Pretty good, considering the interior was swapped and it had some questionable wheels on at sale.

 

Not an impressive car. Mish-mosh. Agree on wheels.

 

Actually I bought this car. Besides transmission rebuild, the turbos were blowing oil. Many old parts needed replaced. Original shocks, 17-year old tires and such. Still glad that I bought it.

 

Transmission rebuild at that low of mileage? What was the damage when pulled apart? I'm just curious. My R1 had around 150K on it with the original transmission without issue. Those old rock hard tires are good burners for people that are just learning how to drift with a lower horsepower car. I'm glad to see some of these FDs go to people that will be caring for them. It's almost painful any more to see so many of these hacked up cars.

 

It was the 5th gear synchro. I well known issue with FDs as far as I know. So when the ad mentioned "The seller states that the fifth gear synchro is temperamental.", I figured rebuild. It was grindy getting into 5th. No damage according to the place that I had the rebuild done at.

 

Ok, when I hear the word rebuild I think it had a failure or was in real bad shape. 5th gear synchro is a well known issue.

 

Just wanted share some info to note as I was shopping around ~ as of today hagerty values a 93 - 95 Rx7 in mint condition @ 26,000.00 to date for insurance purposes.

 

So that would make it hard to insure one for more or would they be willing to go more? I have American Collectors Insurance and they pretty much let you name your own stated value as long as it isn't extreme from what I can tell.

 

I really can’t answer that. I believe you can name your price with them as well, but this was what they quoted as off the shelf according to their analysis.

 

You did well, a similar car just sold for 31. Turbo sports cars typically require a lot of maintenance. Once it's all fixed up you'll have a blast with it. Consider a build thread. As the miles climb the maintenance bills stack up. At approx 120k miles pretty much every part on the car is in need of rebuild/replacement

The market has finally completely dried up. Any decent FD today is probably going to cost 30k minimum. Nice ones 40k. There are always deals but it's usually someone who knows someone and you have to take a chance or move fast.

 

Good cars FS and good deals were thick on the ground about ten years ago. It really has been an incredible thing to watch. I guess all the good cars go through it.

 

Fritz "Any decent FD today is probably going to cost 30k minimum. Nice ones 40k. There are always deals but it's usually someone who knows someone and you have to take a chance or move fast." I agree with Fritz and then factor in nice and a rare color like CW or CYM and you are over 40k mark, especially if the mileage is below 50k. Seems like all the Clean low mileage cars are in the hands of people who have always wanted one and now have the means($$$$) to buy one and they aren't selling lol

 

BB On Tan 94 touring on BaT: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1994-mazda-rx-7-41/

 

Interesting choice to reuse some of the photos from the car's previous BaT listing. Don't think I would have done that.

 

I'm trying to get a feeler on what you guys think this would be valued at:
1993 RHD, clean title, manual, all stock, black on black, 38K miles, no mechanical issues, haven't check compression but suspect it should be at least 100+, clean interior/exterior.

Maybe $25-30K? Lower price mostly driven by RHD?

 

A lot of RHD cars are sold in Canada which may give you a decent idea after import adj etc....

 

I'll add that it is already US legal.

 

I just bought mine with just under 24k miles and have already had a couple offers. I've had a couple FBs and an FC over the last 18 years. This is my first FD and it's not going anywhere. I still have my first FB that I bought in '02. It sat with a blown motor for 6 years at one point so I definitely have the patience.

 

My question to you all is...

Has anyone checked with your insurance companies as to how much they will pay you if the car is totaled?

We can go get Hagerty insurance (or similar) and get a stated value policy. But I believe they will also then tell you that you can only drive your car X miles a year. I like to drive when I want to drive. and although I am under 1K a year, there are times I think about taking a long trip. Would that cancel a stated value policy?

When I ask my company how much the payout would be (I have full coverage on my car), they tell me "We can't say" and that is unacceptable..

Of course their value will depend on condition of the car and the condition of all the other cars in existence, but there should be some way of them looking in their books and saying... "Over the past 2 years, we have paid an average of X on 1994 RX7s.

Is the Kelly Blue Book the answer? They say a 1994 RX7 in Fair condition is worth about $18,000, is that what my insurance company would pay? Or anything close to it?

If they can't tell me what the ballpark of a payout is and I keep paying great premiums every year - only get $5k in the case of a totaled car. That's not acceptable.

How do you all handle this?

 

your insurance company likely uses NADA to value your car, I use hagerty and the mileage limit is something like 4k miles per year which is about 4x more than I put on the car in year so I am ok with it. for that I get a 0 deductible stated value policy that is much cheaper than a normal insurance company which will count on the 12.5k mile average.

 

When I had a car totaled, USAA told me they valued it by recent vehicles sold in the area in similar condition, year, mileage. Not sure if that is standard across the board or just them.

 

I just checked geico who I have now and it says something similar.

"How does Geico find the actual cash value of your vehicle?

• Your vehicle's mileage
• Features, add-ons, and modifications.
• Any damage before the claim incident.
• Recent sales prices of similar vehicles in your area.

 

Agreed value policy is the only way to go. Every year I increase the value a couple grand to keep up with the market. The insurance company reviews the new number and provide a quote based on that figure.

I use a broker for my insurance needs and they shop it out every year. I've had unlimited mileage policy in past but think my current policy is like 6k mi/year. If i planned on doing a long trip, like DGRR or sorts, i'd probably trailer it. Not because of the mileage but peace of mind I wont get stuck across country.

 

I'm curious.
Was that a FD totaled that USAA payed out well for?

 

My problem with those specialty companies that offer agreed value is that they always have some exclusions for coverage. Some days I wake up and decide, i'm taking the RX7 to work today. Or on the weekend, i'm taking it to the grocery store, etc. I get why they exist but I don't want to worry about how or when im driving my car.

If anybody knows of one without those, sign me up.