Jatt

iTrader: (2)

Those cherry blossoms had me thinking you were in Japan instead of BC for a minute lol. Drive looks excellent

Redbul

iTrader: (26)

I see you bought the Ohlins already, so nevermind.

rotaryextreme

iTrader: (2)

classic look from the 90's !!!!

Jatt

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Thanks brother. I'm likely going to sell these when I can either:

a) Afford/find proper fitment Volk ZE40's in gold


b) Find Enkei NT03+m's in Gold



The fitment I'm going to copy is going to be 18 X 9.5 front and 18 X10.5 rear. 255s front, 295s rear.

On my current wheels, if I can't find the NT03+m's in gold and proper fitment, I will just change the rear tire to a bigger 295 on current rims and go 25" front and rear. This was an amazing read for anyone who hasn't already read it:

SUSPENSION

rotaryextreme

iTrader: (2)

B. all the way !!!!!!


Enkei NT03+m's in Gold

Jatt

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Stock Injector rebuilding:
[[ 2 O-Rings ( 1 small NF01-13-ZG3 and 1 large NF01-13-ZG4)
1 O-Ring Diffuser (9954-10-1252)
1 Injector Grommet (just as Ray, he will know)
1 Injector insulator (the primaries and secondaries are different, so 2 NF01-13-257A, and 2 N3A1-13-257.
1 pintle cap (if needed, at mazdatrix.com)
-----
Windshield, rear window and sunroof window rubber gaskets
----

Posting this here for myself, need to email Ray Crowe for some parts and want to make sure I have them all. Easier to refer to this thread and my posts and update as needed, rather than think about it and forget about things.

Maybe if I can find some in the right sizing. Not going to do it for a while though because my main goal now is just getting the car reliable and on the road. Itching for seat time so badly right now.

ZacMan

I've just ordered a couple of o-ring and pintle kits from injector-rehab.com. Diffusers and grommets coming from Mazda though. The diffusers are a bit expensive, but gotta have em :-/.

Jatt

iTrader: (2)

Technically I can get away with doing a complete rehaul of my stock injectors with:

(x2) https://injector-rehab.com/product/r...ary-550cc-kit/
(x2) https://injector-rehab.com/product/r...ary-850cc-kit/
(x2) https://injector-rehab.com/product/m...e-feed-filter/
(x1) https://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/9...Kit-ARE79.html

Correct?

If so, going to order it tonight. The secondaries will be bored out to 1300cc after being rebuilt.

ZacMan

I've never found a source for replacement inlet filters on the primary injectors, so they'll just get cleaned and left in place I presume?
The primary injector kit looks to include upper and lower o-rings, and pintle cap.
Secondary injector kit looks to include upper and lower o-rings, pintle cap and replacement filter. No need to purchase the filter separately?
Their website seems to be totally screwed up too, it was fine when I ordered stuff the other day, anyone else finding it skrewy?

So it's just the mounting grommets / o-rings you need from Mazda.

Jatt

iTrader: (2)

You have to click advanced and click proceed despite being 'unsafe'. The website is kind of messed up for sure.

So the two kits from injector-rehab and this kit below with the o-rings and grommets? 150~ USD for a complete rehaul

ZacMan

Yeap, you'll have some spares left over, that kit from Atkins includes the injector upper and lower o-rings, which are also in the injector rehab kits.

If I was you, I'd get the four kits from injector rehab (2 x primary, 2 x secondary), and then 2 x NF01-13-257A and 2 x N3A1-13-257 mounting grommets from mazda / atkins. That will get you all the o-rings, replacement pintle caps, and replacement filters for the secondary injectors.

For a complete injector overhaul, you'll want to inspect your injector diffusers as-well and make sure they're in good shape. Removing them safely really involves removing the LIM in my experience, which is a biiiiig job. So maybe just shine a torch down there and make sure they're in one piece still.

Jatt

iTrader: (2)

May just end up buying them just to have in case I do need to. Thanks a lot.

I literally just ordered the kit from atkins minutes before your post, I sent them an email and hopefully I can cancel it and just order the parts you mentioned, plus the diffusers as well as I will replace them if they need to be.

Jatt

iTrader: (2)

Okay, so my builder has been terrible at communicating and said he'd reach out after he was done with his two current projects he had about 2~ months ago, and I just saw one of his insta posts about how he separated from the shop he was associated with and is opening up a new one. Happy for him since he does good work, but I am unsure if he'd be able to start projects anytime soon as it seems like he's going to be starting fresh setting up a new shop. Combined with inspiration from RotaryExtreme's thread and Dale Clark's posts making the task of wrenching on the FD seem a little bit less daunting I am seriously considering doing this entire thing on my own.

For the next couple nights at work, i am going to be compiling a mental plan and hyperlinked tutorials to get a mental gauge of what it will take to completely build this FD on my own. I have almost all my parts minus an ECU, harness and the SBG fuel line harness P&P harness. I would just need the PineappleRacing Engine mount and all the tools+equipment needed to pull an engine. When my builder came over a couple months ago to check my FD's compression he said it was about 100-100 on both rotors. I have a suspicion that my fuel pump, fuel lines or something electrical is amiss since my idle has gotten progressively more "choppy" but is still quite smooth, especially when i have driven it around briefly. This may be an electrical thing that can be fixed with a new OEM harness. I will likely go with a Power FC and a brand new OEM harness (or a slightly used one in good condition), since I will likely stay TwinTurbo sequential for the long haul, and wen my 99spec twin turbos wear out, I will do a BNR build.

Not going to lie, I am a complete novice and have never wrenched on a car in my life and I only have conceptual basic knowledge, but if I do this and can organize a game play I know I will be able to do this. To do all this, since I will likely need to remove the engine (because of change the Twin Turbos, simplified sequential vacuum lines, new harness, other wiring), do you guys think it'd be worth if I just rebuild the engine as well and get my FD street ported while it's out and apart?

My game plan as follows:

Parts and Labor as follows:
-Removing the Engine
-Removal, rebuild and installation: FSM C-14 to C-111
-Greddy V Mount Greddy V-Mount English Translations
-SBG 25 row Kraken 99 spec mount dual oil cooler kit with nylon lines
-Aeromotive stealth 340 fuel pump How To: My Variation of the Fuel Pump Rewire
-May buy this instead of having to purchase parts to do the fuel pump rewire SBG Plug&Play Fuel Pump Relay Harness
-ACT S/S clutch ACT Prolite flywheel w counter weight Clutch+Flywheel install
-Simplified Sequential + New Vacuum Lines Simplified Sequential - Dale Clark
-Installing new popup headlights ?
-Installing new oem hood
-IG1A smart coils AEM harness install
-NGK premium spark plugs
-X-Series Wideband AFR Sensor
-Stainless Steel Brake Lines+Clutch Lines
-Billet Aluminum filler neck AST delete from Banzai-Racing
-B&M Style Short Shifter w/bushings from Banzai-Racing
-Rebuild Injectors + source them being bored(inspect injector diffusers) Rebuilding Injectors
-New fuel lines (Can someone please advise me on whether I should upgrade to AN6 fuel lines on stock injectors and rails? I also can't remember the safety mod that prevents engine fires on stock FD's)
-Harness - going to need to buy this from Ray Crowe and figure out how to install the new harness
-New Apexi Power FC, and learn how to install this

rotaryextreme

iTrader: (2)

Jatt,

Thanks for the mention!!!
I have some questions. I would also like to make some comments.
My comments are more like notes, I hope other people will chime in too.
My comments are assuming you will still seq twin turbo - BNR included.
Also - once you wrench on your FD, you will never need another mechanic for any of your other cars..lol

Don't fall down the Rabbit Hole.

Parts and Labor as follows:

-Removing the Engine If your engine and clutch is fine - can we leave it alone to work out all the bugs you think you might have? You do not have to remove the engine for anything other then rebuilding it.

-Removal, rebuild and installation: FSM C-14 to C-111 - There are shortcuts to do things - more research.

-Greddy V Mount Greddy V-Mount English Translations Install, but pull the piping to the intercooler because when you take off the tranny to do a clutch job the engine will want to lean forward putting pressure on your upper radiator support and IC hoses. Or you can leave the piping on to hold the engine back to line up the transmission easier when it goes back on. Just be aware of the pivot the engine does when the tranny is off.

-SBG 25 row Kraken 99 spec mount dual oil cooler kit with nylon lines - do this when you install your vmount so you can make sure oil cooler lines and the vm kit have the right bracket set-up to prevent line interference / rubbing.

-Aeromotive stealth 340 fuel pump How To: My Variation of the Fuel Pump Rewire I just bought a CJ motorsports fuel pump relay kit and wired it for the fuel pump - saved a ton off cash and you can lift the left side rear interior panel and disconnect the harness from the relay to stop the fuel pump for trouble shooting.

-May buy this instead of having to purchase parts to do the fuel pump rewire SBG Plug&Play Fuel Pump Relay Harness look at the cj motorsport fuel pump relay - easy to do - save some cash.

-ACT S/S clutch ACT Prolite flywheel w counter weight Clutch+Flywheel install - light weight flywheels are great for track, DD the regular flywheel is better.

-Simplified Sequential + New Vacuum Lines Simplified Sequential - Dale Clark - awesome

-Installing new popup headlights ? - Curious, new ones why are different style pop up lights.

-Installing new oem hood - used is ok

-IG1A smart coils AEM harness install - MAKE SURE YOU HOOK IT UP RIGHT IN THE CORRECT ORDER !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
MAKE SURE YOU HOOK IT UP RIGHT IN THE CORRECT ORDER !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
MAKE SURE YOU HOOK IT UP RIGHT IN THE CORRECT ORDER !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
MAKE SURE YOU HOOK IT UP RIGHT IN THE CORRECT ORDER !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
MAKE SURE YOU HOOK IT UP RIGHT IN THE CORRECT ORDER !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
MAKE SURE YOU HOOK IT UP RIGHT IN THE CORRECT ORDER !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
MAKE SURE YOU HOOK IT UP RIGHT IN THE CORRECT ORDER !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
MAKE SURE YOU HOOK IT UP RIGHT IN THE CORRECT ORDER !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I would recommend the frame rail kit if you really want to get it that way you can keep your cruise control in the stock location.

Seriously - I think its overkill, we will not make enough power to use the benefits of the IGN-1A kit. The HKS twin power with new stock coils. Just relocate the coils so they do not heat soak. The Twin Power and stock coils are solid. You can make your own spark plug wires. I would definitely just relocate the stock coils to the frame rail at least. If you put it in the Cruise control location you will loose that feature or try to relocate your CC like I did.

-NGK premium spark plugs - You can use 4 OEM trailing's. The good ones like factory are better.

-X-Series Wideband AFR Sensor - Gauges - you can see I love gauges. Make sure you wire so you can use it for your future datalogit

-Stainless Steel Brake Lines+Clutch Lines - good time to flush the system.

-Billet Aluminum filler neck AST delete from Banzai-Racing - cool

-B&M Style Short Shifter w/bushings from Banzai-Racing - I have it. - its very notchy but precise. Make sure you fill the cavity that the shifter goes into.

-Rebuild Injectors + source them being bored(inspect injector diffusers) Rebuilding Injectors Save yourself the hassle, send them off to RC Engineering for cleaning.

-New fuel lines (Can someone please advise me on whether I should upgrade to AN6 fuel lines on stock injectors and rails? I also can't remember the safety mod that prevents engine fires on stock FD's)
Banzai has the how to on modifying the stock pri fuel rail to prevent a fuel issue. I would atleast modify the sec fuel rail with inj and a FPD like from CJ motorsports.

-Harness - going to need to buy this from Ray Crowe and figure out how to install the new harness - good used is cool - but new you got another 25 years - don't modify it.

-New Apexi Power FC, and learn how to install this - please get a datalogit and FC Tweak and join the google drive tuning. - that will be best money spent. (I would join the google drive like NOW, because it will help you with decisions, that alone will save you tons of money)

These are just my personal opinions on what worked for me, we all have our own recipe.

Ben

rotaryextreme

iTrader: (2)

p.s.

The Banzai transmission brace helps brace the drive train - your sifter will no longer bounce up and down.

I replaced the hard poly mount with a softer rubber piece - I do not notice any drivetrain vibration.

Jatt

iTrader: (2)

Yes I’ll be running sequential and won’t ever go non-sequential. If I ever get to that point I’d go single, but all plans are to stay sequential.

I actually have all the parts listed. The hood I have used and the popup headlights I bought from a forum member on a road trip to San Diego when I first bought the FD, currently have FEED replica non-pop ups.

My current clutch is complete ****, I listed it in the original post somewhere so it needs to go. Will I be able to do all this and switch out the clutch and flywheel without having to pull the engine? If so that’d be awesome and make life a ton easier. I’ll get that diff brace and look into the fuel harness as well.

I bought the smart coils LHD kit from SBG, does that have all the mounting materials I need, and would I still need to relocate the CC? My engine builder recommended the smart coils after I was thinking of the HKS twin power.

Thanks for the advice on the transmission. I’m going to need to do more reading on hoisting then transmission to work on the clutch and will keep in mind to disconnect the IC/rad piping when disconnecting the trannie. Will also research before I install the coils to make sure it’s in the right order.

This is super daunting and I’m still nervous about getting into it but I feel a lot better than I did before about it now. Thanks a lot brother


edit- when I go over bumps on both Megan racing coilovers and on the current Ohlins I have a big racket coming from the back of the car. My engine builder also noticed it when he came to do the compression test months ago. Forgot what he thought it was but I’m thinking it had something to do with bushings.

edit- Will I need to pull the engine to replace my twins with the 99 spec bolt ons?

rotaryextreme

iTrader: (2)

Pics to help out

fuel pump parts I got - https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread.../#post12453133

fuel sender cleaned Day 85 part 4- https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread.../#post12482960

fuel pump hose day 72 part 3 - https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread.../#post12470307

For the fuel pump side of things

this is what worked for me - just another recipe

garage alpha in tank fuel baffle
RP high flow fuel pump
CJ Motorsports fuel pump relay harness
clean the fuel sender circuit board
Fuel pump hose upgraded - make sure to use high pressure fuel injection hose for submersible use
as Dale says - please use the correct fuel injection clamps as well.


I searched and found alot of issues with the fuel pump oring failing - I cut out the connection and just put a hose between the fuel pump outlet and the pick up tube.

rotaryextreme

iTrader: (2)

Yes I’ll be running sequential and won’t ever go non-sequential. If I ever get to that point I’d go single, but all plans are to stay sequential.

Ahh i checked your thread out - forgot about all the stuff you bought

I actually have all the parts listed. The hood I have used and the popup headlights I bought from a forum member on a road trip to San Diego when I first bought the FD, currently have FEED replica non-pop ups. - RE amemiya or Feed replica? Its personal tatse - I love pop ups. Stock pop up with a good HID kit for non projector lights work great. My kit is designed to be used without a projector and the lighting is great. 100 vs 800 - 1k.

My current clutch is complete ****, I listed it in the original post somewhere so it needs to go. Will I be able to do all this and switch out the clutch and flywheel without having to pull the engine? If so that’d be awesome and make life a ton easier. I’ll get that diff brace and look into the fuel harness as well. - yes I did everything by myself - I used a transmission jack to move the tranny. you have ***** to adjust different angles. Get a really good hydralic jack and big jackstands. you can get the car high enough to roll the tranny out on the jack. if not roll the tranny onto a low dolly to get it out.

I bought the smart coils LHD kit from SBG, does that have all the mounting materials I need, and would I still need to relocate the CC? My engine builder recommended the smart coils after I was thinking of the HKS twin power. - IGN-1A is awesome but it is finicky to set-up. I think its great above 400whp but below that stock coils and TWIN power are cool. You can ask SBG for the frame rail mount so you can keep your cruise control, you will also need shorter sparkplugs. If you have not touched your kit maybe they can swap those pieces for you. - or you will loose cruise control. if you put the sbg in the cruise control location it is possible to re-route your cc to the frame rail like I did - requires alot of time and custom brackets - but it works. I would get the car running and all the bugs worked out before installing the IGN-1A. Its good to do things in steps that way it is easier for trouble shooting. I agree with Dale on not throwing money and parts at something when it will not be used to its full potential or if it really does not need to be replaced. We have to fix the underlying problem before moving onto the next level. In FC Tweak there is an option for the IGN-1A so it is supported. But there is so much going on with tuning and all the bugs need to be worked out before any upgrades are performed. You can save thousands of dollars with some help from friends. Business do want to help you - but they also do it for money - not only to help you out.

Thanks for the advice on the transmission. I’m going to need to do more reading on hoisting then transmission to work on the clutch and will keep in mind to disconnect the IC/rad piping when disconnecting the trannie. Will also research before I install the coils to make sure it’s in the right order. - I think you can leave it all together or take the hoses off. Just remember it will pitch forward making the back of the motor go up. You could use a lift to hold the front engine bracket off loading it so you can pull the tranny straight off the back.

This is super daunting and I’m still nervous about getting into it but I feel a lot better than I did before about it now. Thanks a lot brother


edit- when I go over bumps on both Megan racing coilovers and on the current Ohlins I have a big racket coming from the back of the car. My engine builder also noticed it when he came to do the compression test months ago. Forgot what he thought it was but I’m thinking it had something to do with bushings. - Maybe your diff bushings? Trailing arms or toe link bushings? yeah look into that.

edit- Will I need to pull the engine to replace my twins with the 99 spec bolt ons? - nope

Honestly - the only time the engine comes out is to rebuild it. You can do everything with it in the engine bay. If you need to replace motor mounts and seal the pan, get the harbor freight engine brace to suspend the engine and drop the front subframe.

There is alot of work arounds to get stuff done. You got this bro. I would say invest some of the money burning holes in your pocket into these tools that you can use for all your other cars too. Before you know you will be helping other people out because YOU have all the experience...lol

sorry if my replies are jumbled - at work

other please chime in too, im here to learn as well.

Jatt

iTrader: (2)

Thank you, those pictures are very detailed. The fabrication bit and welding is def something I prob can't do. Is there a kit that would be completely plug and play?

I definitely prefer the pop-ups too, and once they're installed I'll sell whatever ones that currently came with them. They may be RE- headlight replicas, you're right. Your post helps a lot to put everything into perspective, just woke up and will continue to deep dive into this tonight at work. Definitely going to start this on my own, but am going to see if there is a way to do the fuel system and some of the other parts that you had to fabricate, with no fabrication. Preferably if someone sells a mount. I have 7 days off in 2 weeks, so want to have a lot ready for those days off to really get as much as I can done. 5 days off after tomorrow night, but don't know if I'll be able to fully start this week without a solid gameplan.

https://ccfablab.com/product/rx7-fd7...ka-the-7mount/

What do you think of this kit? It's pricey, but I have a nice 99 spec wheel that would allow me to retain cruise control, so it would be worth it to keep it.

EREBUS

Some links that may be useful

Clutch Installation

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...cement-427627/

I personally would definitely use a friend, to not only help you, but also in case something bad happens while you are under the car.
I would also rent a transmission jack and like Ben said, maybe invest in some low profile dollies or something that have open centers. (Harbor freight actually has some decent ones)

If you are removing your differential for the transmission work, that would be a good time to tear apart the rear suspension and control arms to replace any bushings that are worn out back there. If it is clunking on acceleration or braking, it is most likely the pillow-ball bushings or differential bushing that are worn out to the point of being sloppy.

rotaryextreme

iTrader: (2)

I have seen that kit before and it’s nice. I’m sure I saw the frame rail bracket kit on eBay that’s affordable.

Erebus is right… even though I did it by myself there were young adults in the house that would’ve heard me if I scream for help so I wasn’t totally alone lol.

Make sure that whoever installed your sleek light kit did not cut the frame but the pop-up lights bolt to.

time for bed.. nitey nite

Jatt

iTrader: (2)

I'll likely have my dad just be backup to observe if anything goes wrong. Most of my friends locally are lame, and my good friends moved due to military service, other careers or just getting married elsewhere and don't really have any FD or car friends. Nobody really out here that seems tight like that. At least that I know of. That would make a huge difference, but I am confident I can do this, it just is a daunting task.

I will buy the harbor freight transmission jack (the low profile one) and invest in all the proper equipment. I am definitely nervous about the jack stands. From what I had read people said to place them on the pinch welds, and I can prob buy an attachment to prevent further damage to the pinch welds. I know some folks don't use the pinch welds, but I agree with some of the members that these are likely he safest spots for them. Thanks for those links.

The frame doesn't seem to have been messed with so far. I'm getting the upgraded custom solenoid kit soon, and also have the superpro full bushing kit, OEM pillow ball bearings and the Mazdaspeed bushings for the 360 degree angle ones. May source a shop to do this because I'm not sure if I want to purchase a hydraulic press, even if harbor freight sells them cheap.

rotaryextreme

iTrader: (2)

Its easy to take the diff brace off and the suspension pieces.

Im sure you can get a good deal if you do them all at once.

Pmd links on the jack stands (6 ton), transmission jack and floor jack.

rotaryextreme

iTrader: (2)

Thank you Jatt for coming over and checking out the car !!!

Jatt filmed us on a little 7 psi cruise... lol

I'll help with whatever I can, we are all here for you bro.

Jatt

iTrader: (2)

Thanks brother, man yesterday was awesome. Was fun as hell seeing the FD in person, and seeing all the work you put into it. Learned a ton and really appreciate it.