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Simplified Sequential - Diagrams vs. doing the real thing
First of all, I'm aware of the fact, that there are tons of threads on this board regarding simplified sequential. But none of them helped me with my problem today or prepared me for it.
I've been sitting in front of my rats nest today (engine is out of the car for a rebuild), next to it I had this diagram:
At first, I had a really hard time orientating myself. When I finally got my head around it, I noticed 3 problems:
1. The engine was out once before. When I disassembled everything, I marked every hose and the according port with a number. When I looked at the diagram, I got a feeling, that some of the hoses weren't at the right ports, but the engine was running and the car had no real problems. Plus I think I messed up some numbers, so e.g. I have 2 numbers twice (two ports and two hoses), what shouldn't be possible.
2. Since I'm not just replacing the old rubber hoses but doing completely new lines to some ports, I have no idea, how long the silicone hoses have to be until the engine is in the car, or at least until the LIM and UIM are installed. But when they are installed, I can't access the rats nest, so this is a bit of an issue.
3. On this diagram, there is no "Pressure Control valve", I assume its the fuel pressure control valve. Isn't that necessary?
How did you guys do this?
Here is a pictures of my rats nest how it looks now:
How would you start from here? Tearing everything apart and start from scratch just following the diagram? I'm a little bit unsure with this option, because I wouldn't have a backupplan (going back to the original state, at least the car was running that way).
Also, I found another diagram, which is this:
So which is the right one now?
I hope you guys understand what my problem is. Since I'm not a native speaker, I'm a little bit unsure with some expressions. Please let me know when I can give more info.
When I did mine I felt the same way overwhelmed. So what I did was, I said F it and undid all of the old lines and followed the whole vacuum diagram with all new silicon lines and that to me was the best way.
I did the same. Overwhelmed, already too late to back out so I took them all off and redid them with silicone. I did it with the engine in the car and put the solenoids on the rack. That helped me with the lengths. Just follow the diagram and do one line at a time and it's easier than it seems. I didn't reuse none of the rack. I used brass T's to connect the lines, silicone hose, and viton check valves from Dale Clark.
Also, get new solenoids. I tested mine with the instructions in the fsm and baked them to test them. Only 1 solenoid worked. I bought brand new ones, tested them the same way and all worked fine. Car boosted better than ever.
I did mine super ghetto, was missing the rack so my solenoids were just floating, i just cut random lengths to make all of the lines hook up as pictured looked like a ball of spaghetti, but worked just fine
+1 for new solenoids and check valves. no matter how simple it is, if the parts are bad it doesn't do you any good.
The fuel pressure solenoid raises fuel pressure (Cuts vacuum to the regulator) when you hot start. I think fuel temperature needs to be 70C. It's for a smoother idle in some hot start situations.
Really, I never use that diagram, I use the full vacuum diagram. That way you can see the whole system and go through bit by bit and eliminate systems.
Long time ago I put the full vacuum diagram on a thumb drive, took it to Kinko's, had them print it in color on 11x17 paper and laminate it. Cost $6 and is one of the handiest tools I have.
That said, if you're mainly looking to get the emissions-related stuff out of the way, I would take a systematic approach to it. First, get your ACV, EGR, and AWS blocked off. I would probably remove the double throttle as well. Banzai Racing sells a really well made block off plate kit.
That done, go through the solenoid rack and remove the solenoids that are emissions related and you won't need.
Then start plumbing things in. If you have the motor out of a car, I hope you have it on an engine stand, that makes the process way better to do. LIM on, turbos and water pump housing on, put the solenoid rack/rat's nest on and figure out the hookups. If you are replacing an existing hose, use that to measure the new one, if not attach the silicone line to one nipple, run the hose to where it needs to go, and cut to length.
Once that's figured out, remove the assembly and put it all back in place with the wiring.
I don't recommend totally removing the solenoid rack/metal vacuum spider. It really helps for hooking stuff up. With some work and creativity you can remove a lot of the metal lines that aren't needed, many of them are attached with screws and can be removed, worst case cut off or just simply put a vacuum cap on each end to close the system.
Also I don't recommend running the fuel pressure solenoid, many of these diagrams remove it but it's a good system to have in place. It's simple, it's not in the way, and it does its job.
I just realized I messed up the pictures above, I added the same picture twice.. Its corrected now. So what is the difference between them, or which should I use?
@ DaleClark: I also thought about installing the LIM and UIM temporarily, but is there enough room for working on the rats nest? I guess I will find that out in the process.
EDIT: I just read it again and you only state the LIM should be installed. But there is a good amount of ports on the UIM aswell, right? I assume the length to them can be estimated..
Yes, engine is on a stand.
Thanks for all the tips, it's much appreciated!
One last Question: Should all unused ports be capped?
Normally I do most everything without the UIM on, I have a Sakebomb Garage "nut blocker" plate that goes over the LIM ports to keep from dropping crap in.
Once you get the rat's nest all figured out, then set the UIM on and run those lines, it's only like 4 lines or something. Just set the UIM in place and do the lines, if it's in the way you can lift it up.
I would cap everything unused even "dead" lines. That will prevent you or someone else from trying to plug something in to them in the future.
I have a post somewhere about EPDM rubber vacuum caps from McMaster-Carr, they can take the heat and they're dirt cheap. Ones from the parts store will fail in record time.
Big thing is just take your time, work with the diagram, and follow the lines to double-check things. Most of it isn't too bad, it's logical where each line goes, there's only a few that are oddball.
My Problem is, since I'm located in Germany, we do not have those fancy auto parts stores over here.. But I will look into it, maybe I find a different source for them.
McMaster-Carr is a US industrial supply company, they have all sorts of bolts, pipes, fittings, you name it. They may actually ship your way.
That said, there is very likely a German equivalent. Or, some other sort of high temp vacuum caps. EPDM rubber is what I've personally tested and work just fine.
Does anyone have an idea in which quantity what sizes are needed? I have found a shop for silicon caps, but they are 2,34$ per piece...
EDIT:
I will get rid of the following:
- ACV (Air Control Valve)
- ACV Tube (Air Control Valve Tube )
- EGR (not existent due to JDM)
- Split Air Pipe
- AWS (Accellerated Warm-Up System ) -> maybe not existent due to JDM?
- AWS Tube (Accellerated Warm-Up System Tube ) -> maybe not existent due to JDM?
Yep, the AWS and EGR aren't on JDM cars. So, no issues there.
Quantity on caps is hard to say, it depends on what all you remove and how you remove it. A bag of EPDM caps here in the states is only a few bucks, there may be a German equivalent.
I just did this over the past few days. I decided to remove all the metal tubes (top of solenoid frame), and just use silicone and T fittings. Much simpler IMO.
Can someone tell me, what the switching solenoid valve is for? (C on the OEM diagramm) It should be removed according to the simplified sequential diagrams but since it says only switching I would feel better knowing what it does.
By the way, since I asked it myself, I don't think it's a good approach to start from scratch. Up to now, I could take every old hose to meassure the new silicon hose, which is a lot easier than "meassure" the length under the UIM or on the engine.
08-06-17, 03:12 PM
