I am placing an order with Ray from Malloy tomorrow but before I do so I wanted to see what gaskets are reuasable. He qouted me a price of about $525 for the following:

-Compressor Inlet and outlet gaskets (are these metal? reusable?)
-Turbo Oil lines (mine have oil leaking from around them, so I think its safe to say replace them)
-Turbo to manifold gaskets ( have yet to look at mine, I have been soaking the nuts for 3 days, and two will still not move)
-Throttle Body (right now I have paper)
-Gasket set ( I know he said: Block to exhaust manifold, UIM, LIM, Metering oil Pump, Oil Pedestal o-rings.... Not sure if the Downpipe gasket is included or any others) My UIM and LIM are still the paper, MOP may be leaking oil.

Others:
-Fuel recall kit (not sure if it was conducted on mine, but figure $80 for new lines/clamps is a good idea).
-Fuel filter
-Fuel Pulsation Dampner (not sure "if" it was replaced or not, chassis has 93K on it, whats the average life of these?) I have been thinking of using the Marren with the stock lines, but I am not sure what is all involved or worth it.
-Turbo coolant lines (read its good to replace these)
-Shifter to tranny (may just use silicon sealant)
-Power Steering only belt


Should I omit any of the above? And what would be reusable for furture reference, I am know it doends on the condition but how would I know if its good or not? What can be done to "recondition" them?

Also I am debating about the Throw out bearing wedge collar and ring. Mine seems to be undamaged/distorted from when I removed it, plus its aother $55.

 

The block to exh manifold, dp and turbo to manifold gaskets are all reusable unless damaged and will save you about 200 bucks.

 

I guess if they are all in one peice they are fine, what do you consider "damage?"

 

The exhaust gaskets are bad if it's cracked, blown out, etc. Damage is pretty obvious.

I've seen early cars with paper gaskets for the Y-pipe - later cars use metal gaskets. The metal seems to be re-usable many times over.

What are you fixing on your car, BTW?

Dale

 

I am fixing an oil pan leak (may front cover, need to inspect further), adding efini y-pipe, porting turbo wastegate, silicon vac job, SS MOP lines yeah i think my one line as about 1/10000th " away from splitting open, cause of the little metal piece that stick up on the CAS was wearing it away. Plus various other things I am doing. Why do you ask?

 

I was just wondering why you were buying all those gaskets . Helps to know what project you're undertaking.

With that much stuff going on, might actually be simpler to go ahead and yank the motor out of the car. BIG TIME for the oil pan leak - fixing that leak with the engine out of the car is FAR more pleasant, especially if you have an engine stand.

Dale

 

IMO the only way to totally stop an oil pan leak is to get Aspec or Xcessive's aluminum pan with the o-ring. I have tried many of times to get the stock pan to not leak with no luck.

 

Already done I prefer working above things than below

As for the pan leak, I am searching to find the best silicon gasket maker to do the job. I gotta ask my firend what he always uses he suggested to me a while back when I was doing a TII swap for a friend and adding a oil baffle plate.

Sealing senarios:

-To help seal it I am going to use an oil pan brace, rather than just it bolting in place I have been thinking of tig welding it to the bottom of the pan. USing a silicon sealant and no gasket.

- Or my other idea is make a brace with an o-ring groove that would be welded to the pan rail-engine side. Alittle cheaper than the Aspec/pineapple, but will retain the Mazda R&D baffles/sensors.

-Or my last thought was to get a custom gasket made of Viton, pretty much the same material as an o-ring, yet it would have atleast 2-3x the sealing surface area. I would also run a brace in this case, with no sealant, just like an o-ring groved pan.

I really think the last one would work, but I am not sure if the cost will justify it, unless I could get a handful of others to join in on it.

BTW I told Ray to hold off on the exhaust gaskets and it cut the price down about $180 to a new total of $340!!! YEA!!!

 

Does this look reuseable?

My turbos have pretty bad craking, although it looks like the manifold is in great condition.

Are there two wastegates on the turbo? Or one? I see the one for the primary, is there one for the secondary turbos? How should I port them? Just to the edge of the flapper, or further? I went over the flapper on my S4 and then welded a a washer to the end of the existing flapper...