0 compression
07-07-09, 06:21 PM
#52
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: dow,il
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
no i bought it from a guy who said it had been sitting for 3 months and that it would not start due to water in the fuel.so i drained it and cleaned the tank.ran new fuel trough the lines.new plugs,new battery and of course no start.i also bought a new fuel pump because i thought the old one was broke,turns out it was a fuse. DUH!!! but thats one less thing i have to worry about.i got the car for 500 and there is no rust or dents anywhere and the interior is perfect so i thought maybe i got a good deal.but like i said it runs when i tow start it,but when the truck stops i stop. the car dies anytime i push the clutch in and it dies when its not moving.
07-07-09, 08:29 PM
#53
well now that is a much different story then what you said on the previous page:
"the fact that it wont start. and i have tried every deflooding procedure i have been told.the car trys but it just wont do anything.just alot of smoke and very spontaneous pops "
you may want to do the correct compression test first before you spend anymore time on it
If not have you tried this procedure? This has worked for me for cars I have bought that sat for YEARS, you will know if its flooded bad from smelling the oil.
What you want to do is get MMO and a funnel, the type of funnels for automatic transmissions with the flexible end works well.
Remove leading plugs and put a few drops in , remove EGI fuse under the hood, crank a little bit, put a few more drops in, crank a little again.
Let it sit a day or so.
Crank the engine again to get that MMO to spit out a little bit.
Put the plugs back in.
Put fuse back in, have someone crank the car over, if it does not start within 5-7 seconds remove the fuse, crank until it starts, once it starts put the fuse back in.
The key is to not flood the engine. I have found its best to crank the engine with a battery charger on jump setting.
Let it run for a good 20 minutes to clear it out, take it for a ride and try to get the engine revving.
Let it cool down and put fresh plugs in, perform oil change.
"the fact that it wont start. and i have tried every deflooding procedure i have been told.the car trys but it just wont do anything.just alot of smoke and very spontaneous pops "
you may want to do the correct compression test first before you spend anymore time on it
If not have you tried this procedure? This has worked for me for cars I have bought that sat for YEARS, you will know if its flooded bad from smelling the oil.
What you want to do is get MMO and a funnel, the type of funnels for automatic transmissions with the flexible end works well.
Remove leading plugs and put a few drops in , remove EGI fuse under the hood, crank a little bit, put a few more drops in, crank a little again.
Let it sit a day or so.
Crank the engine again to get that MMO to spit out a little bit.
Put the plugs back in.
Put fuse back in, have someone crank the car over, if it does not start within 5-7 seconds remove the fuse, crank until it starts, once it starts put the fuse back in.
The key is to not flood the engine. I have found its best to crank the engine with a battery charger on jump setting.
Let it run for a good 20 minutes to clear it out, take it for a ride and try to get the engine revving.
Let it cool down and put fresh plugs in, perform oil change.
07-08-09, 09:03 AM
#55
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: dow,il
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When I am being towed and I floor it the car revs up but when I take my foot off the gas it revs higher.and I have tried procedures like this but will try it again
07-08-09, 04:18 PM
#58
No one's commented on this yet. Switching the trailing plug wires will make the trailing plugs fire very early in the compression stroke; even before the leading plugs fire. If the car was run like this, under any kind of load, pre-ignition/detonation is almost guaranteed. While 0 compression on all 6 faces is unlikely, it wouldn't surprise me if the engine has very little compression. Combine that with a fuel system that's full of rust due to water being mixed in, and you've got a car that refuses to start.
07-08-09, 06:06 PM
#59
Out of 4 FCs I have purchased that had "bad" engines, I got them all running- and STILL run today.
Out of all 4- every single one of them had the firing order messed up.
What happens is the cars initially flood, then the owners who have no knowledge of the car start messing with ****, this usually involves them turning screws such as the TPS thinking its idle, in other words everything is a mess.
GOING OVER THE BASICS is how you get the car running.
The FIRST step is performing a ACCURATE and proper compression test, otherwise you are pissing up a rope.
Out of all 4- every single one of them had the firing order messed up.
What happens is the cars initially flood, then the owners who have no knowledge of the car start messing with ****, this usually involves them turning screws such as the TPS thinking its idle, in other words everything is a mess.
GOING OVER THE BASICS is how you get the car running.
The FIRST step is performing a ACCURATE and proper compression test, otherwise you are pissing up a rope.
07-09-09, 05:45 PM
#65
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: dow,il
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok.i have the mmo in the car now.went to crank if for a bit and the battery is dead.i left the hatch open a little bit.charging now and will update tomorrow morning at the latest.
07-09-09, 06:11 PM
#66
make sure you confirm the battery is good as well, load test it or use a known to be good battery for your tests.
When I left my vert sit for a year the battery, which was only a little over a year old, would not start the car no matter how much I charged it, it would sound like it wanted to start, but only until a fresh battery went in did it work.
When I left my vert sit for a year the battery, which was only a little over a year old, would not start the car no matter how much I charged it, it would sound like it wanted to start, but only until a fresh battery went in did it work.
07-10-09, 11:41 AM
#67
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: dow,il
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i just tried a new battery and its doing the same thing.so i cut the wires to where they were clean and shiny,same thing.and is the car supposed to crank even when i dont push the clutch in.
07-10-09, 03:11 PM
#68
No, but irrelevant to your problem. Did you check your MAF flappy? Mine flooded constantly because I was retarded and sucked in a bunch of water in my.. uh.. custom cold air intake (where the passenger's brake cooling duct goes). Didn't harm the engine, but overnight it apparently corroded internally, making the flapper stick slightly open. Computer was thinking there was a ton of air entering at idle, so it would flood while running at idle, then lean out really bad above that.
I was lucky though, and had an SAFC and wideband, so I could see all that happening.
I was lucky though, and had an SAFC and wideband, so I could see all that happening.
07-10-09, 08:31 PM
#70
Jesus....
If you have a stock airbox, it's right where the intake pipe (part that goes to the throttle body) meets with the airbox.
Just disassemble it, stick your finger in there and feel if the flapper is hard to move, or if it has rough spots as it moves.
This is just one simple thing that can be done. I think Rob XX 7 has a good point too. People do screw with things when they can't figure them out. Especially the TPS setscrew. Unfortunately, you can't adjust it cold, but it could be out of whack. Also, try adjusting the timing. You CAN check this cold. Just line up the crank pulley with the peg on the front cover. There's 2 notches on the pulley, use the one to the right. Pull the CAS out, line up the dot on the gear with the tab on the body of the CAS. Put the CAS back in without turning the gear, tighten the bolt down, crank again.
The FSM has the procedure:
http://www.rx7city.com/Manuals/88%20...ISSIONS_NA.pdf
On another note, mine also wouldn't start once due to bad coolant temp sensor wiring. It's a bear to get to (behind the thermostat housing). There's a million things that could go wrong.
If you have a stock airbox, it's right where the intake pipe (part that goes to the throttle body) meets with the airbox.
Just disassemble it, stick your finger in there and feel if the flapper is hard to move, or if it has rough spots as it moves.
This is just one simple thing that can be done. I think Rob XX 7 has a good point too. People do screw with things when they can't figure them out. Especially the TPS setscrew. Unfortunately, you can't adjust it cold, but it could be out of whack. Also, try adjusting the timing. You CAN check this cold. Just line up the crank pulley with the peg on the front cover. There's 2 notches on the pulley, use the one to the right. Pull the CAS out, line up the dot on the gear with the tab on the body of the CAS. Put the CAS back in without turning the gear, tighten the bolt down, crank again.
The FSM has the procedure:
http://www.rx7city.com/Manuals/88%20...ISSIONS_NA.pdf
On another note, mine also wouldn't start once due to bad coolant temp sensor wiring. It's a bear to get to (behind the thermostat housing). There's a million things that could go wrong.
07-11-09, 11:33 AM
#72
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: dow,il
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok the flapper was stuck shut.i got it free now,but the car wont start.theres a clicking sound from under the dash right under the steering wheel.so i got under there and found where its coming from,it looks like a relay,and there is 2 more connectors not hooked up are they supposed to be like that
07-11-09, 08:50 PM
#74
Stuck shut?!! It does move freely through the FULL range of motion though, right?
See, the AFM has the fuel pump switch INSIDE it. So when the flapper slightly opens (due to the car being started, i.e. air goes through it), it kicks the fuel pump on. So if it was stuck shut, it wouldn't even turn the pump on. So you've probably been deflooding the **** out of the car for no reason now
Leave the MAF hooked up to the hose, keep the air box off so you can see the MAF flapper move while the car cranks.
Relays clicking under the steering wheel is an odd issue. Does your battery still have a full charge? If no, it could be making the relays click.
See, the AFM has the fuel pump switch INSIDE it. So when the flapper slightly opens (due to the car being started, i.e. air goes through it), it kicks the fuel pump on. So if it was stuck shut, it wouldn't even turn the pump on. So you've probably been deflooding the **** out of the car for no reason now
Leave the MAF hooked up to the hose, keep the air box off so you can see the MAF flapper move while the car cranks.
Relays clicking under the steering wheel is an odd issue. Does your battery still have a full charge? If no, it could be making the relays click.
I can picture that.....