0 compression
07-03-09, 06:59 AM
#26
OH THIS METHOD IS BEYOND EXCELLENT.
I will try this on my car as well
. My biggest issue was getting the correct amount of oil in the plug holes. I noticed i got more fire after getting SOME atf in there...so maybe with more itll get the compression it needs to actually start.
I will try this on my car as well
. My biggest issue was getting the correct amount of oil in the plug holes. I noticed i got more fire after getting SOME atf in there...so maybe with more itll get the compression it needs to actually start.
07-03-09, 02:13 PM
#27
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Ok im confused about where this Vacuum hose is I should take off.
Theres a MAP sensor on these cars??
Maybe on turbo? Mines N/A. Theres a MAF but theres no vacuum line going to it...theres a vacuum line that comes off the intake PIPE and goes through some thingies and ends up at a "Denso" part N326.
Can you be more specific about which vacuum line
Theres a MAP sensor on these cars??
Maybe on turbo? Mines N/A. Theres a MAF but theres no vacuum line going to it...theres a vacuum line that comes off the intake PIPE and goes through some thingies and ends up at a "Denso" part N326.
Can you be more specific about which vacuum line
07-04-09, 04:39 PM
#29
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still having problems?
Check tour apex seals. Take off your exhaust and look at your apex points. The only 100% way. If you still have all seals intact work from there.
Check tour apex seals. Take off your exhaust and look at your apex points. The only 100% way. If you still have all seals intact work from there.
07-05-09, 11:03 AM
#30
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I tried the method and it failed 
.
I could go for broke and try to crank it with the plugs out and the throttle open and EGI out.
Maybe twice...then try your method..then try to start it..ugh..
.I could go for broke and try to crank it with the plugs out and the throttle open and EGI out.
Maybe twice...then try your method..then try to start it..ugh..
07-05-09, 04:15 PM
#31
If it won't stay running when you push start it, try turning the idle set screw out as far as you can, push start it or deflood it, then idle it down until it runs right. It's got all the symptoms of needing to be tweeked. When you get it running, try setting the idle, the tps, and timing. Also, check the spark plugs and make sure they're clean. They should be a light brown metal color, not covered in soot or soaking wet.
07-05-09, 06:37 PM
#32
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My spark plugs are a bright silver color
I clean them always before I move to the "Attempt to start" phase.
At this point they are usually red from ATF. I spray them off with starter fluid and shake them around a bit till I think they are dry then put them back in.
I clean them always before I move to the "Attempt to start" phase.
At this point they are usually red from ATF. I spray them off with starter fluid and shake them around a bit till I think they are dry then put them back in.
07-05-09, 06:43 PM
#33
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my maf sensor was not connected and the 02 sensor i have is broken.i will try the idle sensor thing tomorrow.and now the battery sounds dead all the time but i am getting 12 volts out of it and all the connections are tight???????
07-05-09, 08:31 PM
#34
A surface charge of 12v doesn't mean it's going to pump enough current to start your car. Take the cables loose and clean them up really good, charge the battery with another car, then retry.
On another note, I'm pretty sure you do need the MAF to start, but the O2 isn't vital for starting. All it does is fine tune the fuel mixture.
On another note, I'm pretty sure you do need the MAF to start, but the O2 isn't vital for starting. All it does is fine tune the fuel mixture.
07-06-09, 12:26 PM
#36
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i have air coming out of the plug holes.and i will try another battery today.i have a spare.and i have pics of all the stuff that is not hooked up.how do i post them
07-06-09, 05:17 PM
#39
pretty sure the last pic is the fuel pump test connector ( doesnt connect to anything)
the 3rd one is some sort of temperature sensor ( non-critical)
the black wire with the red connector goes to the O2 sensor ( non-critical)
maybe someone else can help with the rest?
the 3rd one is some sort of temperature sensor ( non-critical)
the black wire with the red connector goes to the O2 sensor ( non-critical)
maybe someone else can help with the rest?
07-06-09, 06:21 PM
#41
I have an s5, this looks like an s4 layout though I will try to identify what I can:
First picture:
you have the 02 sensor, should be hooked up to the ecu/engine harness.
Question marked hose, looks like a heater hose, can't really tell from the angle though...
The small hose looks like it could be for your auxilary ports actuator, can't tell from the angle
Second Picture:
You just have the hose coming off the evaporative canister, on the passenger side, its normal
Third Picture:
Not sure, previous post mentioned possible temp sensor. Could this be the water thermosensor? If it is, it would give you start problems if not connected.... Look for a sensor with missing plug....
Fourth:
Looks like the big hose from the air control valve. It could be the one that comes from the passenger side of the car and into the ACV, or the hose from the airpump to the ACV
Fifth:
Fuel pump wire, you jump those and you manual turn on the fuel pump.....
First picture:
you have the 02 sensor, should be hooked up to the ecu/engine harness.
Question marked hose, looks like a heater hose, can't really tell from the angle though...
The small hose looks like it could be for your auxilary ports actuator, can't tell from the angle
Second Picture:
You just have the hose coming off the evaporative canister, on the passenger side, its normal
Third Picture:
Not sure, previous post mentioned possible temp sensor. Could this be the water thermosensor? If it is, it would give you start problems if not connected.... Look for a sensor with missing plug....
Fourth:
Looks like the big hose from the air control valve. It could be the one that comes from the passenger side of the car and into the ACV, or the hose from the airpump to the ACV
Fifth:
Fuel pump wire, you jump those and you manual turn on the fuel pump.....
07-06-09, 09:34 PM
#42
The wire there goes to another temperature sensor that sits on top of the coolant neck. I have never had it plugged in on either of my cars, maybe it just activates a warning light or something?
07-07-09, 12:02 AM
#43
looks like...
Pic 1:
bottom right: 6PI system hose cut
bottom middle - o2 sensor cut (you should never splice or fix this wire <it's a shielded wire>, need new sensor)
bottom left - vacuum to brake booster
middle - vaccum tee isn't stock but can't see where it goes
pic 2:
top left -o2 sensor wire
top right - 6PI as mentioned
hose coming from bottom - evaporator into atmosphere (should be as it is in pic.)
pic 3:
arrow points to wire harness hold down bracket, the coolant temp sensor is obviously plugged in
pic 4:
looks like hose that goes to split-air pipe (pipe that feeds air to main cat). this should be plugged if not used or you'll have a vacuum leak when you let off the gas.
pic 5:
fuel pump check connector. will turn on fuel pump when jumpered, with ignition on.
None of the above is your biggest problem right now. Focus on why you're not getting compression. Use a working gauge, screw it tight and make sure air is not blowing by at that point. I feel I should repeat...one spark plug of the chamber you're testing should be in, and the tester on the other one. You can leave both spark plugs in on the chamber you're not testing. Make sure the battery is good and charged. Throttle all the way open.
As previous poster said...what led you to this situation?
BTW, going back a bit here...feed some compressed air to the gauge to see if it moves.
Pic 1:
bottom right: 6PI system hose cut
bottom middle - o2 sensor cut (you should never splice or fix this wire <it's a shielded wire>, need new sensor)
bottom left - vacuum to brake booster
middle - vaccum tee isn't stock but can't see where it goes
pic 2:
top left -o2 sensor wire
top right - 6PI as mentioned
hose coming from bottom - evaporator into atmosphere (should be as it is in pic.)
pic 3:
arrow points to wire harness hold down bracket, the coolant temp sensor is obviously plugged in
pic 4:
looks like hose that goes to split-air pipe (pipe that feeds air to main cat). this should be plugged if not used or you'll have a vacuum leak when you let off the gas.
pic 5:
fuel pump check connector. will turn on fuel pump when jumpered, with ignition on.
None of the above is your biggest problem right now. Focus on why you're not getting compression. Use a working gauge, screw it tight and make sure air is not blowing by at that point. I feel I should repeat...one spark plug of the chamber you're testing should be in, and the tester on the other one. You can leave both spark plugs in on the chamber you're not testing. Make sure the battery is good and charged. Throttle all the way open.
As previous poster said...what led you to this situation?
BTW, going back a bit here...feed some compressed air to the gauge to see if it moves.
07-07-09, 11:56 AM
#45
There's a vacuum cap just between the ? and the arrow, or you can use the vacuum line at the bottom right corner of the picture. The vacuum cap is preferred, but you need some more 5/32" vacuum hose, but if you follow the vacuum line I pointed out, it goes to the MAP sensor, where you can unplug it and dunk in some thin oil. I guess Mazda calls it the boost sensor, but that's gay because N/A's... well, you get the point. In the real world, it's called a MAP sensor.
And none of that crap that's disconnected/broken/whatever is causing your starting problem. Good finds, though, and you should get that fixed, but not right now. Focus on getting it started.
07-07-09, 04:52 PM
#47
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i have compression,i know this because there is air coming out of the holes.the tester works fine just wont give me a reading.i will try it agian on saturday when i have money.i need to just buy one.but i got the car tow started again last night and like i said it revs now.and the less gas i give it the more rpms i get????
07-07-09, 05:01 PM
#48
If the rpms are just sitting high up or bouncing, you have a vacuum leak somewhere. If the car starts up fine now though, time to fix all the things pointed out in the pictures, but first thing is check the compression to give you an idea where you are sitting at, make sure to do it with one spark plug on the housing and the other one will go to the compression tester. Just in case you are confused, when we say have one spark plug in, we are talking about vertically, that is one in the top, tester on the bottom....
07-07-09, 06:12 PM
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the fact that it wont start. and i have tried every deflooding procedure i have been told.the car trys but it just wont do anything.just alot of smoke and very spontaneous pops