E85 Pre-Mix
11-05-23, 04:04 AM
#51
Old [Sch|F]ool
If you are using castor based oil, that will create sticky/gummy deposits if the fuel/oil mixture sits for more than a day or so. You need to mix the day you use it and use it all that day.
Apparently it loses its lubricity too.
Apparently it loses its lubricity too.
The following users liked this post:
Relisys190 (11-06-23)
11-05-23, 08:51 PM
#52
REINCARNATED
iTrader: (4)
Im still running 1oz Renewable Lube to every 1 gallon E70-E72 from Thorntons Gas stations . 80,000 mile stockport S5 at around 12 psi. Curious to see the insides in the next couple of years...
-M
-M
11-06-23, 08:12 AM
#53
I'm assuming (which is a big assume) that the oil is miscible with the gasoline component of the E85 and not the ethanol component.
I also assume that 2 stroke oils are generally engineered for 2 stroke engines, which typically run far, far more oil in the fuel than even the most die hard rotary premixers.
The upshot is, assuming those two things are true, then one should be able to use it *in rotary quantities* with E85 just fine.
I also assume that 2 stroke oils are generally engineered for 2 stroke engines, which typically run far, far more oil in the fuel than even the most die hard rotary premixers.
The upshot is, assuming those two things are true, then one should be able to use it *in rotary quantities* with E85 just fine.
the thing is, if you err on the low side it’s going to be losing an engine. Their reference to “successful operation” also means relative to fuel type. Just because it was successful at 1 oz. per gallon with E10 gas doesn’t mean that same ratio applies to E50.
.
11-06-23, 09:30 PM
#54
Old [Sch|F]ool
Most people do not add nearly enough oil to their fuel.
I ran for years at 1:128, give or take, and noted no significant wear issues that could not also be attributed to consistent 230F+ coolant temps when under heavy load. (On E10 in a 170-190whp engine, naturally aspirated)
I did some experiments and found that power kept increasing up to 1:50, at which point the exhaust started to get visible, so I ended there. Wear wasn't the end result of insufficient oil, reduced power was.
I later found that Racing Beat recommended oil premix up to 5.5oz per gallon, with Mazda seals, in 500-600 crank horsepower turbo engines. So my line of thinking was certainly not wrong. That is around 1:20-1:25 or so. A rule of thumb I gleaned from that is that 1 oz per gallon per hundred crank horsepower should keep an engine happy. I run my bridge port leaner than this just because I drive it on the street and don't like visible exhaust. I run my restored 12A richer than this because chrome flaking is a real issue with 3mm iron seals and I want to give it every advantage I can.
Meanwhile, I met some rotary drag racers who would eliminate the MOP and also run straight gasoline, because "you don't need oil". Their engines lived well enough for their purposes.
I ran for years at 1:128, give or take, and noted no significant wear issues that could not also be attributed to consistent 230F+ coolant temps when under heavy load. (On E10 in a 170-190whp engine, naturally aspirated)
I did some experiments and found that power kept increasing up to 1:50, at which point the exhaust started to get visible, so I ended there. Wear wasn't the end result of insufficient oil, reduced power was.
I later found that Racing Beat recommended oil premix up to 5.5oz per gallon, with Mazda seals, in 500-600 crank horsepower turbo engines. So my line of thinking was certainly not wrong. That is around 1:20-1:25 or so. A rule of thumb I gleaned from that is that 1 oz per gallon per hundred crank horsepower should keep an engine happy. I run my bridge port leaner than this just because I drive it on the street and don't like visible exhaust. I run my restored 12A richer than this because chrome flaking is a real issue with 3mm iron seals and I want to give it every advantage I can.
Meanwhile, I met some rotary drag racers who would eliminate the MOP and also run straight gasoline, because "you don't need oil". Their engines lived well enough for their purposes.
Last edited by peejay; 11-06-23 at 09:37 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Relisys190 (11-07-23)
11-07-23, 08:37 AM
#55
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,826
Received 2,591 Likes
on
1,840 Posts
Peejay posted this a really long time ago, https://vintagesleds.com/library/man.../oilpremix.pdf
The following users liked this post:
Relisys190 (11-07-23)
11-11-23, 09:43 AM
#58
was about to that day and got distracted, but will do. Another thing I want to ask about is why the alcohol premix oil can’t be found on their website - noticed this a year or two ago and made a website inquiry about it, never received any response.
.
.
01-26-24, 02:15 AM
#59
Has anyone have any experience with Renewable Lubricants with long time use? Apparently this premix can be applied to both regular gasoline and E85 says Kyle Mohan when asked at Sevenstock. I would like to switch between the fuels occasions and will have a flex fuel sensor to read the content.
01-26-24, 02:23 PM
#62
REINCARNATED
iTrader: (4)
I've been fine running Renewable at 1oz per gallon on either e85 or 93 octane for about 2 years Car is now at 12 psi running just shy of 300 to the wheels, stock port 6 port engine with stock internals (engine has around 80k miles) I've also never opened my engine and have absolutely no idea what the housings look like...
-M
-M
Last edited by Relisys190; 01-26-24 at 02:39 PM.
01-27-24, 09:49 AM
#63
the Bio-Rotary Racing premix is made by Renewable Lubricants
https://renewablelube.com/products/b...-racing-premix
it hasn’t even been around that long since it came out. So there aren’t any real long term results, just anecdotal “seems to be ok” feedback.
I linked back to the latest discussion; which is in this thread, and in that part of the discussion on this topic there was also a link to another discussion on same. Because it seemed like maybe you missed that. If not, then my apology for the misunderstanding.
Most people aren’t using the company name, but the actual product name. If you’re going to try and search, then “bio premix” is the most likely phrase to yield any useful results.
https://renewablelube.com/products/b...-racing-premix
it hasn’t even been around that long since it came out. So there aren’t any real long term results, just anecdotal “seems to be ok” feedback.
I linked back to the latest discussion; which is in this thread, and in that part of the discussion on this topic there was also a link to another discussion on same. Because it seemed like maybe you missed that. If not, then my apology for the misunderstanding.
Most people aren’t using the company name, but the actual product name. If you’re going to try and search, then “bio premix” is the most likely phrase to yield any useful results.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
wthdidusay82
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
21
11-16-07 11:18 AM