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Thanks Dale, you continue to help a bunch. Really appreciate it.
Ordered some coolant hoses from SAMCO and will order the 3.5mm and 6mm hoses tonight. Just a question for the general community, is shine auto project the best place to get the 99 spec front bumper?
It comes out to like 3400$ for every part listed above, do I need them all?
Also, where should I purchase a 99 spec rear wing and which side skirt do you guys recommend? I'm trying to get all the parts at hand so all the bodyshop (that I am looking into) has to do is just install. Also gathering as many parts I can for my mechanic for when he finishes the current project he's working on and I can get it to his shop, hopefully soon.
Edit. Updated List:
-Standard mount intercooler: RX7.COM | FD Intercooler$1,198.00
-Efini turbo piping upgrade: RX7.COM | FD Intercooler$379.60
-Koyo Radiator: Radiators (93+ RX-7) (Will require changing the battery location, and hopefully no A/C delete?)
-High flow CAT or a resonated midpipe. Will likely go with the high flow CAT to prevent boost creep. Already have a downpipe I think.
-Good intake for turbos+ensuring it's pulling cool air and not engine hot air - TY @ Dale for that
-Bosch injectors (as opposed to rebuilding the stock ones -Silicone vacuum hoses
-Silicone coolant hose -Boost controller Have one already in the car
-Fuel computer (Not sure if haltec ecu has this) -ACT Street/Strip Clutch 93+ RX-7: https://www.irperformance.com/produc...lutch-93-rx-7/
-Maybe fix a leak in transmission
-Transmission Rebuild Kit RX7T TRANSMISSION REBUILD KIT WITH SYNCHRO RINGS FITS 87-93 MAZDA RX7$348.77 - SAMCO Sport RX7 Turbo FD3S Black Coolant Kit $177
Question: Do I need the Efini Turbo Piping Upgrade Kit if I already bought the SAMCO rx7 black coolant kit?
The Efini y pipe is different than the coolant hoses. You don’t necessarily need the Efini y pipe. It does help with boost leaks but if you’re planning to go single turbo I wouldn’t spend the money on it.
The Efini y pipe is different than the coolant hoses. You don’t necessarily need the Efini y pipe. It does help with boost leaks but if you’re planning to go single turbo I wouldn’t spend the money on it.
Great thanks, yeah eventually will definitely go single turbo so will save some money there.
Also surprised I never posted a pic. The pic is kind of flattering and there are a lot more imperfections in the body and paint, but still love how it looks right now. Will be focusing on the engine and drive train until it's perfected before I take it to a nice body shop to get it squared out.
Jatt - Are you still looking for a stock intercooler duct? I have one with all hardware included. Let me know if interested
The standard mount intercooler mentioned is a waste of money if you plan on going single turbo during your ownership. If you're going to spend money on intercooler, go big or go home.
I swapped the stock intercooler out for a large SMIC and added proper intake filters and WOW! does the car flow better, especially above 4500rpm, its a whole different ball game.
Def will be following most of it, thankful for that.
Originally Posted by RX7nonSEQ
Jatt - Are you still looking for a stock intercooler duct? I have one with all hardware included. Let me know if interested
The standard mount intercooler mentioned is a waste of money if you plan on going single turbo during your ownership. If you're going to spend money on intercooler, go big or go home.
I swapped the stock intercooler out for a large SMIC and added proper intake filters and WOW! does the car flow better, especially above 4500rpm, its a whole different ball game.
Aw man, that's a huge letdown, thought i'd save 2.5k from getting the one I linked above for 1K. Which V mount intercooler should I buy? Is it the $3,450 Greddy one?:
not sure if this has been discussed on this thread yet. Was just looking at your list and saw the tokico/tein setup you were looking at. I had that on my old 95. For about the same price you can get a set of K-sport coilovers or similar. I went with the K-sport and i like that setup much more than the tokico/tein setup I had.
not sure if this has been discussed on this thread yet. Was just looking at your list and saw the tokico/tein setup you were looking at. I had that on my old 95. For about the same price you can get a set of K-sport coilovers or similar. I went with the K-sport and i like that setup much more than the tokico/tein setup I had.
Car looks great
No it hasn’t been discussed yet, thank you I will def go with the K-sport setup instead.
Found a full v mount greddy radiator and inter cooler kit direct from Japan for 2450 but it takes 28-60 days to ship according to their website lol
Edit- If I buy just the Full V Mount Greddy kit with no radiator it's 1600$. Could I combine that with this Koyo radiator very easily?
I highly recommend the GReddy kit, $2450 is a very good price, especially if that’s included shipping as they were only a couple hundred less during that big group buy sale few years ago, just make sure it includes the fan harness.
Ordering it now, thanks guys. Edit - nvm the shipping makes it 3000+ smh. I guess i'll buy it from SakeBomb for the full price when my mechanic is ready to build my engine and pay the 400$ for the expedited delivery since it's just coming from Fremont, CA. Waiting 2+ months from Japan to save 400$ not worth it.
Make sure you call SakeBomb to check stock. A lot of vendors inventory are not exactly as advertised. Not saying SakeBomb does this btw... but it sucks to need a part at a certain time and order an in stock part that’s actually not in stock or In stock in another country.
A buddy of mine is going through this right now with a forum vendor. He bought an “in stock” turbo kit and has been waiting for months. He’s a lot nicer than I am and doesn’t want to speak up about it on the forum. lol
Ordering it now, thanks guys. Edit - nvm the shipping makes it 3000+ smh. I guess i'll buy it from SakeBomb for the full price when my mechanic is ready to build my engine and pay the 400$ for the expedited delivery since it's just coming from Fremont, CA. Waiting 2+ months from Japan to save 400$ not worth it.
Yeah shipping from Japan will get you, and be sure whoever you are ordering it from have very good insurance policy. My V-mount IC was damaged during shipping, good thing I paid the extra to get the no hassle insurance from Nengun, DHL came pick up the IC and they got me a new one in a few weeks, all happened in the winter months so I didn't lose much time either. Another plus to get it from SBG so you don't have to deal with that possibility.
Make sure you call SakeBomb to check stock. A lot of vendors inventory are not exactly as advertised. Not saying SakeBomb does this btw... but it sucks to need a part at a certain time and order an in stock part that’s actually not in stock or In stock in another country.
A buddy of mine is going through this right now with a forum vendor. He bought an “in stock” turbo kit and has been waiting for months. He’s a lot nicer than I am and doesn’t want to speak up about it on the forum. lol
Damn, I definitely would not be happy either. Waiting for months for an "In stock" turbo kit is not okay at all. Really bad business practice, hopefully he gets it soon.
Will do, and take your advice and call ahead of time. Thanks
Originally Posted by ZE Power MX6
Yeah shipping from Japan will get you, and be sure whoever you are ordering it from have very good insurance policy. My V-mount IC was damaged during shipping, good thing I paid the extra to get the no hassle insurance from Nengun, DHL came pick up the IC and they got me a new one in a few weeks, all happened in the winter months so I didn't lose much time either. Another plus to get it from SBG so you don't have to deal with that possibility.
Thanks, will make sure it's insured. 3G's is too much to risk.
We just finished a GReddy kit install along with a Mazda crate motor / battery relocate and engine bay repaint.
The GReddy kit is excellent....everything fits but is not a one-day install
We just finished a GReddy kit install along with a Mazda crate motor / battery relocate and engine bay repaint.
The GReddy kit is excellent....everything fits but is not a one-day install
Badass!! Looks super clean, I am hoping my motor is beyond a rebuild so I am forced to get a fresh crate motor, but won't be mad if I can rebuild it and save a lot of money.
Where did you buy the kit from and how much did it cost?
Ordering it now, thanks guys. Edit - nvm the shipping makes it 3000+ smh. I guess i'll buy it from SakeBomb for the full price when my mechanic is ready to build my engine and pay the 400$ for the expedited delivery since it's just coming from Fremont, CA. Waiting 2+ months from Japan to save 400$ not worth it.
Updated List: -Greddy Full V Mount Intercooler and Radiator Kit $3450 -Bosch injectors (as opposed to rebuilding the stock ones -Silicone vacuum hoses
-Silicone coolant hose -Boost controller Have one already in the car -Fuel computer (Not sure if haltec ecu has this) - SAMCO Sport RX7 Turbo FD3S Black Coolant Kit $177
-Bönez 3" Stainless Steel Performance Converter System Price: $651.90-
-RP Competition Fuel Pump Price:$264.00 -13B Short Block Direct From Mazda. $5,089.97 (Or may rebuild the engine - 2,000-3000$? My mechanic said that he can sell my current engine if I decide to buy a brand new one, which I prefer. Will see depending on condition of current engine when we take apart)
-Haltec ECU $2,000?
So my mechanic came over last week because he was suspicious about the compression numbers that I got when I flew out to see the car in person when I bought it. Turned out the guy likely didn't use a rotary compression tester that the seller chose to use to inspect the car. I got about 100 - 100 per rotor, which is excellent. The twins also seem good so far, there's no leak, but we will be changing out the vacuum lines on the rats nest. Since the engine does not require a rebuild, and the twins seem good I will further heed the advice echoed on this thread and make a reliable 300~ HP build. I started buying parts, but the main things I'm waiting on are finding a good Greddy V Mount Kit right now with the appropriate piping for the Twin Turbo. I have been told it's a easy to switch over to single turbo by removing one of the pipes, but I am not too sure how it will work in the future when I eventually go single turbo in terms of the intake manifold.
I am fully registered and insured in the state of California as of Monday. Super excited to drive it around, but either the rear diff (or likely the clutch) kind of shakes when shifting. Think it's just the clutch and some kinks in the installation, but I will be upgrading to an ACT clutch soon. I have a ACT pressure plate, will likely need to buy a brand new clutch according to my mechanic. Does anyone have any suggestions on brand new clutches that are future proof to ~ 450 HP long term? Hoping my rear diff is good, but I think it's just the clutch. Currently the FD has a Ralco Rz stage 3 clutch, but from what I read from googling, it has an issue where it does rattle/shake the car when reversing or putting into gear. Don't really like this.
Here are the parts I've bought so far, will include body parts first from RX7.com. Spoke to Ari briefly and told him I'd order later, just ordered and left a message and an email and hopefully he'll be able to ship it over soon after processing the order.
Body Parts Bought: 1 Efini JDM Key - 93-95 1 '99 Front Bumper Cover and Reinforcement Bar package 1 99 Mazda Front Lower Lip 1 99 Mazda brake duct set 1 99 Mazda Lower Undertray 1 '99 Bumper Air Guide 1 99 Mazda Front Combo Light Set 1 '99 combination light adapter harness set 1 99 Mazda Emblem - Front 1 99 Mazda Emblem - Rear 1 Efini Badge - Front Black 1 Efini Badge - Rear Black 1 Efini RX-7 Nameplate 1 Mazda RX7 FD3S 99 Spec Spoiler / Type O Center Deck - Fiberglass Upright /w Carbon Deck
Parts I'm working on obtaining:
Rotary Extreme V Mount Kit (Waiting on a response) or a Greddy V Mount Kit. Trying to keep A/C and also be able to easily switch from Twin to Single when I eventually do the switch.
Haltec ECU
New ACT Street clutch (or any other suggestions welcome)
Any other suggestions from forum members that can be considered reliability mods and/or setting up the car for the future?
Also, I bought this car with the intent to repaint this to white (chaste or audi white, something relatively bright and true white), but seeing a completely repainted brand new red is growing on me. Posting just to see if someone can disuade me from repainting the entire car to white. Would remove the entire engine and interior to do this job if I do. I found a guy here locally who can do the job and is quite good imo.
edit: Where can I buy full weather strip/seals for the FD? Mine are all shot and will need new ones. Also in what order do you guys suggest I get a full paint job if I decide to change color (won't be a big deal if i keep the color the same). Once I find a V Mount intercooler for the twins, I will send my car to the shop. I will need to remove the engine and the interior, and may get AAA to send it over to the paint shop until it's done and send it back to the mechanic to get it reassembled. Not sure if this is the best and most cost effective option?
Would do al lot of work on my own, but at least for my first FD, I want it done right and quick the first time so I can enjoy it.
Last edited by Jatt; Jun 23, 2021 at 01:09 PM.
Reason: Asking about paint job + weather seal
The high from receiving OEM genuine Mazda parts in the mail >>. Just got my popup headlights lids and a bracket for the popup headlights that was broken. Going to order every single seal brand new in the next couple days.
Weather strips...I have following
$65 Door all-around (R only )
$30 ea Lower door ( R & L )
$50 ea Door top ( L & R )
$75 Window channel ( R only )
$40 Hood seal
$50 Hatch seal
Weather strips...I have following
$65 Door all-around (R only )
$30 ea Lower door ( R & L )
$50 ea Door top ( L & R )
$75 Window channel ( R only )
$40 Hood seal
$50 Hatch seal
Door weatherstrips (on door)
(on body)
Door drip mouldings (on body)
Door belt line mouldings (on door)
Sun roof weatherstrip
Windshield moulding
Back glass moulding
Do any of the ones you listed overlap with any of these?
Only ones on your list I have are
$65 Right door All-Around
$30ea Door lower R & L
BTW ...it is very hard to find undamaged drip moulds & beltlines.
Your best bet for new is Ray Crowe... crowe.ray@sol.com
i actually emailed him in the morning. I just checked and it looks like the weather strips from the interior of my door panel are in perfect condition. It’s just everything on the outside that looks terrible. Attached some pics. Would I have to still replace these if I do a full repaint sometime next month or so or could the shop reuse the good weather strips?
Also forgot to mention finally ordered the Greddy V Mount last night. Excited to get this build going.
Your weather stripes and exterior trim look really good ( except windshield moulding )....I would clean them up and save $1k +.
WARNING....remove all trim / seals / weather strips and any part that does not need paint YOURSELF....your paint shop will lose and/or break any parts they remove.
