For instance, i get some understeer on decel. If i dont heel toe or keep blipping the throttle, my car wants to fight me and push the front end straight. Power steering or not, it was difficult to get used to this. My footwork game is constantly improving and no doubt yours will too. Habits and footwork skills i'm developing now will help me out in the future when i go back to a real diff and more power.

Good luck with your endeavors and hopefully you get it right (for you) and enjoy it heaps!

 

haha, I already do heel-toe through town due to crap synchros on 2nd and 3rd. trying to get the most out of the tranny until I swap at least to the t2 driveline. haven't been beating it nearly enough because of that too. I think I'll just try and save for a used 1.5 or 2 way unit if I can find one. how much I work this winter will determine how much I spend on the FC, I'm a traffic flagger right now but winter means a lot less work in VT. my gf has a job to get us by though. my subie has a slapping sound now so I need to get my rockers on the FC and sand,coat the underside for winter just in case the subie gives out. I have around 2-3 weeks before snow falls so I'm rushing this now. ugh, I miss my garage.lol thanks for all the help guys.

 

Drop subframe a couple inches and use a 2 foot extension from the driver side of the car to get the front diff mount. ***** childs play. Also install a pinion snubber while your at it. takes 10 minutes and saves you the pain of breaking front mounts and tabs.

 

This is good advice. Took me a long time to figure it out on my own.

 

Alright whats the best suspension set up for my 7 my car has coils so said prev owner and a front strut bar but who knows ive i have coilovers or not haha and i know the back tires have slight camber but i don't know how much

 

http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_artic...-your-car.aspx

Dont take this info to heart as an attack against hella flush/stupid low on my part but as a swift kick in the *** to work towards correcting geometry on a slammed vehicle.

The "overcome it" or "I dont ******* care about that ****" attitude is why we have far and few products out there.

No ******* way in **** **** spacing the tie rod down further fixes all that **** being out of wack and i say that because it seems to be the rx7club answer for going super low.....

 

Great article there nopistons, good info in it.

 

Has anyone contemplated on the idea of converting to a T5 transmission? My idea is that one can "pick up the slack" that the stock Mazda RX-7 transmission has; therefore power can be sustained with out unnecessary adjustments to another component. I know that many Track cars have done this conversion with great success, but how would this be in drifting?

 

I would stay away from the t5 its not a good upgrade, they are not very strong. mustang guys brake them all the time. I dont see what is so bad about the t2 trans. I just broke one last weekend after two full seasons of drifting and also taking it to the strip for fun.

 

I think if you're going to go T-5 you might as well just get a T56. I'm far from an expert though

 

so its really hard to find info about drifting the 1st gens. i have an 84 rx7 GSL-SE and id like to have a drift happy car. I will be ordering coil-overs and i can pick the spring rates. So do i want a stiffer spring or a softer softer spring? is there people thats here drifting the first gens?

I am fairly new to drifting and need alot more seat time. The car wont be a strait drifter but would like it to be better for sliding around corners. please help on my spring rates

thanks in advanced, all help will be greatly appreciated

 

400F/250R is a nice spring rate for a dual purpose 1st gen.

 

did my own v-mount... tack welded for now. Im gonna grind down the painted welds and get it TIG welded from a homie. Prolly do some new mount on the intercooler as well as turning the in/out elbow on the Radiator

 

Looks nice. Who makes the intercooler/radiator?

 

koyo radiator

Isuzu NPR intercooler... like a $125

 

Is your radiator going to be ok like that or are you taking it to get tig welded also? Looks good. Thats a NICE core comming from a stock vehicle. Thanks for sharing dude.

The oem evo cores are decent and the volvo ones are super budget (plastic end tanks....i has one chillin) but pretty efficient.
Good, cheap alternatives to going the ebay route. Anything to fight communism.

Edit: Starion cores CAN be good if you mod the end tanks to flow better (no biggie, just make sure your welder isn't a shitty human being and doesn't steal your **** like mine did. *******) but i dunno how they'd fair on a rotary. Probably better than a stock top mount. Worth looking into if you're on a budget. They can be had for $20-100.

 

That isuzu radiator is a great find

 

So out of curiosity, why does no one do a built NA drift car? Like peripheral ported, billet rotors etc...