Anybody here done an FD clutch job themself? I'm considering trying it - doesn't seem too difficult, but then again the FD always manages to surprise me...

Specifically, I need to replace the pilot bearing, but I figured I'd go ahead and replace the whole assembly (clutch, PP, TO bearing) while I'm at it.

So, my main question is, can you leave the motor in the car? It seems like you could just drop the tranny after un-hooking it from the driveshaft and PPF. Anybody done this?

And then what about the pilot bearing? Easy to replace once the trans is separate from the motor?

I'll gladly take any info anybody wants to give me on this...

 

I did one in my driveway last week. It's easy.

Jack the car up high on four jack stands.
Remove the undertray, starter, slave cylinder.
clear the lines, plugs, and wires that are attached to the tranny. Make sure nothing will snag.
Seperate the "pull type" clutch.
Remove mid pipe.
Drain tranny.
remove drive axle form differential.
Support the tranny and diff witha jack.

Remove the power plant frame (large heavy bar)
Remove the shifter form inside the car.
Undo the 5 bolts attached to the engine.
Pull the tranny away form the engine, and lower the jack.

Make sure you take the clutch off and on using a chris cross pattern.
Remeber to fill the tranny with new fluid when you put it back in.

Special tools:
YOu'll need a good 21mm deep socket and large 12'' and 6'' extention.
Youll also need a large rachet (2 feet long) because those 21mm bolts are on there really hard.

If you have nay questions pm and I can help.

 

http://www.fd3s.net/clutch_install.html

and

http://www.davidgeesaman.com - the transmission rebuild job contains some info on dropping and reinstalling the tranny.

It's not easy if you've never dropped a tranny before. If you have, it will probably be familiar except the part about separating the t/o bearing from the clutch (it's a pull-type clutch).

Dave

 

I've done 2 clutches on a honda and probe but this was my first rear wheel drive clutch. I found it easier then front wheel drive cars.

I thought it was rather easy. My back really hurt form the drive way so put a blanket down because you'll spend most of your time lieing down on your back.

Wargasm has a video of how to release the coller on the pull type cluth around here. Just search its somewere. Mine came off really easy.

 

its easy on FR because there is lots of room.

 

It's no different than any other RWD clutch job, save for the pull-type clutch, which isn't that tricky. Give yourself 2 days if you haven't done it before. I can pull one off in a day easily.

Dale

 

Looks like fun. I think I'll try it, and I'll be sure to snap lots of photos in the process...

Thanks for the info everyone!

 

Yeah, clutch jobs are fairly straight forward, I would suggest doing it yourself if you enjoy getting your hands dirty. I will be doing this myself sometime in the next couple weeks... my ACT S/S kit is waiting in the garage.

 

Front drive cars are a total ***** to change out the clutch in

I got a 1994 Achieva as a daily beater a little oever a year ago.. (basically, the oldsmobile version of a cavalier). The clutch was out, but we got it for only $400.

Anywho, you had to take the half shafts out of the transmission, take apart half of the fornt suspsnesion, get a transmission jack, and the bellhousing where the transmission lines up w/ the engine is a total *****.

The Tranny jack shifted and dropped the tranny on him and put him in the hospital from bruised ribs for observation. The second time we changed out the clutch (We all learned to drive a cultch on it so it only lasted a year) we got a mechanic friend to do it on a lift. FF is a total *****.

I still dont like that under-achieva... but then again getting a better daily beater would require a few hundred more I dont wanna spend as long as it drives.

 

Things that come to mind after doing mine:
1. If you want change or remove the flywheel for resurfacing, you'll probably need a BIG impact wrench to break it loose. Something capable of > 450 ft/lbs. with a 52mm (2 1/8") socket
2. I didn't see it mentioned, but you'll need to rent or buy the SST pilot bearing tool, or make your own. I think there are some threads on this.
3. I'd also figure on changing out the clutch fork. From reading other threads, they can fatique and break, especially with an upgraded pressure plate. Since they didn't cost much (~$45 IIRC), and reportedly were upgraded, I did it.
4. Don't forget there are two drains for the transmission fluid.

 

I have done my clutch twice and it was challenging both times. I have heard the not running the car for 12 hrs before you remove the down pipe nuts are very important. It reduces the chance of snapping the studs. I found the most difficult portion of the job is removing an reintstalling the stock down pipe. The down pipe studs unthreaded on my car instead of the nuts coming off. This made it extremely difficult to realign the downpipe.

 

Can you use and purchase the pilot bearing, throw-out bearing, and pilot bearing seals from a local autoshop(pep boys? autozone?), instead of purchasing parts from mazda?

 

While I wouldn't necessarily trust those places to have quality parts for our cars, you'll have to take the Mazda part numbers for each of those and see if they can cross-reference something on them.

Honestly, you are just better off ordering them from Malloy Mazda which will ensure that you get exactly what you need.

 

Yup. Call Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda for those parts at a great price.