When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The Mazda parts catalog right now, only goes back to 1986, but Mazda has parts for these older cars, and to get them you need to bring the part numbers. If anyone needs help finding part numbers i have the same catalog, Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals
but i'm sitting in front of the Mazda dealer website, and i can do availability (and price) also. i'm happy to do it, its almost my day job anyways
Ya that is awesome. I will let you know of anything. About a year ago I ordered almost $1k worth of OEM parts from my local dealer. At first dealer guy thought I was crazy when I showed up with this list of obscure parts, but once he found out it was for an FB he understood.
Also a good thread to point this out in, Mazda can still get most fasteners. So right out of the parts catalog I had no issues having them order me important nuts/bolts etc.
Much appreciated. Might I suggest that we post in this thread some of the more comprehensive lists that we (as engineers) love to create for ourselves? Every sub assembly I have rebuilt over the years has an accompanying parts catalog diagram highlighted, edited for NLA and available parts and notes about sources etc. We could break it into sub sections and keep a master pdf (searchable) with the original catalog page and an edited one for the newer information. It would take a long time, but it would make the information more accessible for those that are not familiar with cross referencing part numbers across different catalogs by hand to find things. That would take some of the enjoyment out of it though.
Much appreciated. Might I suggest that we post in this thread some of the more comprehensive lists that we (as engineers) love to create for ourselves? Every sub assembly I have rebuilt over the years has an accompanying parts catalog diagram highlighted, edited for NLA and available parts and notes about sources etc. We could break it into sub sections and keep a master pdf (searchable) with the original catalog page and an edited one for the newer information. It would take a long time, but it would make the information more accessible for those that are not familiar with cross referencing part numbers across different catalogs by hand to find things. That would take some of the enjoyment out of it though.
i've got some half done sheets like that, sometimes getting a format i'm happy with takes a couple tries
Ya that is awesome. I will let you know of anything. About a year ago I ordered almost $1k worth of OEM parts from my local dealer.
FYI for those that don't know... Ray Crowe provides the club steep discounts on parts for RX7s and other Mazdas. He has 2 FDs last time I checked. One with a 3 rotor. His prices are almost as good as Mazda Motorsports and certainly the cheapest that I've seen outside of them.
Contact him via email crowe.ray@aol.com
I forgot his phone number...
@j9fd3s I know this threads been dead for 3+ years but I'm wondering if you can find anything (even a description) for part number 8871-55-482. Should be the dashboard/instrument cluster voltage regulator for an SA. I can't find anything anywhere, even what the voltage output is. Any information would help me on this quest. Thanks!
The parts fiche says its for an analog clock equipped cluster and lists another P/N for the digital clock. Shouldn't be too hard to find another cluster to try and swap regulators if you suspect its bad.
@j9fd3s I know this threads been dead for 3+ years but I'm wondering if you can find anything (even a description) for part number 8871-55-482. Should be the dashboard/instrument cluster voltage regulator for an SA. I can't find anything anywhere, even what the voltage output is. Any information would help me on this quest. Thanks!
8871-55-482 just says Regulator INAC, inactive, NLA
what symptom do you actually have?
i think this might be it in the wiring diagram,
That is it in the wiring diagram. Symptom is that both the temp and fuel gauges read low. Both also go all the way to the top if you ground the sensor wire (as they should) so the engineer in me feels like that would be caused by a low voltage from the regulator. I also read 7v on the temp sensor wire when it's disconnected with the ignition on. Looking at the (over) simplified diagram above a low voltage would cause a lower current, moving the gauges less, hence my hypothesis here. I also believe that test should show directly the output of that regulator. Again, I can't find specs but other Japanese cars of the era that I've found are 9v regulators in the dash. I'd also be totally excited if anyone with an SA could read that voltage for me to see what it is.
Yep, that's where I found the p/n. Honestly, I believe it's a "mechanical" regulator, and if I can determine it's bad I'm going to replace it with a modern regulator, but first I need to know more before I tear into the dash...
That is it in the wiring diagram. Symptom is that both the temp and fuel gauges read low. Both also go all the way to the top if you ground the sensor wire (as they should) so the engineer in me feels like that would be caused by a low voltage from the regulator. I also read 7v on the temp sensor wire when it's disconnected with the ignition on. Looking at the (over) simplified diagram above a low voltage would cause a lower current, moving the gauges less, hence my hypothesis here. I also believe that test should show directly the output of that regulator. Again, I can't find specs but other Japanese cars of the era that I've found are 9v regulators in the dash. I'd also be totally excited if anyone with an SA could read that voltage for me to see what it is.
you've seen this i assume, it would take some digging, but later FSM's would have the temps too, and since they use the same temp sender up to 1988, you could figure that out
or the temp gauge kind of normally sits about 1/3rd at normal temp
I was having trouble with the clock on my 79, and I found that the electrical connection is through the mounting bolts. So I took the 5mm nuts off and cleaned the copper on the circuit board with Scotch Brite, and now the clock keeps perfect time. I bet the temp and fuel gauges would benefit from the same work.
you've seen this i assume, it would take some digging, but later FSM's would have the temps too, and since they use the same temp sender up to 1988, you could figure that out
or the temp gauge kind of normally sits about 1/3rd at normal temp
@j9fd3s I did not see that, I have the Workshop Manual but not the FSM. That will give me some good testing, appreciate the tip!
I was having trouble with the clock on my 79, and I found that the electrical connection is through the mounting bolts. So I took the 5mm nuts off and cleaned the copper on the circuit board with Scotch Brite, and now the clock keeps perfect time. I bet the temp and fuel gauges would benefit from the same work.
When I get to the point I pull it all apart I will definitely be cleaning every contact I can. My clock is also flaky, but the more I drive it the more it seems to work OK.
