thats what the gauge tells me.on all spark plug holes.but i can feel alot of air coming out of them when i take the gauge out and try to start it.the car sounds like it wants to start.it pops every few seconds and when it pops i can see smoke coming out the back.i need help quick please.i have tried starting fluid,taking out egi fuse,putting egi fuse back,disconnecting fuel pump when starting,new gas,new fuel filter,new plugs,new oil,tow starting(the only way it will start)and when i stop the car it dies and wont start again. any help would be great.and i have tried the tranny fluid in the plug holes to.

 

might sound like a stupid question but are you trying the tester in only one trailing and leaving the rest in?

 

http://rotaryresurrection.com/2ndgen...ion_check.html

Make sure you are doing the test correctly and the tester is screwed in tightly. 0 compression usually means a bad seal which needs an engine rebuild. There is no way for a sensore to go bad and the motor have 0 compression. A compression test is a test of mechanical components of the engine, not fuel system or sensors

 

funny how some say trailing, and some say leading, but there is no difference in the values and you can use either.

 

i did the test just like you described only i didnt pull the egi fuse,would it make that big of a difference

 

the egi fuse prevents fuel or spark going to the engine while you are testing.. Take out the fuse and do it the right way...

 

ok i will do this tomorrow after i get off work.when i did it i had the fuel pump disconnected and the spark plug wires off.all the plugs were out infact and i also had the tps disconnected.

 

hmm.. if you had your fuel pump disconnected i would say you already got a good reading... although its better that you double check it rather than take the motor out for no reason. THe EGI fuse takes literally 3 seconds to take out. Did you do the other rotor? what kind of compression did you get for that?..

 

i also got 0 on that one.to me that seems odd that i would have 0 on both.but when i got it the plugs were mixed up and the t1 wire was going to t2 and vice versa

 

very strange.. i would do it again..

 

ALL spark plugs out? Put the top 2 back in, remove EGI fuse, retest.

 

Hold your finger over the spark plug hole. if it doens't get pushed off, you have 0 compression.

I know its very misleading.

On my 87 n/a. My rear rotor blew. I had true dual header and exhaust fully seperated. I felt lots of wind comming out of the rear rotor pipe and every one and a while it would fire or backfire but thats just the gas buildup lighting.

Don't put a tester on and listen, if you don't hear anything then its 0. If you put your finger on it and it doesn't feel any pressure, 0 (or very little, it should push your finger off and let air escape)

 

I had what I thought were 3 strong pulses, turns out they were pretty much zero as well, but he says he had all the plugs out- thats no good for a test.

 

Another thing to check for, other than having all plugs out at the same time while doing the test, is the tester itself. Perhaps the needle is stuck at 0. Try it on a vehicle with known compression, so you can be sure it is reading pressure.

 

thats just weird. i would think its a faulty tester!
that cant be right.

 

i tried with top plugs in,then with bottom plugs in,still nothing.i tried it on my zx2 sr and it works.but the car spits out alot of air and it is trying soooo hard to start.but it just wontit sputters and shakes but just wont start.a ton of smoke comes out though.

 

Search for deflooding procedure.

 

i have tried every deflooding trick i could find.it gets better every day though.today it shook and sputtered and kinda started.

 

If you are doing the test right, and you really do have 0 compression. That is usually a definate rebuild

 

I'm still skeptical on the whole 0 compression on all faces of both rotors. I watched a guy that I work with tear down an engine because he had 0 compression on all cylinders, and it turned out he had a faulty compression gauge, and the rotor button on the distrubutor was loose and spinning, causing a no-start that even SOUNDED like no compression.

Now, I'm not saying that your gauge is faulty, you've confirmed that it works. However, knowing what I know about rotaries, I know they flood easily, and sometimes people just don't have that magic touch when it comes to deflooding. I've rescued countless people from parking lots at far-away places because their rotary flooded. They tried the "ATF trick", no luck. I drive to them, do my deflood procedure, and in minutes they're pumping smoke, on the road again.

Try this. Reinstall your spark plugs and wires. Remove EGI fuse. Remove the vacuum hose at the MAP sensor. Stick that hose in a bottle of thin oil. ATF, marvel mystery oil, air tool oil, I don't care, just something. Crank the car for a minimum of 15 seconds. Count One1thousand, etc. Trust me, it's a long time. Now, remove the vacuum hose from the INTAKE. That way, you can verify that oil got sucked in if oil is dripping out the end of the hose. Now, put the hose back where it goes on the intake and MAP sensor. Let the starter cool for a couple minutes. Crank it again for at least 10 seconds now. Replace the EGI fuse, let the starter cool again. Fire in the hole. If it doesn't start within a minute of cranking, then I'll accept defeat.

Just give it a shot. Nothing to lose but about 15 minutes and a little oil... again.

 

^^ i'd try that before pulling the motor as well!

 

i am going home now to try this.i just pull started it again.and now she REVS!!!!!!! but still dies when i stop. but im going now and will be back to post an update.

 

""""let out on the valve now, and let the tester reach an overall compression value for all 3 faces(highest of 3 will be displayed). 115+ is like new, 100-115 is healthy, 90-100 is getting weak(1 year or less in most cases) below 90 could blow at any moment.""""
.
is this true for all rotary's turbo and N/A?
What are the compression readings for 13bt supposed to be?

 

OH THIS METHOD IS BEYOND EXCELLENT.

I will try this on my car as well . My biggest issue was getting the correct amount of oil in the plug holes. I noticed i got more fire after getting SOME atf in there...so maybe with more itll get the compression it needs to actually start.

 

below 90 blow at any moment NO cause my TII has 90 in the front rotor and 82 in the rear and iam on 7lbs of boost daily and its been like this for half a year so far.

blow at any moment.


HHAHAA