save the whales, SAVE YOUR MOTOR
#301
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Now lets look at how the famous Idemitsu 2 cycle oil for the rotary was tested when their patient was placed..
All I can say is, there is no real world testing to show just pre-mix alone will make your engine last longer.
Last edited by no_more_rice; 03-05-10 at 11:42 AM.
#302
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Pre-mix with the OMP is completely unncessary. Fact.
#303
DGRR 2017 4/26-4/30, 2017
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That's the patent Idemitsu filed under "Lubricating oil composition for 2 cycle or rotary engine ".
Also, that's the way they tested their product and for Evaluation.. Not much straight forward than that..
Again, you make me laugh.. You are the one who stated that there are case study after case study. And when a company such as Idemitsu is directly comparing rotary to be 2 cycle, I think what Amsoil (a leading lubrication company) state seems to be bit more par with than your 1:256 ratio.... Unless you consider your pre-mix only for 5 year is something we should listen to by heart and we should all do this... Which I call it lack of study and lack of proof.
Last edited by Herblenny; 03-05-10 at 12:25 PM.
#304
It's finally reliable
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my old turbo II had 120K miles on stock engine and omp,when i took the engine apart due to an engine fire the rotors looked in good shape. Well not as good as the the rotors pictured by howard but all they needed was a good wipe down. The point is that the omp has been proven to work for long periods of time with out it being the main culprit of seal failure.
you can`t say that premixing from the OMP is unncessary.
I never premixed any of my rx7s until now and 1/2 oz for every 1 gallon )for lubrication) and stock omp (for Longevity) seems the perfect combination for me
you can`t say that premixing from the OMP is unncessary.
I never premixed any of my rx7s until now and 1/2 oz for every 1 gallon )for lubrication) and stock omp (for Longevity) seems the perfect combination for me
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#307
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#308
DGRR 2017 4/26-4/30, 2017
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Good question, as you I don't think you understand what 'science' is nor what is really going on here.. Lets look at what you said earlier:
Twilight zone, you say?? As ALL your statement so far are nothing but random speculation.
But of course you say,
So, where are these case studies after case studies? As you mention to Barban, I must be blind too. But of course when I actually provide you with some real documentation, you all the sudden becomes that blind person. Twilight Zone you say??
Bold statement there.. Nothing in common... from a lubrication standpoint?? I highly suggest you go learn bit about both engines. Because statement like this just makes you look... how can I say.. I think you said it best, "deaf and blind".
Twilight zone, you say?? As ALL your statement so far are nothing but random speculation.
But of course you say,
Bold statement there.. Nothing in common... from a lubrication standpoint?? I highly suggest you go learn bit about both engines. Because statement like this just makes you look... how can I say.. I think you said it best, "deaf and blind".
#309
Rotary Freak
Couldn't be bothered to go through the whole lot.
When the Mazda guys were running them here as race cars in endurance events, metering oil pump was kept operational and premix added at a ratio of 300:1...techs from Japan involved, so you'd think there was some basis to it.....shot in the dark, probably mid 300s hp wise, add a few tens more for north of the equator.
When the Mazda guys were running them here as race cars in endurance events, metering oil pump was kept operational and premix added at a ratio of 300:1...techs from Japan involved, so you'd think there was some basis to it.....shot in the dark, probably mid 300s hp wise, add a few tens more for north of the equator.
#310
Turd Ferguson
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in no_more_rice's defense. A 2-stroke engine and the rotary engine don't really have a whole lot in common when it comes to lubricating with a 2-stroke oil.
Rotary engine would use 2-stroke lubricant for the seals only. (benefits such as injector conditioning, carbon minimization, etc... are secondary "benefits") We're talking in the 100s:1 ballpark. Everything else is crankcase oil lubricated.
Traditionally, 2-strokes use oil to lubricate everything (pistons, crankshaft, etc..) Because of this the ratios are much higher due to the increased demands of the lubrication needs. 20-50:1
Some advanced 2-strokes today use premix and a separate reservoir. Still, however, everything is being lubricated by the 2-stroke oil. Just different delivery method.
In my book the two are only related to one another in that they would both use 2-stroke oil. The purpose is still to lubricate, I understand that, but the demands of the lubrication are greatly different. No one is even attempting to justify putting 2-stroke oil in to lubricate an eccentric shaft in a 8000rpm sports car.
Rotary engine would use 2-stroke lubricant for the seals only. (benefits such as injector conditioning, carbon minimization, etc... are secondary "benefits") We're talking in the 100s:1 ballpark. Everything else is crankcase oil lubricated.
Traditionally, 2-strokes use oil to lubricate everything (pistons, crankshaft, etc..) Because of this the ratios are much higher due to the increased demands of the lubrication needs. 20-50:1
Some advanced 2-strokes today use premix and a separate reservoir. Still, however, everything is being lubricated by the 2-stroke oil. Just different delivery method.
In my book the two are only related to one another in that they would both use 2-stroke oil. The purpose is still to lubricate, I understand that, but the demands of the lubrication are greatly different. No one is even attempting to justify putting 2-stroke oil in to lubricate an eccentric shaft in a 8000rpm sports car.
#311
Rx7 Wagon
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Technically it's atomized with the fuel and then burnt off during the combustion cycle. You wear that hat well.
That's why it's important that the fuel which does land on the housings and side plates contains a sufficient amount of 2-cycle oil to lubricate something.
So, lets recap.
1) Most of the premix wont lubricate anything because it's atomized and burned with the fuel(just like it's designed to)
2) The lubricative properties of the small amount of fuel that actually makes it to the friction surface will depend on the amount of 2-cycle oil mixed in your fuel tank(not the size of the parts being lubricated)
3) A pre-mix oiling system wont deliver any lubrication when the fuel injectors arent firing(any time your decelerating). So, it's doubly important that the mixture be sufficiently rich in 2-stroke oil to promote residual lubrication.
4) Amsoil says a ratio less than 100:1 will not effectively lubricate anything.
5) 2-cycle companies recommend ratio's as high as 20:1 for 2-strokes. Generally companies recommend 40:1(we dont need that much because were not lubricating the e-shaft and rotors). But, that does show how high the ratio can be.
From just those last two statements(direct from the oil companies) we need a ratio richer than 100:1 and leaner than 40:1.
Rice,
I agree with you that there is a major difference in that we dont have to lubricate any "bottom end" components. But, the situations are very much alike. Same delivery system, same purpose, same problems.
If 2-strokes dont experience wet fouling or high-rpm ignition breakup at 40:1 it shouldnt be a problem at 100:1 for a rotary.
At 100:1 you're loosing 1% of your octane rating.
If you're worried about running 92 octane instead of 93, your tune sucks. Or, maybe you could get your car tuned while you're pre-mixing.
If your ignition is breaking up then you need to upgrade you ignition system. It's a notorious problem at higher levels of boost anyways.
That's why it's important that the fuel which does land on the housings and side plates contains a sufficient amount of 2-cycle oil to lubricate something.
So, lets recap.
1) Most of the premix wont lubricate anything because it's atomized and burned with the fuel(just like it's designed to)
2) The lubricative properties of the small amount of fuel that actually makes it to the friction surface will depend on the amount of 2-cycle oil mixed in your fuel tank(not the size of the parts being lubricated)
3) A pre-mix oiling system wont deliver any lubrication when the fuel injectors arent firing(any time your decelerating). So, it's doubly important that the mixture be sufficiently rich in 2-stroke oil to promote residual lubrication.
4) Amsoil says a ratio less than 100:1 will not effectively lubricate anything.
5) 2-cycle companies recommend ratio's as high as 20:1 for 2-strokes. Generally companies recommend 40:1(we dont need that much because were not lubricating the e-shaft and rotors). But, that does show how high the ratio can be.
From just those last two statements(direct from the oil companies) we need a ratio richer than 100:1 and leaner than 40:1.
Rice,
I agree with you that there is a major difference in that we dont have to lubricate any "bottom end" components. But, the situations are very much alike. Same delivery system, same purpose, same problems.
If 2-strokes dont experience wet fouling or high-rpm ignition breakup at 40:1 it shouldnt be a problem at 100:1 for a rotary.
At 100:1 you're loosing 1% of your octane rating.
If you're worried about running 92 octane instead of 93, your tune sucks. Or, maybe you could get your car tuned while you're pre-mixing.
If your ignition is breaking up then you need to upgrade you ignition system. It's a notorious problem at higher levels of boost anyways.
#312
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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I can only speak to my own experience...... the duty cycle on my OMP has been jacked up (increased) by a past tuner, *and* I was using approx 1 oz per gallon. I'm talking 16-18 oz's for a fillup.
My ignition system works very well-- almost new coils, new NGK power cables, NGK 10.5 heat range race plugs. I didn't have breakup..... the damn car stopped accelerating, hard. As in, felt like I slammed on the brakes hard.
It was definitely the premix. Switched to a lower ratio and the car was happy. No other changes.
Personally, I like the stock oil metering system supplemented with a bit of premix. Tore down my old motor not long ago and there was minimal carbon.... very clean. This was no doubt due to the Aquamist/windshield wiper fluid injection coupled with a prolific right foot
#313
Do a barrel roll!
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Ive been reading this thread over and again as this subject has been something I have been going over in my head for my own 3 rotor build. Can we at least come to an agreement to as whether or not the MOP is necessary/helpful at all if one is going to premix? Anyone who has ever torn down an engine can see that only the center of the apex is getting lubed from the MOP. Now I myself have owned a Turbo2 with ~160k on the factory engine and MOP, non premix. Yes it ran, yes it ran well, so I do still have some faith in that system, but as we also know crankcase oil wasnt designed to burn and does/will lead to carbon buildup. Is there any proof that removing it and running a decent premix ratio has any negative effects? Im thinking the answer will be no.
#314
It's finally reliable
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Ive been reading this thread over and again as this subject has been something I have been going over in my head for my own 3 rotor build. Can we at least come to an agreement to as whether or not the MOP is necessary/helpful at all if one is going to premix? Anyone who has ever torn down an engine can see that only the center of the apex is getting lubed from the MOP. Now I myself have owned a Turbo2 with ~160k on the factory engine and MOP, non premix. Yes it ran, yes it ran well, so I do still have some faith in that system, but as we also know crankcase oil wasnt designed to burn and does/will lead to carbon buildup. Is there any proof that removing it and running a decent premix ratio has any negative effects? Im thinking the answer will be no.
#315
Let's state a few facts.
1. Your experience with pre-mixing a rotary starts and stops with you pouring oil into the gas tank. Attempting to portray yourself as some sort of pre-mixing expert in this thread got old a long time ago.
2. You have no idea what the current state of your engine internals are. You have never seen them, you did not even build the engine yourself, so you really do not have a clue as to how clean/dirty the rotors were when they went into the engine.
3. Your 5 years of "experience" means nothing. You can pre-mix for 25years, it is not the elapsed time, it is how often and how hard the car is driven.
4. Rich is running his OMP and pre-mixing 1/2 oz/ga, the same ratio that you are stating should be run without the OMP.
Now on to more recent findings:
Here are the rotors from an FD engine that I disassembled on Friday. It has about 10K miles on it since it was rebuilt by a west coast builder in 2002. Car has a GT35R and Haltech. It has been premixed from Day 1. Owner has been using 1/2 oz/ga Idemitsu. Car was tuned rich, by a well know traveling tuner. Main failure chipped Apex seal.
Same amount of Carbon build up as higher mileage, less modified engines with the OMP intact. As you can see the carbon build up is far beyond the level of being able to "just wipe off" and reuse.
Last edited by Banzai-Racing; 03-07-10 at 09:46 AM.
#316
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If the car was tuned rich (or lugged), that's not a good example.
Again, Idemitsu are the guys who sell a rotary lube pre-mix and have been for many years. Why would they want to underestimate the volume of lube required, when they could sell more product (and decrease the risk of bad marketing) - can someone answer that one? One of their representatives specifically told me he knows of roadracers running 400:1 for years, with no issues.
http://www.idemitsu-usa.com/page_210.htm
That recommendation is with or without the OMP btw (although I still have no idea why you would bother with the OMP if you're going to pre-mix).
Again, Idemitsu are the guys who sell a rotary lube pre-mix and have been for many years. Why would they want to underestimate the volume of lube required, when they could sell more product (and decrease the risk of bad marketing) - can someone answer that one? One of their representatives specifically told me he knows of roadracers running 400:1 for years, with no issues.
http://www.idemitsu-usa.com/page_210.htm
Inherently with many rotary engines, the entirety of the rotor and housing are not being sufficiently lubricated, resulting in premature wear or damage. In order to increase lubrication within the rotary, Idemitsu developed Idemitsu Rotary Premix. At 1/2 oz per gallon of fuel, it is a cost effective way lubricate more of your engine and prevent premature catastrophic damage.
Last edited by no_more_rice; 03-07-10 at 12:28 PM.
#317
Again, Idemitsu are the guys who sell a rotary lube pre-mix and have been for many years. Why would they want to underestimate the volume of lube required, when they could sell more product (and decrease the risk of bad marketing) - can someone answer that one? One of their representatives specifically told me he knows of roadracers running 400:1 for years, with no issues.
Mazda designed the S4 N/A and Turbo pumps to flow at different rates:
Turbo 5.2-6.6cc (x2) in 5 min @ 2000 rpm
N/A 4.2- 5.6cc (x2) in 5 min @2000 rpm
This in itself dictates a 20% higher flow for turbocharged vehicles.
Page 2-7 (8 in the PDF) http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ION_SYSTEM.pdf
Last edited by Banzai-Racing; 03-07-10 at 01:22 PM.
#319
FB=OS Giken LSD
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I use and will continue to use what my builder (Dave at KDR) and tuner recommends. He is also one of the few Mazda Certified Master Rotary Technicians that is still around and running his own shop so I think his experience speaks for something.
You may now resume the fighting and name calling...
You may now resume the fighting and name calling...
#321
Senior Member
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I didn't read every post, so I don't know if this has already been discussed. Amsoil recommends leaner ratio's due to the fact it is a 30wt oil, vs typical 2 stoke oil being 5wt. Starting out with a thicker oil allows for leaner ratio while still maintaining lubrication. With that being said I inject Amsoil through the mop and premix 1oz pr gallon. Without premix I warped two set of Mazda 3mm seals, with premix 450+ hp and happy seals.
#323
DGRR 2017 4/26-4/30, 2017
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What the *&#?!! Are you serious?? So, are you now saying premix doesn't do **** unless its tuned perfectly?? Or if the car was lugged around?? So what would you say to Howard's initial post? Would you now say comparing stock ECU ran vs. Howard's tuned car can't be compared?
Ahh.. Did you ask them if Idemitsu reps read the patent for their own pre-mix lube?? I'm sorry to say this but I've met TONS of reps in my work who had NO IDEA what they are talking about. Usually, I have to talk to someone high up in order to get a straight answer... Just because you talked to some rep means nothing... because they themselves could be miss leading people, like you are on this thread. Also, did you read the link and the pdf file they linked? Just in case, here it is:
If you read it, no where they suggest removing the OMP and just run 1/2 oz per gallon.
I totally agree!! No company would be making such statement. And no where I read where JUST pre-mix was used... it actually says, "additional protection".... LOL! And we all know why company will say such thing as "additional protection"... Hell, I could say "additional protection" for pretty much anything
Again, Idemitsu are the guys who sell a rotary lube pre-mix and have been for many years. Why would they want to underestimate the volume of lube required, when they could sell more product (and decrease the risk of bad marketing) - can someone answer that one? One of their representatives specifically told me he knows of roadracers running 400:1 for years, with no issues.
http://www.idemitsu-usa.com/page_210.htm
http://www.idemitsu-usa.com/page_210.htm
I totally agree!! No company would be making such statement. And no where I read where JUST pre-mix was used... it actually says, "additional protection".... LOL! And we all know why company will say such thing as "additional protection"... Hell, I could say "additional protection" for pretty much anything
#324
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Anyhow, again, Amsoil's recommendations for two cycle engines have exactly nothing to do with apex seal lubrication in a rotary, so trying to extrapolate ratios between the two is plainly moronic! The relative surface areas aren't even close between a two stroke crankshaft/pistons and the tiny seals in a rotary!
I inject Amsoil through the mop and premix 1oz pr gallon.
#325
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If you read it, no where they suggest removing the OMP and just run 1/2 oz per gallon.