Thank you guys, this is from earlier in the thread to show what it should look like

 

Would be interested to see how many whp this will put down.

Practicality for the road will go from 60% from the 20b to -10% lol

I don't remember off the top of my head, but are you running 300 series tires?

 

Yea its 305/35/18 so big puppies, and R-compound lol

Honestly, built this thing just for the sound and fun. 20b scared me so bad on street and that I turned it down to 13psi and ran only 600rwhp. The torque and power is rippin' at 600-700 in an FD. Really, the chassis doesn't need much more. So goal is to make as least amount of power as possible for the street, which is 7psi springs so I'm thinking that should be around 800 LMAO. Just looking for a rotary that can make that kinda power on low boost / low risk / pump gas with lots of low-end *****, nice and efficiently, with a good AFR / and running cool. Will maybe try out stronger springs on dyno and run 15psi for kicks.

 

Can't wait for the fire up video!!!

 

Thank you we can't wait here either!

 

How long you thinking of keeping this one before selling it?

I don't even think it's feasible to drive this thing as a daily, weekly, weekendly (not sure if that is a word hahah) Let alone anything except on a track.

When this hits boost you'll lose 1/4 tank of gas :-D

 

dude you aint kiddin,

honestly just want to sit on the couch in the storage unit, crank it up and sit back and relax while listening to the brapage. #brap artist

haha this one is alot of work, bit off a good bit this time, so definitely want to enjoy it first but, If the right offer was made I would sell it to build the next one

4 Rotor Turbo SLC

 

On a slight side note. What wheel tyre combo/ offsets you running up front? Have you had to cut of any of the arch liner tabs for tyre clearance? I have +25front fenders with 8x10 ET0 and 215 45 18's currently on the front and the tyre catches the liner tab at the rear as you turn at about half lock? Tyre profile is a touch big but shouldn't make so much difference? Maybe the offset is a bit low.. But it seems to sit fine in the arch. Yours look super meaty hence I ask!
Cheers
Lee

 

Is that SLC a US kit car? Looks very nice. Similar to an Ultima which you can get here in the UK. But looks more like a proper McLaren or LMP race car. Like it!

 

^That SL-C is my dream project as well but my 4 rotor would stay NA. Putting a 4 rotor in that thing is gonna be a bitch after seeing how tight a 20b was in that SL-C that was at Sevenstock last year. The rear transaxle was pushed back because of the 20b's length so the axles were angled forward. You may have to go with a 12A version of the engine.

 

Leroy,
you run 215 tires on a 10" wide rim? Wtf is the point of having a 10" wide rim lol. I run 45s on a 8" wide rim on my Subaru lol.


Ok back on topic, what's the eta to get this running?

 

That was my thought too!

 

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Mazzei_Formula

 

Is the pressure drop across a intercooler core in the intake less than a conventional front mount, in this case? I suspect so, since you have one inlet and four outlets, basically.

This is honestly the first time I have seen an intake mounted core in a turbo application. Usually only the supercharger crowd does this.

Last question, do you know if they did velocity stacks inside the plenum, or are the entrances to the rotor housings just smoothed over?

 

Lol.. Type error.. 18x8.. God knows what I was thinking. It's not the final wheel tyre setup anyway but was supposed to get me going. Looking today I think the offset is the issue. But back to the topic. I am keen to see how the charge cooler works among other things!

 

I'll just restate what I did previously lol.

This thing is going to be horrible driving on the street and is likely only going to be feasibly and now safely driven on the track lol.

I think there was a huge discussion about why having a roll cage in a street driven car is not the brightest idea. :p

So my 5 reasons why this would not be a good car for the street.
1) 3/4 mpg
2) roll cage
3) what happens if you get rear ended?
4) 3/4 mpg
And last but not least
5) 3/4 mpg :-D

I'm just being cheap I guess. Lol

But other than all my negatives (and being "that guy") I'm thinking this will be an amazing build.

Did you say what your exhaust system is going to be?

I totally forgot or just overlooked it.

I know for my 20b I'm using a 4" exhaust. Was curious what the recs or ideal sizing for the exhaust would be on a 4-rotor.

 

Battleships aren't meant to be comfortable or safe. I like battleships.

4" dp to e-cut out to magnaflow resonator then straight out the back. Mild steel. Wrapped w/ fiberglass titanium wrap. Best sounding exhaust will likely be thick mild steel. I did like the look of the titanium blast pipes on last car but way overpriced, kinda makes a raspy tone, and people copied me around town hehe, the vendor also scammed people.

 

Time for everyone to step up there game lol I cant wait to here it on the dyno. Its ganna scream!!

 

Ok I have to make another gas comment.

I think it would be awesome if you bought a Prius. Then you'd have the "best" mpg car and worst.

Hahahaha ok I'll be done with the gas comments.

Well...Until you find out how many mpg you actually will get.

 

We are going to measure this car in feet per gallon. We'll bring along a tanker just in-case the fighter jet needs a re-fuel.

 

Hahahaha hahahahaah :-D

 

Doesn't that guy in Japan drives his 4 rotor on the street? If he can do it on busy narrow Asia street then I'm sure it'll be fine here, plus mpg is overrated lol.

 

The Scoot 4 rotor is NA though, this engine will be pushing just a tiny bit more power.

 

Congrats on getting the engine, that in itself is an achievement!

Did the water housing came with the engine? Does it have a provision for the water sensor?

 

It should be considerably less pressure drop. There are 1/8npt bungs pre and post inter cooler on the manifold which will house air temp sensors to the ECU. The ECU will also use the internal MAP sensor on the post intercooler side of the engine and an external GM map sensor on the pre-intercooler side. So we will have definitive results for efficiency and pressure drop

I do not know the internal construction to that detail, but may borrow a scope and look inside.

4 channel EGT will be utilized, sensor on each exhaust runner, and the ECU allows trimming of each injector, independent for one-another so we will be able to tune according to air-flow if any of the rotors should show airflow bias due to intake anomalies.