If you are using castor based oil, that will create sticky/gummy deposits if the fuel/oil mixture sits for more than a day or so. You need to mix the day you use it and use it all that day.

Apparently it loses its lubricity too.

 

Im still running 1oz Renewable Lube to every 1 gallon E70-E72 from Thorntons Gas stations . 80,000 mile stockport S5 at around 12 psi. Curious to see the insides in the next couple of years...

-M

 

imo it’s a mistake to assume, even Redline acknowledges they aren’t equal, but they cite various examples and offer guidance for the Racing Oil. While they do suggest more for karts, the general range listed on their product page is 50 - 100:1

the thing is, if you err on the low side it’s going to be losing an engine. Their reference to “successful operation” also means relative to fuel type. Just because it was successful at 1 oz. per gallon with E10 gas doesn’t mean that same ratio applies to E50.



.

 

Most people do not add nearly enough oil to their fuel.

I ran for years at 1:128, give or take, and noted no significant wear issues that could not also be attributed to consistent 230F+ coolant temps when under heavy load. (On E10 in a 170-190whp engine, naturally aspirated)
I did some experiments and found that power kept increasing up to 1:50, at which point the exhaust started to get visible, so I ended there. Wear wasn't the end result of insufficient oil, reduced power was.

I later found that Racing Beat recommended oil premix up to 5.5oz per gallon, with Mazda seals, in 500-600 crank horsepower turbo engines. So my line of thinking was certainly not wrong. That is around 1:20-1:25 or so. A rule of thumb I gleaned from that is that 1 oz per gallon per hundred crank horsepower should keep an engine happy. I run my bridge port leaner than this just because I drive it on the street and don't like visible exhaust. I run my restored 12A richer than this because chrome flaking is a real issue with 3mm iron seals and I want to give it every advantage I can.


Meanwhile, I met some rotary drag racers who would eliminate the MOP and also run straight gasoline, because "you don't need oil". Their engines lived well enough for their purposes.

 

Peejay posted this a really long time ago, https://vintagesleds.com/library/man.../oilpremix.pdf

 

recognizing the futility of this discussion based on ever growing assumptions, I’ll just call Redline myself and ask.
.

 

Get information directly from the source? That's crazy talk!

I am interested in what they say.

 

was about to that day and got distracted, but will do. Another thing I want to ask about is why the alcohol premix oil can’t be found on their website - noticed this a year or two ago and made a website inquiry about it, never received any response.
.

 

Has anyone have any experience with Renewable Lubricants with long time use? Apparently this premix can be applied to both regular gasoline and E85 says Kyle Mohan when asked at Sevenstock. I would like to switch between the fuels occasions and will have a flex fuel sensor to read the content.

 

go back a page and start reading here:

https://www.rx7club.com/alternative-.../#post12528235

.

 

No one posted anything with any long time use nor using renewable as flex fuel switching back and forth between 91 & e85

 

I've been fine running Renewable at 1oz per gallon on either e85 or 93 octane for about 2 years Car is now at 12 psi running just shy of 300 to the wheels, stock port 6 port engine with stock internals (engine has around 80k miles) I've also never opened my engine and have absolutely no idea what the housings look like...

-M

 

the Bio-Rotary Racing premix is made by Renewable Lubricants

https://renewablelube.com/products/b...-racing-premix

it hasn’t even been around that long since it came out. So there aren’t any real long term results, just anecdotal “seems to be ok” feedback.

I linked back to the latest discussion; which is in this thread, and in that part of the discussion on this topic there was also a link to another discussion on same. Because it seemed like maybe you missed that. If not, then my apology for the misunderstanding.

Most people aren’t using the company name, but the actual product name. If you’re going to try and search, then “bio premix” is the most likely phrase to yield any useful results.

 

I’ve been reading up on this issue for a little while. I’m about to go single turbo and wanted to use e85 since it’s widely available where I live now, but I also want the engine to last. Has anyone found a proven alcohol compatible premix yet? One that isn’t going to gunk up the engine and fuel system? Kind of scared at this point to even try it, but I live in California with the worst 91 octane.

 

"Has anyone found a proven alcohol compatible premix yet? One that isn’t going to gunk up the engine and fuel system?"

i disassembled 3 engine i had built at the end of 2018 and was not happy w the amount of tar in the ports. i recently came across an interview w a HIGHLY accredited person who mentioned that the tar comes from the interaction between gas and ethanol. he recommended that you not run fractional amounts (30-40 50%) gasoline... that if you just run E85 you will have very modest tar deposits. i proved this not too long ago w one of my engines. i posted a link to the interview recently in either the Single Turbo or 3rd Gen Sections.

 

I'm very comfortable with the ethanol compatibility of several 2-stroke / pre-mix oils... just not Idemitsu Racing Rotary Premix: Spic Racer GT40R - Corn Alchemy - Revealed

As for gumming up the engine and fuel system, I'm on-board with Howard's caution about mid-range ethanol percentages.