mcfly4001

This if for all the newbies, and ones who have no idea about their car. First of all get a manual for your rx7, but if you are impatient like me, this should help, I would like to thank all the members who have helped me and taught me all I know over the last few months. My car was a mess, and I would never have made it without their help. 6 months ago, I didn’t know how to change the oil on my rx7, but now, im in the process of learning how to rebuild a rotary engine. Do the work yourself on your car, you will save money, and it will be more enjoyable and fulfilling.

Fuel system information:

There are a total of 4 fuel injectors, and 2 fuel rails. Each rail has 2 injectors each in them. They are called, the primary fuel rail and the secondary fuel rail. The primary injectors are 550 cc, and the secondary injectors are 850 cc. Attached to one side of the secondary fuel rail is the fuel pressure regulator (FPR), and attached to the other side is the fuel line. Attached to one side of the primary fuel rail is the fuel pulsation dampener (FPD), and attached to the other side of this rail is the fuel line. Gas from the the fuel pump passes through the fuel filter, onward to the FPD, and enters the primary fuel rail, passes through the other side of the primary fuel rail, enters the gas line, and then enters the secondary fuel rail, and passes through the secondary fuel rail, enters the FPR, (when the gas enters the FPR, the fuel pressure is regulated at approximate 35-42 psi, down from 70-110 psi, in which the fuel pump sends the gas from the fuel tank at this pressure). What gas is not used by then injectors while the engine is running, is sent back to the tank, through the FPR, and then to a return line.

Removal:

First pop the hood.

Remove the hard piping that extends from the throttle body, to the intercooler (4—10mm nuts). Remove the hose attached to the hard piping, near the map sensor.

Next, remove the the two coolant lines attached to the throttle body, one on the top, and one on the bottom of the throttle body. Now remove the wire cable that comes from your gas pedal, that is attached to the throttle body. There will also be a cable for the cruise control unit also. Remove the wire harness from the throttle position sensor (TPS). Now remove the bolts that attach the throttle body to the upper intake manifold (UIM), (4—12 mm nuts). There will be a gasket between the throttle body and UIM, be careful with that.

Next, remove the UIM. On the side closest to the firewall, there are 4 vacuum hoses that need to be removed, and on the side closest to the radiator, there are 4 hoses, 3 vacuum hoses, and 1 line going to the PCV valve. Now, remove the single bolt in top of the UIM (1—12mm). Next remove the nuts holding the UIM in place (4—12mm). Detach ground wire from fire wall. There are 2 solenoid (the wastegate control and the turbo precontrol) mounted to the front of the UIM, remove this (2—10 mm bolts). Do NOT pull the UIM away from the engine yet. There are 3 wire harnesses that go to various sensors (air intake thermosenosr, EGR, and one other sensor, I cant remember right now, ha!) underneath the UIM, disconnect them. Now remove the UIM.

Now you will see 4 holes, once the UIM is removed, where the air is inducted. Put some clean rags down in these holes, to prevent anything from falling down into the block, and damaging a seal or rotor.

Now you will see the secondary fuel rail and the injectors with in the rail attached the lower intake manifold (LIM). It is best to remove the entire fuel rails from the engine bay, to prevent damaging the fuel injectors.

You will have to remove the air control valve (ACV) and various other vacuum hoses to get to the secondary fuel rail. To get to the primary fuel rail (which is attached to the block itself), it is best to remove the entire solenoid rack, (‘the rats nest’) and coil packs

Removal of the secondary fuel rail. Unhook the return line from the FPR. Unhook the fuel line from the other side of the fuel rail (1—17mm banjo bolt). Now unmount the rail by removing the 2—12mm bolts. Pull the rail out.

Removal of the primary fuel rail. Unhook the gas line from the FPD. Now unmount the rail by removing the 2—12mm bolts that attach the rail to the block. Remove the rail and the fuel line with it.

Now remove the injector from the fuel rail. Use vise grips or channel locks, or just a big pair of pliers. Do not pry the injectors out with a flat head screwdriver, the plastic on top of the injectors is fragile, just grip with the pliers and wiggle the injectors back and forth while pulling.

Injector reconditioning:

If injectors appear to be clean and functional, do the following. But it is recommended that you send the injectors off to be cleaned, it’s a wise choice. RC Engineering, http://www.rceng.com/service.htm, is a good choice and I believe they replace your orings while they have them, I could be wrong.

Once the injectors are out, remove the two o-rings from each of the 4 injectors, and the grommets, from each injector.

Remove the old insulators (if any exist) from the injector holes in the engine, these are the rubber items that are in the holes where the injector where removed from the car at.

Remove the old diffusers from the LIM and the engine block, they are underneath the insulators, where the injectors where removed from the car at. Be careful they are some kind of ceramic, and these can be reused. They have an o-ring that will be replaced.

Inspect the pintle caps on the end of each injector for cracks.

Here's what I would replace on each injector (part numbers included, I recommend you call Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda (1-888-533-3400) for parts:

2 O-Rings ( 1 small NF01-13-ZG3 and 1 large NF01-13-ZG4)
1 O-Ring Diffuser (9954-10-1252)
1 Injector Grommet (just as Ray, he will know)
1 Injector insulator (the primaries and secondaries are different, so 2 NF01-13-257A, and 2 N3A1-13-257.
1 pintle cap (if needed, at mazdatrix.com)

Re-assembly:

Place the grommets in position on each injector.

Put o-rings on injectors.

Now you will place the injectors back into the fuel rails. Oil up the injector o-rings, so that they will seat in the fuel rails properly, this is very IMPORTANT! I ruined an o-ring, by cramming it down in the rail.

Put diffuser o-rings on each diffuser, be careful, FRAGILE!

Place insulators in proper position.

Re-install fuel rails.

Re-attach fuel lines.

Check for fuel leaks. Go to the diagnosis box, by the battery, jump the f/p and ground, to engage the fuel pump, and turn the key to the on position. You should hear the gas flowing, and you should smell nothing.

Re-assemble UIM, and all parts taken out.

Things recommended to do while car is still disassembled:

Do a complete hose job, since most of the hoses are taken off, and brittle. (http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/...se_diagram2.jpg).

Replace FPD, if it has not been before, the original ones are fire hazards.

Inspect ACV. See if the springs are releasing properly. They sometimes freeze up due to soot build up.

Add grounds.

Replace fuel lines if needed.

Inspect wires and harnesses, extreme heat make them brittle.

thanks and anyone feel free to add anything.

Rx-7$4$me

this should be sticky or in the vault!!

rxrotary2_7

ok. done.