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I recently did an engine on my FD and decided to log all of the parts necessary for the job. Despite reading the FSM, forum write-ups, and watching videos, the job ended up requiring much more ancillary parts than I initially anticipated. With the list below, others should be able to get a general idea of what to expect, in addition to saving the headache of having to research all these parts individually.
This list is based on the least invasive engine pull procedure:
-TB stays connected to UIM
-AC compressor and PS pump stay in the car
-Thermostat housing stays connected to WP housing
-Secondary fuel rail stays on the LIM
-Replace old motor with Mazda short block
Should you decide to rebuild the old motor yourself, additional gaskets/seals will obviously be necessary. But for removing the engine, stripping to the bare block and re-assembling from there, this will be an entirely comprehensive list if nothing breaks along the way.
Additionally, the list is divided into two categories: required and elective. Required is comprised of “replace” parts listed in the FSM, in addition to items that are sure to degrade between service. Elective is comprised of “might as well” replace parts; i.e., things that will degrade over time and are a pain to access in chassis.
Prices listed are per single part; numbers must be extrapolated for quantity required.
Notes:
* Oil Filter Stand O-Rings come individually through Mazda, or as a set through Atkins. Adjust order quantity accordingly based on distributor.
** OMP lines are sold individually through Mazda (N3A1-14-660) $34.37, (N3A1-14-670) $34.37, or as a pair through Atkins (ARE108) $78.00.
*** Fuel Pulsation Damper includes the O-Ring through Mazda, however it is sold separately through Atkins.
Prices are generally comparable between Mazda and Atkins depending on the part. I used Mazda for most of these parts, although I had to go through Atkins for a few. The primary benefits of using a local Mazda dealer are free shipping, and the parts generally arrive in a day or two because of their existing supply chain.
Hope this helps! I know my project would’ve taken exponentially less time had I ordered all of these prior to starting
When I do a motor I typically wait until I have the motor out to make a determination of what ancillary parts are needed. Sometimes parts have been replaced due to previous service, sometimes parts that should be good aren't due to being replaced with a crappy aftermarket part.
I would say this is a good guide to get started with but every car is going to be different. I wouldn't just order a bunch of stuff before you get started, no sense spending money where it isn't needed.
Also the turbo gaskets are re-usable more often than not and they are VERY expensive new.
I agree with Dale, if you've got more time than money some of the metal gaskets can be reused. I bought the two expensive turbo-to-manifold exhaust gaskets years and years ago, and they sat in my spare parts box for years before I installed them. The old ones still looked OK and there weren't signs of leaks each time I was in there. I eventually installed them because I was tired of looking at the expensive gaskets in my parts pile, not because the old ones needed to be replaced.
Most of the rubber parts are no-brainers, I wish I had replaced the oil filter pedestal o-rings the last time I was in that area.
Thanks for making that list, I'm saving a copy in the 'RX7 notes' folder on my PC.
When I do a motor I typically wait until I have the motor out to make a determination of what ancillary parts are needed. Sometimes parts have been replaced due to previous service, sometimes parts that should be good aren't due to being replaced with a crappy aftermarket part.
I would say this is a good guide to get started with but every car is going to be different. I wouldn't just order a bunch of stuff before you get started, no sense spending money where it isn't needed.
Also the turbo gaskets are re-usable more often than not and they are VERY expensive new.
Thanks for the list!
Dale
Thanks Dale!! Yeah I agree, some of the metal parts may be reusable dependent upon condition; definitely worth inspecting first for a low-cost refresh. Those were included in the "required" category as per the FSM; additionally, the turbos are a GIANT pain to access on my JDM car, so I wasn't going to risk pulling them again for being thrifty lol.
But man, on this 70k mile '91 production example, I needed everything from the list and then some. Broken studs/bolts, connecter rebuilds, harness repairs, you name it. No easy task, but I hope being thorough will serve the car well for years to come 🤞🏻
Another thing to keep in mind is that any of the standard metric crush washers (AL or copper) can be sourced from McMaster-Carr for much less than what you'll pay going to Mazda. Just measure up the the sizes from the old ones & order away. Some of those (oil injector crush washers) are used elsewhere on the car for different applications (e.g., brake line banjo bolts), so the extras you order in quantity will come in handy.
It contains a ton of stuff, and comes out quite alot cheaper than buying all that stuff separately (mainly the exhaust gaskets add up very quickly in price)
There is a bunch of stuff you would not need, like water jacket seals, and oil pan gasket(throw away) . But make it a great deal
Last edited by KompressorLOgic; 12-01-19 at 01:42 PM.
Another thing to keep in mind is that any of the standard metric crush washers (AL or copper) can be sourced from McMaster-Carr for much less than what you'll pay going to Mazda. Just measure up the the sizes from the old ones & order away. Some of those (oil injector crush washers) are used elsewhere on the car for different applications (e.g., brake line banjo bolts), so the extras you order in quantity will come in handy.
That's a great idea! Unfortunately I didn't have the foresight and discarded the old washers. If anyone has gone this route and knows the McMaster-Carr equivalent for the crush washers listed above, please post in this thread.
It contains a ton of stuff, and comes out quite alot cheaper than buying all that stuff separately (mainly the exhaust gaskets add up very quickly in price)
There is a bunch of stuff you would not need, like water jacket seals, and oil pan gasket(throw away) . But make it a great deal
That's a fantastic option for going the rebuild route; I'd have to see if the numbers cross over and it ends up being cheaper than buying the minimum parts separately without internal seals. But from rough calculations it looks like a killer deal. Definitely worth looking at further!
To be clear for all the comments proposing alternate action, this wasn't drafted as the cheapest route or budget build thread. I merely crafted a list including parts that need to be (or should be) replaced during an engine tear down. Part numbers and quantities should be immensely helpful for anyone doing the same, prices were listed as a courtesy or general guide for what to expect. Obviously if you can find a cheaper/easier way to do the job, get after it lol. I get cost +10% at Mazda, so going through the dealer for all these parts was certainly the cheapest route for me. That stated, the feedback has been very informative, and it's good to know what options are out there for an engine refresh 😁
I recently did a rebuild install with almost all new parts as well.
another list for good info are all the coolant hoses
ENGINE BAY COOLANT HOSES
93-95 Rx7 Upper Radiator Hose (N3A1-15-186B)
93-95 Rx7 Lower Radiator Hose (N3A1-15-185B)
93-95 Rx7 Pipe to Right Heater Core Hose (FD01-61-211A)
93-95 Rx7 Pipe to Left Heater Core Hose (FD01-61-212A)
93-95 Rx7 Pipe to Radiator Hose (FD01-61-214B)
93-95 Rx7 Engine to Pipe Left Hose (FD01-61-213B)
93-95 Rx7 Hose End at Left Rear of Engine (B455-61-240A)
93-95 Rx7 Filler Neck To Tank Hose (N3A1-15-183A)
93-95 Rx7 Lower Radiator To Tank Hose (N3A1-15-184A)
93-95 Rx7 Turbo To Water Pump Housing Hose (N3A1-13-54X)
93-95 Rx7 Lower Turbo Water Feed Hose (N3A1-13-536)
93-95 Rx7 Pipe to Throttle Body Hose (N3A1-13-691A)
93-95 Rx7 Water Pump to Pipe Hose (N3A1-13-692)
Last edited by KompressorLOgic; 12-02-19 at 07:07 AM.
I recently did a rebuild install with almost all new parts as well.
another list for good info are all the coolant hoses...
Awesome contribution!! As for the NLA part (N3A1-13-692), I picked one up from Mazda earlier this year 🤔. Maybe I got lucky, but there's a chance they ran another production batch as they've been known to do in the past. I'll check with the parts guy next time I'm in there.
I still consider precontrol and wastewater optional due to their lower failure rate
Your thread is EXACTLY what lead me to replace these, thanks again for that! And yeah that's a good point, plus it's super easy to access. But I replaced the WG/PC anyway since I was already in there. Even went as far as writing the replacement mileage on the new solenoids lol.
The water hose (N3A1-13-692) is NLA; however, it is available new through Mazda under the superseded part number (N3A1-13-692A).
Now for the fun stuff!
For anyone that goes the block replacement route as I did... Mazda added another bolt to the corner of the pan on newer REWs (presumably to reduce oil leaks), which prevents the left side motor mount from seating flush on the pan. Options are to remove the bolt, hog out the original mount for clearance, or replace with the revised motor mount.
Hopefully this saves someone the same headache I had; the old mount starts to mate up fine and runs in as per the torque procedure... Then it bottoms early on that newly added bolt, and begins canting around a different moment that will damage the rear iron threads if you don't catch it in time.
I went with option 3, here are pictures to illustrate what I'm referring to:
When I needed to just replace coolant seals on a newly refreshed engine, Atkins kit was cheaper than OEM even with my mazdaspeed discount.
Some people like to hate on Atkins for making some cheaper gasket and seal options, but they have still been doing this whole rotary thing for a very long time. I always spot check their prices and kits with mazdaspeed, they buy OEM parts in bulk and put them into kits so their pricing can be way better.
Many Atkins parts are their copies of the OEM parts. Some are good, some not so good. Big one is their rear main seals, they have the RX-8 style thinner ones, they don't fit right and can cause leaks. Not to mention it's big fun to get to if it doesn't work.
But I've ordered tons of parts from Atkins for rebuilds. Some parts they offer both the OEM and their versions so you can choose. You can always tell OEM since it will have a Mazda part number on their website.
So it looks like over the past couple years some of these prices have gone from plain ol' expensive to absolutely eye-watering.
Just the "required" gaskets have OEM pricing well over $1,500. And from your online vendor of choice, you're looking at something right about $1,000. For a handful of gaskets.
The bulk of the expense comes down to just 4 of the gaskets:
N3A1-13-461 -- Exhaust Manifold -- now up to $210/ea and you need two of them, so $420.
N3B7-13-491A -- Turbo to Downpipe -- now up to $340/ea
N3A1-13-710 (and N3A2) -- Turbo Gaskets are $170/ea and $110/ea respectively.
Do we have alternatives to these out there? Crossing my fingers that in the past couple years as prices have skyrocketed that perhaps someone else has decided to enter the market.
N3A1-13-461 -- Exhaust Manifold -- now up to $210/ea and you need two of them, so $420..
that is at retail price in the US, Mazda comp is like $80 cheaper. its even less in Japan,
and then there is N3A1-13-461A, which is the later FD part, $75 each, but you need to buy from Japan https://www.amayama.com/en/part/mazda/n3a113461a
Ballpark estimate of a DIY keg rebuild versus a new Mazda keg (approx $6000 delivered) ??
Either way, this is about the gaskets and whatnot you will need just to get the short-block built back up. The cost of rebuilding or buying the shortblock is a whole other story. I've got a brand-new keg. Now I'm just wondering if I have to spend another $1000 on gaskets (which is fine, if so), as noted primarily on the turbos and exhaust, or whether there are alternatives out there.
9 times out of 10 the turbo gaskets are re-usable. The only one I've ever really seen "bad" is the larger turbo to manifold gasket. All the others are almost always reusable.
The engine to manifold gaskets I don't think I've EVER seen go bad. Those things are bomb proof.
Either way, this is about the gaskets and whatnot you will need just to get the short-block built back up. The cost of rebuilding or buying the shortblock is a whole other story. I've got a brand-new keg. Now I'm just wondering if I have to spend another $1000 on gaskets (which is fine, if so), as noted primarily on the turbos and exhaust, or whether there are alternatives out there.
Mazda has different prices for the same part in different places. also, in the case of N3A1-13-461 and N3A1-13-461A there are two part numbers for a very similar part, which also have different prices.
so you need to shop around, and you need to account for shipping as well
N3B7-13-491A -- Turbo to Downpipe -- now up to $340/ea
The turbo to downpipe gasket is also only about $40 + shipping from Japan. You can use that part number and buy from RHDJapan or use N3A1-13-491 and buy from Amayama or elsewhere.
I used the N3B7 number through RHDJapan and got a bag that still had the N3A1-13-491 label. For some reason RHDJapan has N3A1-13-491 shown as discontinued.
This one is weird... I'm very curious how the price difference for this gasket can be about 4-5x for the US vs Japan.
11-29-19, 05:21 PM
