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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 02:47 PM
  #601  
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Originally Posted by Monsterbox
Dude... you SERIOUSLY need to sell those hats!

1. RCCAZ 1
2.
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4.
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6.
7.

LOL... sorry for the double post
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 02:54 PM
  #602  
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Rock on, ill get some made lets do this!
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 03:04 PM
  #603  
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Originally Posted by Monsterbox
Hasnt been decided yet. It would be nice to have PPRE tune it when they are in the states for next Formula Drift season. Or possibly Nelson Siverio here. Need someone who understands how to tune in 4D with alpha-n and boost compensation, so that we can use TPS for load sensing in cruising, and refer to the MAP sensor for load sensing under boost only. That way the pport can be tuned more precisely, as standard map based tuning will have very low vaccuum signal.
Never heard of alpha-n before but upon searching it seems really really interesting. I'll definitely be looking for into this if for no other reason than I want to know and it seems extremely cool. It sounds like you'd need ALOT of dyno time to simulate all of those different situations and from what I can tell there much be more to it than I'm grasping as there doesn't seem to be any reference to it in the haltech 2500 manual.

Either way, sounds awesome.

-Skeese
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 03:06 PM
  #604  
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Originally Posted by Monsterbox
If additional cooling is necessary a secondary shorter radiator will be fabricated in front of this radiator and ran in series w/ 16an lines from the EWP.
.
I would rethink this option (if it comes down to being required). Plumbing in series increases pressure drop across the heat exchangers, which reduces total system flow. So while you would have more heat exchanger, you would also have less flow, which could prove to be an issue with rotor cooling as the coolig moves towards the rear rotors. Decrease flow enough, and the coolant could very well be boiling by the time it reaches the rear plate.
To increase system cooling, you would aim to increase system flow, or at least reduce decreasing the flow. Plumbing in parallel would also be tricky, since one heat exchanger would be smaller than the other... Trying to match heat rejection across the two would be an effort. Ideally, you would have 2 equal cores, or just one larger one.

It is a common misconception that you need to slow coolant down in order to increase cooling, and "give the coolant time to absorb the heat energy". Cooling capacity increases as flow increases on a closed system.

But... Cross thag bridge when it comes to it.
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 04:43 PM
  #605  
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Originally Posted by scathcart
I would rethink this option (if it comes down to being required). Plumbing in series increases pressure drop across the heat exchangers, which reduces total system flow. So while you would have more heat exchanger, you would also have less flow, which could prove to be an issue with rotor cooling as the coolig moves towards the rear rotors. Decrease flow enough, and the coolant could very well be boiling by the time it reaches the rear plate.
To increase system cooling, you would aim to increase system flow, or at least reduce decreasing the flow. Plumbing in parallel would also be tricky, since one heat exchanger would be smaller than the other... Trying to match heat rejection across the two would be an effort. Ideally, you would have 2 equal cores, or just one larger one.

It is a common misconception that you need to slow coolant down in order to increase cooling, and "give the coolant time to absorb the heat energy". Cooling capacity increases as flow increases on a closed system.

But... Cross thag bridge when it comes to it.


Thank you for your input and concern. Very good pts. The engine is utilizing an ewp150 electric pump. If flow is decreased enough to offset the additional cooler, a secondary inline pump may be considered between the two cores or on the return. There are small inline pumps from companies such a mezziere that move quite a bit at low amps as auxillary pumps

Theres also a good bit of room forward into bumper where a new radiator all together could be fitted. Core support could be removed etc replaced lots of options just want to get running.

Anyhow thanks

Last edited by Monsterbox; Sep 12, 2016 at 07:19 PM.
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 06:17 PM
  #606  
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Aren't the stock radiator sizes -20 and not -16?

I know my xtreme rotoraries EWP came with -20 fittings. My ewp also i purchased -20 ends to weld on.

It may not seem like much, but is the -16 truly adequate for the setup?
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 06:59 PM
  #607  
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Who knows who cares

Maybe it is maybe it isnt lets fire up the storage unit built 26b racecar and see at this pt, brapping is goal #1. If it gets hot we can build a radiator the size of texas and a water pump from a nuclear submarine.

Considering the ewp max inlet and outlets are 16an, and PPRE suggested 16an, id say its sufficent
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 08:03 PM
  #608  
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awesome job

keep it up and long live the rotary engine. i have been planing on starting the 4 rotor conversion so hopefully someday i will get it going. Certainly your progress is getting me excited to start mine.
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 08:10 PM
  #609  
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love that hat lol

" at this pt, brapping is goal #1."

I couldn't agree with you more. Run the car first then work out small kinks.

I'm guilty of it myself. I overengineer and overthink everything. It's hard to move forward at times. I've had my engine sitting in my living room. I mounted a/c compressor to cool fuel before going into the rail. AC compressor will be engaged only when TCS is on OR when accelerator pedal is not applied. After playing with it for weeks, I just need to get it back on the car to run it then work out the details later lol.
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 08:17 PM
  #610  
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Originally Posted by Broke_A_Baller
Aren't the stock radiator sizes -20 and not -16?

I know my xtreme rotoraries EWP came with -20 fittings. My ewp also i purchased -20 ends to weld on.

It may not seem like much, but is the -16 truly adequate for the setup?
Pressure drop across the water lines, considering their short length, is usually too low to easily measure at peak flow at the flow rates we operate at.
I don't see the line size being an issue.
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 08:23 PM
  #611  
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Originally Posted by Monsterbox
Who knows who cares

Maybe it is maybe it isnt lets fire up the storage unit built 26b racecar and see at this pt, brapping is goal #1. If it gets hot we can build a radiator the size of texas and a water pump from a nuclear submarine.

Considering the ewp max inlet and outlets are 16an, and PPRE suggested 16an, id say its sufficent
I agree, that's why i said (if it comes down to being required). There are too many variables to determine now if it will be sufficient or not at this point. I just wanted to try to point your "what if" in the right direction.
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 11:06 PM
  #612  
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Thank you guys for the consistent following and commentary.

Many times, the internet is disappointing in that text-language can take on so many different inflections/tones in one verbage and I can only hope that you guys can feel that its all excitement here!

I appreciate everyone's words and suggestions/feedback. This has been alot of hours and work and at this point it scares me to even consider driving this thing! But, I tell ya what, its become a roller-coaster of emotions that ultimately always end up with love for the rotary.

Glad that there's people to relate the obsession with; the normal world thinks of us rotards as a bunch of hermits; we can't exactly explain why we obsess over the triangle machinery, why we put ourselves through the ambiguous world of witchcraft engines, but we know in the end its rewarding to hear them run!

Last edited by Monsterbox; Sep 12, 2016 at 11:17 PM.
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 11:11 PM
  #613  
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Originally Posted by scathcart
I agree, that's why i said (if it comes down to being required). There are too many variables to determine now if it will be sufficient or not at this point. I just wanted to try to point your "what if" in the right direction.
your points are well taken, and will be certain to know where to look first and how to approach cooling methodology if things get hot!
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 11:12 PM
  #614  
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Originally Posted by RZMotorsports
keep it up and long live the rotary engine. i have been planing on starting the 4 rotor conversion so hopefully someday i will get it going. Certainly your progress is getting me excited to start mine.
Hey man, I watched your vids and 1bad20b's a thousand and one times. If it wasn't for you guys, rotary wouldn't be where it is. Looking forward to seeing your "tranzilla" in action as well.
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Old Sep 12, 2016 | 11:15 PM
  #615  
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Originally Posted by stickmantijuana
love that hat lol

" at this pt, brapping is goal #1."

I couldn't agree with you more. Run the car first then work out small kinks.

I'm guilty of it myself. I overengineer and overthink everything. It's hard to move forward at times. I've had my engine sitting in my living room. I mounted a/c compressor to cool fuel before going into the rail. AC compressor will be engaged only when TCS is on OR when accelerator pedal is not applied. After playing with it for weeks, I just need to get it back on the car to run it then work out the details later lol.
A wholleee lotta sacrifice just to get one of these weird things down the road, as compared to a GTR, supra. Why do we do it? Because the experimenting and the pitfalls make it that much more rewarding. Confident you'll get her up again soon. Did you ever work out a transmission solution? I think you hold the record for the most broken transmission via 20b of all time haha, so that mean you were doing it right, big powa!

Last edited by Monsterbox; Sep 12, 2016 at 11:18 PM.
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 09:34 AM
  #616  
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Originally Posted by Monsterbox
Why do we do it? Because the experimenting and the pitfalls make it that much more rewarding.
I thought we did this because the fd is a cute car?

Ok, now I totally gotta rethink my build strategy. Hahahaha
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 09:40 AM
  #617  
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Originally Posted by Broke_A_Baller
I thought we did this because the fd is a cute car?

Ok, now I totally gotta rethink my build strategy. Hahahaha
i thought i just hated money lol builds looking amazing brother
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 10:39 AM
  #618  
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 10:58 AM
  #619  
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Originally Posted by Monsterbox
hey thats a great idea for N/A!

Thanks for offer

Yea been reading up on this. A great guy Zebbi from NZ in here was telling me about how he tunes GTR's with ITB's on TPS as reference for all RPM points in vaccuum for fueling, using MAP sensor only for boost compensation and MAP sensor for Timing. Same should be applied for a low vaccuum engine, super large throttle body, etc
It's funny, i thought you had done your research on what the turbo PP guys typically do..
but i guess a GTR with ITBs has the same problems a turbo PP does.
luck with your stuff, i work at a dynoshop and do tuning, have you decided on ecu yet?
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 11:55 AM
  #620  
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Originally Posted by lastphaseofthis
It's funny, i thought you had done your research on what the turbo PP guys typically do..
but i guess a GTR with ITBs has the same problems a turbo PP does.
luck with your stuff, i work at a dynoshop and do tuning, have you decided on ecu yet?
There's really not much to research, can't find too many pport turbo guys out there, so "typical" sounds funny haha sometimes gotta just pave the way, take risks and make things work.

Haltech 2500 installed and harness / ignition etc all finished and ready to go

Where are you located?

Last edited by Monsterbox; Sep 13, 2016 at 11:59 AM.
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Old Sep 13, 2016 | 12:46 PM
  #621  
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You can put me on the hat list.
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Old Sep 14, 2016 | 08:36 AM
  #622  
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Made spark plug wires last night.

Brap city, brap brap city.

#Make America Brap Again

Mazzei_Formula on IG



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Old Sep 14, 2016 | 04:22 PM
  #623  
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Originally Posted by RCCAZ 1
Dude... you SERIOUSLY need to sell those hats!
Originally Posted by t-von
You can put me on the hat list.
Originally Posted by Monsterbox
#Make America Brap Again
1. RCCAZ 1
2. t-von
3. Narfle
4.
5.
6.
7.
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Old Sep 14, 2016 | 05:11 PM
  #624  
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agree

Bravo!

Remember people fear what they dont understand!

Originally Posted by Monsterbox
Thank you guys for the consistent following and commentary.

Many times, the internet is disappointing in that text-language can take on so many different inflections/tones in one verbage and I can only hope that you guys can feel that its all excitement here!

I appreciate everyone's words and suggestions/feedback. This has been alot of hours and work and at this point it scares me to even consider driving this thing! But, I tell ya what, its become a roller-coaster of emotions that ultimately always end up with love for the rotary.

Glad that there's people to relate the obsession with; the normal world thinks of us rotards as a bunch of hermits; we can't exactly explain why we obsess over the triangle machinery, why we put ourselves through the ambiguous world of witchcraft engines, but we know in the end its rewarding to hear them run!
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Old Sep 14, 2016 | 05:21 PM
  #625  
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Here are a couple of pics of most of the kit together

Here I included some of the pics of the kit so far hopefully it should be completed soon. Seriously thinking of start to order the 4 rotor kit and get my people working on it. Working with some of my contacts to start offering rotor lighting, and all cnc machine things that can be done to rotors and also perhaps start working on billet side plates including 20b center plate.

Originally Posted by Monsterbox
Hey man, I watched your vids and 1bad20b's a thousand and one times. If it wasn't for you guys, rotary wouldn't be where it is. Looking forward to seeing your "tranzilla" in action as well.
Attached Thumbnails The Monsterbox 4 Rotor-image.jpeg  
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