0 compression
07-20-09, 08:34 AM
#101
The top injectors don't come on until a higher RPM, and when the boost sensor registers a certain engine load. So don't worry about them not firing.
The resistances above are at the solenoid resistor, unplugged, like I mentioned, or are you doing something else?
Also, do me a favour... coming from the sub-zero tank, loose all the vacuum lines, the tee, the other lines after the tee, and block off the nipples they go to at the vacuum source. Take a pic. of where the two tee'd hoses end up, just to be sure nothing important is messed by the removal. I'm thinking this may not be your main problem (the car ran before all this, right?), but you may be loosing vacuum throught the sub-zero tank (because it has an overflow hose and isn't sealed).
The resistances above are at the solenoid resistor, unplugged, like I mentioned, or are you doing something else?
Also, do me a favour... coming from the sub-zero tank, loose all the vacuum lines, the tee, the other lines after the tee, and block off the nipples they go to at the vacuum source. Take a pic. of where the two tee'd hoses end up, just to be sure nothing important is messed by the removal. I'm thinking this may not be your main problem (the car ran before all this, right?), but you may be loosing vacuum throught the sub-zero tank (because it has an overflow hose and isn't sealed).
07-20-09, 08:53 AM
#102
The top injectors don't come on until a higher RPM, and when the boost sensor registers a certain engine load. So don't worry about them not firing.
The resistances above are at the solenoid resistor, unplugged, like I mentioned, or are you doing something else?
Also, do me a favour... coming from the sub-zero tank, loose all the vacuum lines, the tee, the other lines after the tee, and block off the nipples they go to at the vacuum source. Take a pic. of where the two tee'd hoses end up, just to be sure nothing important is messed by the removal. I'm thinking this may not be your main problem (the car ran before all this, right?), but you may be loosing vacuum throught the sub-zero tank (because it has an overflow hose and isn't sealed).
The resistances above are at the solenoid resistor, unplugged, like I mentioned, or are you doing something else?
Also, do me a favour... coming from the sub-zero tank, loose all the vacuum lines, the tee, the other lines after the tee, and block off the nipples they go to at the vacuum source. Take a pic. of where the two tee'd hoses end up, just to be sure nothing important is messed by the removal. I'm thinking this may not be your main problem (the car ran before all this, right?), but you may be loosing vacuum throught the sub-zero tank (because it has an overflow hose and isn't sealed).
07-20-09, 08:58 AM
#103
FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUck !
Just lost about 6 paragraphs of writing.
You have an FSM? Go to chapter 4A, follow the no start troubleshooting. Make an engine code checker (search, sorry!), check for codes. Check your water thermo sensor (it looked a little unplugged, mentioned before), and check its reisistance while unplugged. Check AFM fuel switch, FSM tells you the page under troubleshooting. I'll wait until you get back and post, for more.
I'm hoping everyone else continues to add in with their input.
Just lost about 6 paragraphs of writing.
You have an FSM? Go to chapter 4A, follow the no start troubleshooting. Make an engine code checker (search, sorry!), check for codes. Check your water thermo sensor (it looked a little unplugged, mentioned before), and check its reisistance while unplugged. Check AFM fuel switch, FSM tells you the page under troubleshooting. I'll wait until you get back and post, for more.
I'm hoping everyone else continues to add in with their input.
07-20-09, 02:11 PM
#104
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yes i checked them unplugged and i am downloading the fsm from here.i have a haynes man.i will go home and try everything it says.i have alot of time to waste today 
07-20-09, 07:45 PM
#106
From experience, the water temp sensor (behind thermostat housing) being unplugged will not cause a no-start when cold. Mine was actually plugged in, but had wires ripped out of the back just enough to where I couldn't see it, so it was plugged in, but the contacts weren't touching. It'd start cold just fine, but once it got hot, good luck starting it then.
^^ That last post. What does that mean? Does it mean it dies until you re-engage the clutch? So it's not really ever starting then, right? It just "cranks" (and I use the term crank loosely here) until you push the clutch in, then the engine just dies right away.
So you checked the secondary injectors, and they work obviously. There's an easier way of testing the primaries, and that's at the resistor box. If you understand that the injectors will have power to them constantly with the key on, and they are fired by the ecu, which pulses a ground signal to them, you can figure out how to test them at the box. Just get an LED (available at Radio-Shack) and extend the wires out. Put the anode (positive) on the positve of the battery, and the cathode (negative) end on one of the wires for the resistors. If you're getting a pulse, then it SHOULD be firing. This is only an indication of whether your injectors are getting the signal to fire or not. It's highly unlikely that BOTH primary injectors went bad at the same time, so it's pretty safe to assume that if you're getting pulse, they're probably firing.
It's important to use an LED because a normal test light will pass too much current through your ecu. The transistor firing circuit wasn't meant to handle that much.
^^ That last post. What does that mean? Does it mean it dies until you re-engage the clutch? So it's not really ever starting then, right? It just "cranks" (and I use the term crank loosely here) until you push the clutch in, then the engine just dies right away.
So you checked the secondary injectors, and they work obviously. There's an easier way of testing the primaries, and that's at the resistor box. If you understand that the injectors will have power to them constantly with the key on, and they are fired by the ecu, which pulses a ground signal to them, you can figure out how to test them at the box. Just get an LED (available at Radio-Shack) and extend the wires out. Put the anode (positive) on the positve of the battery, and the cathode (negative) end on one of the wires for the resistors. If you're getting a pulse, then it SHOULD be firing. This is only an indication of whether your injectors are getting the signal to fire or not. It's highly unlikely that BOTH primary injectors went bad at the same time, so it's pretty safe to assume that if you're getting pulse, they're probably firing.
It's important to use an LED because a normal test light will pass too much current through your ecu. The transistor firing circuit wasn't meant to handle that much.
07-20-09, 09:09 PM
#107
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when i get tow started.i put the car in first with the clutch in,when i get up to about 15 take my foot off the clutch and the tires spin and the rpms go up.but when i do tow start i can hear my exhaust,so i think it is starting.but when i push the clutch back in to shift,the rpms go all the way down and when i shift again the tires spin and it acts like it just started agian,if i keep it in first and let the rpms go as high as i can the car will smoke alot.keep in mind i am only going down the road about 1/4 of a mile.so i dont know if thats enough to get it deflooded or not,when i press on the gas when the car "starts" i dont get anymore rpms i just hear it coming out of the exhaust.but like i said previously the less gas i give it the more rpms i get.i just dont understand this car.
Last edited by feindclub; 07-20-09 at 09:19 PM. Reason: to vague
07-20-09, 11:52 PM
#108
once the engine is spinning from a push start it is going to deflood. You have more than a de-flood problem right now as either your fuel delivery, ignition system, or air metering system is not working right. The reason the rpm's go up when you push start is because you are forcing the engine to spin by having the clutch engaged and the tires are turning over the engine for you. The engine dies when you disengage the clutch (push the clutch pedal in) because you are missing the 3 elements that are needed to keep an engine running by itself (spark, fuel, air) and also the transmission, which connects to the wheels is no longer spinning the engine.
Stupid suggestion, but I do hope you have the key on the ON position while trying to push start it, otherwise you have been doing it wrong the whole time.....
You need to diagnose and make sure your air, spark, and fuel delivery systems are working properly. We haven't even heard back on your compression numbers yet, for all you know you can be trying the impossible by trying to start a blown engine. You need to first, properly do a compression test and stop wasting time doing everything else. We have posted advise on how to do it properly on the previous pages. If you did it properly and it is still at 0 with a good known working gauge and fully charged battery then don't bother with this anymore, you have a blown engine, otherwise you then need to start to diagnose your 3 systems......
Stupid suggestion, but I do hope you have the key on the ON position while trying to push start it, otherwise you have been doing it wrong the whole time.....
You need to diagnose and make sure your air, spark, and fuel delivery systems are working properly. We haven't even heard back on your compression numbers yet, for all you know you can be trying the impossible by trying to start a blown engine. You need to first, properly do a compression test and stop wasting time doing everything else. We have posted advise on how to do it properly on the previous pages. If you did it properly and it is still at 0 with a good known working gauge and fully charged battery then don't bother with this anymore, you have a blown engine, otherwise you then need to start to diagnose your 3 systems......
07-21-09, 09:27 AM
#109
^ What Agreen and JJcobm said...
Also, have someone else look at it and question everything, open hoses disconnected plugs (CAS, etc.), switched plug wires, coil connections, etc, no gas or old gas, disconnected fuel pump when you last tested it, that sort of thing. You may be so tired of dealing with this, you may be overlooking something silly and obvious. Been there, done that.
Also, have someone else look at it and question everything, open hoses disconnected plugs (CAS, etc.), switched plug wires, coil connections, etc, no gas or old gas, disconnected fuel pump when you last tested it, that sort of thing. You may be so tired of dealing with this, you may be overlooking something silly and obvious. Been there, done that.
07-21-09, 01:07 PM
#110
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ok.well my neg. post on the starter broke off last night while i was trying to clean the connections,so the only way i can start it now is tow start.i am going to try and get a new starter this week.but i was just laid off and dont have any money.could i soulder that connection for now just till i get it working?
07-21-09, 01:09 PM
#111
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also.i know i am getting fuel, and i know i am getting spark(shocked the crap out of my self) so all that can be left is air right.i am going to try to find a compression tester.im pretty sure i did it right last time but better safe than sorry.
07-21-09, 01:44 PM
#112
If the compression is truly 0, thats the end of this thread and you need to rebuild or get a new engine.....
07-21-09, 03:22 PM
#113
Just sayin'.
07-21-09, 04:56 PM
#114
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yes i have checked.and yes my plugs are wet.it must be compression.im trying to find a gauge but like i said i have no money.i can feel air coming out of the plug holes so i know i atleast have some.
07-21-09, 07:39 PM
#115
Waving a magazine in front of your face will move air, but it doesn't mean you have compression.
Does the engine even make any kind of compression noise? You can hear the difference between a healthy engine and one with bad compression. Go to your Zx2 and remove the spark plug wires and crank it. Listen to the engine as it cranks. Now remove the spark plugs and crank it. There's a difference. You can hear the resistance with compression, and without them it sounds like the starter's just spinning nothing at all.
Here's a really lame way, but foolproof. When you crank it, does it sound like:
Naaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
or
Na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na
or possibly
Na-na-NAH-na-na-NAH-na-na-NAH
???
Does the engine even make any kind of compression noise? You can hear the difference between a healthy engine and one with bad compression. Go to your Zx2 and remove the spark plug wires and crank it. Listen to the engine as it cranks. Now remove the spark plugs and crank it. There's a difference. You can hear the resistance with compression, and without them it sounds like the starter's just spinning nothing at all.
Here's a really lame way, but foolproof. When you crank it, does it sound like:
Naaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
or
Na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na
or possibly
Na-na-NAH-na-na-NAH-na-na-NAH
???
08-07-09, 04:26 PM
#117
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ok guys,i have found the inspiration to work on this car again,and this time with full force.i took off everything that had to do with intake.and turned it by hand,and now it sounds like we have some compression.it hisses at me just like you said,like a soda would.one of the ducts in the manifold were blocked by carbon build up.i beat the **** out of it so it should get air now.but just to be safe i am checking the apex seals,i took the exhaust off and turned it with my finger in a little and could feel what feels like a seal.and it feels to me like they are all there,and they are closeing the gap pretty well.but as another method of assurance i am taking the motor out and cleaning it with all new gaskets and cleaning the carbon out of it.
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