The Monsterbox 4 Rotor
#203
Mocked front end. Panels haven't been wetsanded or polished yet
Doors and hatch wetsanded / polished and wing mounted. Will show pics later when all panels are finished.
Turn signals are not what are going to be used, I have a set of blacked out signals. Anyone interested in these?
Canards to be installed on front end, side steps, tail light spoiler, and rear wing should finish it off.
An observation: Roll cage is a bit loud, slightly overpowering the roof lines of the car. Once a windshield is installed, and a black tint is placed across the top section of the glass, this should equalize the attraction between body and roll cage.
Painter misplaced the brackets that rivet inside the rear bumper, and bolt it to the chassis, anyone know where to get these?
Thanks for following. Hopefully engine is making progress
Doors and hatch wetsanded / polished and wing mounted. Will show pics later when all panels are finished.
Turn signals are not what are going to be used, I have a set of blacked out signals. Anyone interested in these?
Canards to be installed on front end, side steps, tail light spoiler, and rear wing should finish it off.
An observation: Roll cage is a bit loud, slightly overpowering the roof lines of the car. Once a windshield is installed, and a black tint is placed across the top section of the glass, this should equalize the attraction between body and roll cage.
Painter misplaced the brackets that rivet inside the rear bumper, and bolt it to the chassis, anyone know where to get these?
Thanks for following. Hopefully engine is making progress
Last edited by Monsterbox; 05-02-16 at 09:15 AM.
#207
The storage unit is double sized. That cut out is the back rear. In front of that is a small finished area that was framed and insulated etc for a window unit A/C.
Last edited by Monsterbox; 05-03-16 at 08:54 AM.
#210
I know I know another blurry pic.
Anyhow, the big boy is here. But actually should call it small. Its only the size of a tall-boy beer can, and narrower. Very cool for a pump that can delivery 2000hp of fuel.
So, Howard Coleman gets the credit for this idea. Want to thank him for the recommendation of the new Electronic Regulator system by Fuelab, if it wasn't for that, I'd be doing the classic 3/4x pump setup / staged with pump speed controller like last time.
Well, hoping this minimizes overall risk as one pump seems more reliable than 3x, also less amp draw and less complex plumbing. Hoping this works out and can be an example for future setups.
Pump has a variable speed controller built inside. Run a wire from the speed control output to the electronic fuelab pressure regulator and the regulator will actually auto-adjust the fuel pump speed based upon demand, using only as much frequency as necessary to maintain the fuel pressure set by the regulator. Moreover, the regulator has voltage monitoring output, which will be run into the racepak and the ecu, to act as a failsafe, and show the amount of duty% that the pump is operating. This way, it can be monitored when the pump is nearing its limits, is cavitating, is clogged, etc. For example, since the PWM freq amount is translated to a 0-5v signal, this can be setup as a 0-100% duty gauge. A failsafe can be made based off datalogs. If you know the FPR will demand 40% duty from the pump at WOT in 4th gear at 5500rpm, and you see the pump is demanding 95%, throw an LED on the dash to check fuel pump etc.
The car only needs a -6 return line, even having -10 feed to the engine, as the pump will run so low volume. This eliminates all needs for fuel coolers, external speed controller, hob switches, multiple pumps inside surge tanks, etc.
When running 3x walbro pumps in a surge tank, in addition to the lift pump, the amperage of the feed pumps can reach a total of around 40-50amps at 90psi. The fuelab reduces that current draw to 20amps. This seems like it should take alot of stress off of the electrical system, and less risk for fuel delivery fluctuation as voltage/heat/resistance changes.
I'll post some pics later of the trunk setup. There's a ton going on, and don't want to share it until its perfect.
The only part that worries me is that I've yet to find a single person, anywhere, who runs this pump and regulator design. It did win a SEMA award, but either is so new that no one has tested it yet, or the marketing just hasn't made it out there yet. Overall, the only downsides I can see are one; that the pump fails for some reliability reason. If thats the case, its good that one pump will fail and kill the car rather than having 2-3x pumps, having one fail, loosing half the fuel pressure and blow engine. Two; the regulator can't modulate the speed in time for change in demand of throttle. However, it looks promising.
Anyhow, the big boy is here. But actually should call it small. Its only the size of a tall-boy beer can, and narrower. Very cool for a pump that can delivery 2000hp of fuel.
So, Howard Coleman gets the credit for this idea. Want to thank him for the recommendation of the new Electronic Regulator system by Fuelab, if it wasn't for that, I'd be doing the classic 3/4x pump setup / staged with pump speed controller like last time.
Well, hoping this minimizes overall risk as one pump seems more reliable than 3x, also less amp draw and less complex plumbing. Hoping this works out and can be an example for future setups.
Pump has a variable speed controller built inside. Run a wire from the speed control output to the electronic fuelab pressure regulator and the regulator will actually auto-adjust the fuel pump speed based upon demand, using only as much frequency as necessary to maintain the fuel pressure set by the regulator. Moreover, the regulator has voltage monitoring output, which will be run into the racepak and the ecu, to act as a failsafe, and show the amount of duty% that the pump is operating. This way, it can be monitored when the pump is nearing its limits, is cavitating, is clogged, etc. For example, since the PWM freq amount is translated to a 0-5v signal, this can be setup as a 0-100% duty gauge. A failsafe can be made based off datalogs. If you know the FPR will demand 40% duty from the pump at WOT in 4th gear at 5500rpm, and you see the pump is demanding 95%, throw an LED on the dash to check fuel pump etc.
The car only needs a -6 return line, even having -10 feed to the engine, as the pump will run so low volume. This eliminates all needs for fuel coolers, external speed controller, hob switches, multiple pumps inside surge tanks, etc.
When running 3x walbro pumps in a surge tank, in addition to the lift pump, the amperage of the feed pumps can reach a total of around 40-50amps at 90psi. The fuelab reduces that current draw to 20amps. This seems like it should take alot of stress off of the electrical system, and less risk for fuel delivery fluctuation as voltage/heat/resistance changes.
I'll post some pics later of the trunk setup. There's a ton going on, and don't want to share it until its perfect.
The only part that worries me is that I've yet to find a single person, anywhere, who runs this pump and regulator design. It did win a SEMA award, but either is so new that no one has tested it yet, or the marketing just hasn't made it out there yet. Overall, the only downsides I can see are one; that the pump fails for some reliability reason. If thats the case, its good that one pump will fail and kill the car rather than having 2-3x pumps, having one fail, loosing half the fuel pressure and blow engine. Two; the regulator can't modulate the speed in time for change in demand of throttle. However, it looks promising.
Last edited by Monsterbox; 05-05-16 at 12:36 PM.
#211
Also, if anyone is going to be at Formula D ATL, we'll be there this weekend! Hoping to stop by and see the mad mike 4 rotor and take some pics of that thing, in anticipation of the engine.
-Side skirts are installed, diffuser now painted and ready. Just need to mount rear bumper, diffuser, front canards, and doors, and the body is complete!
While we are still waiting on engine, just decided to push forward and finish all of the fuel system, oil, and intercooler water plumbing (besides the final feed / return lines to and from the block) and get the brakes filled/bled by end of May.
-Side skirts are installed, diffuser now painted and ready. Just need to mount rear bumper, diffuser, front canards, and doors, and the body is complete!
While we are still waiting on engine, just decided to push forward and finish all of the fuel system, oil, and intercooler water plumbing (besides the final feed / return lines to and from the block) and get the brakes filled/bled by end of May.
Last edited by Monsterbox; 05-05-16 at 12:43 PM.
#214
Met up with PPRE at Formula Drift ATL. Also met Mannykiller from forums, also was working with PPRE, great conversation and very knowledgeable guy.
These guys are the real deal. Definitely not worried anymore about the engine; face to face is an entirely different perspective. It seems they have just been extremely overwhelmed with business. After meeting them and putting faces to the names, I'm sure everything will work out soon. Can't wait to see what they come up with. Glad to see that rotary can go this far!
The 4 rotor twin turbo miata is a work of art. Tremendous engineering into this car. It sounds incredible in person. Once exposed to the sound and power of this vehicle, every other car around it just doesn't even come close. Seeing youtube videos and then seeing the real deal in person is just indescribable.
These guys are the real deal. Definitely not worried anymore about the engine; face to face is an entirely different perspective. It seems they have just been extremely overwhelmed with business. After meeting them and putting faces to the names, I'm sure everything will work out soon. Can't wait to see what they come up with. Glad to see that rotary can go this far!
The 4 rotor twin turbo miata is a work of art. Tremendous engineering into this car. It sounds incredible in person. Once exposed to the sound and power of this vehicle, every other car around it just doesn't even come close. Seeing youtube videos and then seeing the real deal in person is just indescribable.
#215
TANKER
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Join Date: Jun 2008
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Just a question on rear end setups...why not do a mini tub setup in the rear? I know it is personal preference, but don't like wide body kits. I don't see any body doing mini tubs with Ford 9" rear ends or J30s or something.
It allows you to keep the stock lines and stuff some big tires in the back...it would be easy for you to do!
It allows you to keep the stock lines and stuff some big tires in the back...it would be easy for you to do!
#216
Just a question on rear end setups...why not do a mini tub setup in the rear? I know it is personal preference, but don't like wide body kits. I don't see any body doing mini tubs with Ford 9" rear ends or J30s or something.
It allows you to keep the stock lines and stuff some big tires in the back...it would be easy for you to do!
It allows you to keep the stock lines and stuff some big tires in the back...it would be easy for you to do!
I personally like the widebody and find the tire size adaquate for the intended use, but def a good idea for future builds etc
#217
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
The other day at a trackday I saw an FD with wide rear fenders that looked great. I couldn't tell whether the stock rear fenders had been pulled to within an inch of their life and then smoothed back so well they almost looked stock, or had some overfenders perfectly blended into the stock body.
Doing a tub just to keep the stock look when a widebody will have more lateral grip seems like a lot of work for a little gain.
Doing a tub just to keep the stock look when a widebody will have more lateral grip seems like a lot of work for a little gain.
#218
Rotary Motoring
iTrader: (9)
Show_off
Just a question on rear end setups...why not do a mini tub setup in the rear? I know it is personal preference, but don't like wide body kits. I don't see any body doing mini tubs with Ford 9" rear ends or J30s or something.
It allows you to keep the stock lines and stuff some big tires in the back...it would be easy for you to do!
Well, excepting drag racers most people like the excellent FD suspension almost as much as the FD looks.
You can tub and straight axle anything.
You can buy complete CF FD bodies if you want to go one step further.
You could keep IRS and mini tub the FD as well.
Coilovers and trailing arms are in the way of wider tire on the inside just as much as the unibody on the FD as you surmised.
You can go to cantilever shocks and aftermarket trailing arms along with unibody mods (mini tub) to gain another ~1.4 inches on the inside with straight rods and even more if you go curved/reinforced.
With a fender roll/pull that would get you to 18x12.5" +60 wheels and 335/30-18s.
#220
Rotary Enthusiast
#221
In my opinion,
if the car is not being used for strict drag racing launches, it isn't absolutely necessary to tub the chassis as I don't believe the width beyond whats on there now will help much.
It appears that longitudinal footprint, stemming from the sidewall height, has a heck of lot more effect than width.
The 20b car ran 255 width, but on a 40 side wall, on a 17. Which is decently thick as compared to most cars on their 18's. Hooked like a monster in 2nd gear, considering it was making 700+ rwhp on a 9" wheel.
if the car is not being used for strict drag racing launches, it isn't absolutely necessary to tub the chassis as I don't believe the width beyond whats on there now will help much.
It appears that longitudinal footprint, stemming from the sidewall height, has a heck of lot more effect than width.
The 20b car ran 255 width, but on a 40 side wall, on a 17. Which is decently thick as compared to most cars on their 18's. Hooked like a monster in 2nd gear, considering it was making 700+ rwhp on a 9" wheel.
Last edited by Monsterbox; 05-10-16 at 11:36 PM.
#223
Update:
All the chassis wiring is finished and test. Battery solenoid kill, both fuse boxes, intercooler water pump, cooler fans, fuel lab pump, lift pump, turns, brake lights, third brake light, driving lights, headlights, brights, and horns all tested and nylon loomed via trigger switches from dash and relay boxes in trunk. Racepak lights up successfully on hot wire test and all switches working nominally.
Officially time to move onto plumbing!
Body guy comes to cut and buff car Thursday. Canards have arrived and will be installed after carbon wrap arrives!
better pics as promised! the red looks faded in these pics, but the red is red lol
as always, thanks for the support guys
All the chassis wiring is finished and test. Battery solenoid kill, both fuse boxes, intercooler water pump, cooler fans, fuel lab pump, lift pump, turns, brake lights, third brake light, driving lights, headlights, brights, and horns all tested and nylon loomed via trigger switches from dash and relay boxes in trunk. Racepak lights up successfully on hot wire test and all switches working nominally.
Officially time to move onto plumbing!
Body guy comes to cut and buff car Thursday. Canards have arrived and will be installed after carbon wrap arrives!
better pics as promised! the red looks faded in these pics, but the red is red lol
as always, thanks for the support guys
#224
Junior Member
iTrader: (2)
Also, if anyone is going to be at Formula D ATL, we'll be there this weekend! Hoping to stop by and see the mad mike 4 rotor and take some pics of that thing, in anticipation of the engine.
-Side skirts are installed, diffuser now painted and ready. Just need to mount rear bumper, diffuser, front canards, and doors, and the body is complete!
While we are still waiting on engine, just decided to push forward and finish all of the fuel system, oil, and intercooler water plumbing (besides the final feed / return lines to and from the block) and get the brakes filled/bled by end of May.
-Side skirts are installed, diffuser now painted and ready. Just need to mount rear bumper, diffuser, front canards, and doors, and the body is complete!
While we are still waiting on engine, just decided to push forward and finish all of the fuel system, oil, and intercooler water plumbing (besides the final feed / return lines to and from the block) and get the brakes filled/bled by end of May.
Mad mike's car was insane. So well done. Anyways, awesome build so far man. Love the black/red theme. Can't wait to see more updates