Not really forgetting it so much as getting the timing for braking wrong. That corner was a nightmare (and the station where I was working so I have no excuse) because it was all polished ice with some slop on top. Enter too slow and you spin when the front tires hook the grade crossover, enter at too steep of an angle and you push wide and scare the corner workers. I was trying for some extra momentum but it wasn't working out. I only did that corner to my satisfaction once.

Still won my class, though Two Miatas, two drivers in a Mustang GT, and fideltiy101 in his FC.

I tried washing it today and my favorite coin-op stopped heating their water. I have frozen soap on the car now and can't rinse it off.

 

At least now they make it easy to re-post the listing.. just a few clicks does it.

 

Put in fc plugs in the leading positions to complement my recent 2g coil, went on a 40 mile 2 lane loop, and schemed on freeing up my exhaust in anticipation of more intake. The mathematics of freezing temps and arthritic joints kept me from jacking the car and measuring for same.

 

Finally finished removing the oil line to the oil cooler from the front of the engine on the GSL-SE. I found a way where I didn't have to remove the front bracket as was suggested by others. I hacksawed off part of the old fitting at the narrowest point between the hose crimp and the fitting nut and I was able to get a box end wrench on it. I think a socket would have worked too but I didn't have to try it so I can't be certain.

I had purchased the Mazdatrix stainless hose set and the short hose from the front of the engine to the top of the oil cooler was a perfect fit. The longer hose from the side of the engine to the bottom of the oil cooler was another story. I have it on the car but I am not happy at all. The hose is under tension and the fitting at the bottom of the oil cooler is touching the bottom corner of the radiator. There is a lip on the radiator that I am going to remove and see if this gives enough clearance to make me think it wont break something the first time I hit a bump.

Had a warm weekend and enjoyed driving the EV RX-7 around town. I did not drive like a teenager and managed a MPGe of about 114. My weekend of driving around town (40.7 miles) cost me $1.46 in electricity instead of the approximate $8 it would have in gasoline (18mpg and $3.61 gas price). I still need an alignment and I have something wrong with the right rear wheel. Warped rotor or bent axle is my best guess. Get those sorted out and my driving costs could go down by 20-30% even if I drive it like a drunken teenager <grin>.

 

Doug that doesn't sound right - I havent done the SS oil lines (yet) but almost everything I've got from Mazdatrix has been factory spec perfect fit. Maybe check to see if the lines are reversed or on backwards?

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I didn't get NEARLY enough done this past weekend. Interruptions and forced social interactions with other humans hindered what could have been a solid weekend of RX-7 geekery.

Despite this, I continued cleaning and de-rusting the interior. about 9/10 of the way done. I have a nasty cancer spot growing around the gear shift hole, so I'll get that cleaned up and sealed with some silicone caulk until its time to service the tranny next, then solve the leak properly.

The only other spot that had really bad rust was the ECU mount and cover plate. So - ground that down and shot it with Rust Tough. Better than new!

Cut the speaker mounts out of 3/4" MDF and began test fitting. Will have 5.25" up front and 6.75" in the back, both in stock location. I will be doing a little bit of audiophile maths and calculating ideal box volume and port diameter, then modifying the inner wallspace of the chassis to spec. I'm thinking I may need to fill the walls with stuffing here to get the ideal perceived volume (cubic inch, not SPL). I'm thinking expanding foam to seal the chamber at a specific volume.

 

I have not been autocrossing for years--not since my FC and M3 days. One of my Miata co-workers invited me to an event so I need to dust off the autocross skills. I have race tires that are two years old sitting out in the weather that I'm afraid to put on the track at high-speed (one has a slash due to an off-track detour). However, burning them up at an autocross sounds like just the thing.

 

Yeah, that's a blessing. So jeg, I'm curious, when you removed your side moldings, was the paint under the moldings the same color as the rest of the car? I really like the look of a sans-molding 1st gen, but I'm scared to death that the paint isn't going to match after 30 years.

fm

 

Last night, I removed the right WATT link from the GSL-SE axle sitting on jack stands in my garage. The bushing was in surprisingly good shape. I'm wondering if the bushes on the car are in that good of shape? With 300K miles on the chassis, I suspect not.

I also started removing the pinstriping on the car. That stuff really dates it. Got about 1/3 of the front fender done. It'll be slow-going with a razor blade, but it works well.

My rear brake pad shims arrive today, so I'll be out in the garage loading the rear calipers on my GSL-SE axle. Then I just need to save for front shocks and springs all around and I'll be ready to do the whole swap.

fm

 

I honestly couldn't tell you man. I bought the car like that and I'm assuming they were removed before it was repainted. If you were going to paint the car I'd definitely remove them.. but I'd also be scared to do so after 30 years if I wasn't planning on painting.

 

There is really only one way it can go together and fit at all. The only possibility for error would be front hose to bottom of oil cooler instead of top. If you do that then the bypass valve in the oil cooler would not work. I've got the Haynes, Clymer, Chilton and two copies of the FSM and I verified that I have the hoses on correctly. It is possible it is something else that is assembled incorrectly. All it would take would be for the oil cooler to be too high. Or if the radiator was replaced at some point and it isn't an exact replacement. I don't see any evidence that either of these is true.

I've bought a lot of stuff from Mazdatrix and of all of them the SS oil cooler lines are hands down the best looking. I am going to call Mazdatrix tomorrow and see if they can shed any light on what could be wrong. I will try to take some pictures this weekend and post here. The kit is really high quality, and the hoses look like they are exactly the correct length. There is just a little clearance problem on one fitting.

So what I did today was look though the manuals to see if I did anything wrong.

 

Does your oil cooler have slightly angled fittings and does your radiator have a dented side to clear the lines? That is the difference with GSL-SE parts.

 

Drove it to work for the first time in a long time.

Realized that I'm about 800 miles away from rolling over 100,000 miles! Car is getting old.

 

The oil cooler does have slightly angled fittings, at least the bottom fitting is slightly angled down. There is plenty of clearance for the front hose to the top fitting. I never really tried to look to see how that hose passes the radiator to get to the top fitting. It seems that you must be correct about a dented side. (Dented is not the correct term as it makes it sounds like it was damaged.) But the bottom left corner of the radiator is what is in the way of the rear hose. And it isn't really even in the way. I was able to hook it up. It is just under tension and touching the bottom corner of the radiator. I am pretty sure I could fill it up with oil and drive it around like this. I just don't think it would last like this. If I was at home I would try to take a look again. Since the motor front hose to the top cooler just worked so perfectly I didn't pay any attention.

Thanks for the comment.

 

The GSL-SE oil cooler has the fittings angle to the outside of the car by about 5 degrees. That and a flattened spot on the radiator are how they were able to front-mount the unit.

I'm thinking that you may have a 12A unit in the car. It's not a detriment other than the fitment issue.

 

Had major plans to finish the Hushmat install. Instead the irritation from a chaotic garage got to me and spent the afternoon tidying. Everything in its right place.




I vacumned out a good chunk of needles back here, pretty sure they were clogging up the drains near the front. Next test will be to run water through here and see if it drains outside or inside the car!

Oh, and managed to snap the T connectors for the washer fluid. Oh well, I wanted to replace that tubing anyways, this stuff is stained yellow from age.

 

Not necessarily sir, Why are those fancy pants 6 port sleeves not inside your 5th and 6th ports

 

Can you point to where the drain is in the cowl? Mine is a bit rusty and dirty and I can't find where the water is supposed to drain. I find that the passenger foot area is getting wet and wonder if it's because of the dirty cowl. And yes, I also broke the t-connection when taking things apart.

 

Well, the fb is hibernating for the winter, but I got to try my hand at ice racing last weekend. Good fun.

'05 Audi allroad on $60.00 Craigs List Blizzaks. Beat all the Subarus and Evos, came in 3rd out of 34 cars. I think I could learn to like this. lol.

 

I wish I worked on my car as much as I browsed this forum because then i would have two running 7's but oh well.

This weekend I installed a few new parts on my SA trying to get it up and running. I put in new exhaust manifold gasket, new copper exhaust nuts w/ attached washers from Pineapple Racing, new fuel hoses, and connected most of the electrical.

What i need to do to get done to get it running is find the metal spring that goes in the lower radiator hose, attach the throttle cable and a few vacuum hoses to the carb, fill with fluids and hope it starts

 

Last night I wrapped up my GSL-SE axle prep by loading the brake calipers with some Hawk HP+ pads. Stupid reman Nastra reman caliper wouldn't close because the piston was still out. No brake piston tool in my tool box, so I tried my hand at it with a couple of wrenches. Wouldn't budge. Said f*k it and got the old caliper out and tried turning the piston in...turned just fine. Nothing really wrong with that caliper...just dirty with age. I used the old caliper and shipped the Nastra back to Rock Auto for a refund.

Tonight I responded to a CL ad selling 3 12A short blocks (including a ported 12A) and a sweet stock port 13B. The whole lot came with a nice rotary engine stand, a RB 12A street header, a modified Nikki carb (not sure which yet...either a Yaw or Sterling), and a Weber downdraft carb setup. I won't say what I paid, but suffice it to say that the Weber alone made it worth the trip. But my back is sore.

Then I explained to my wife why there are 5 rotary engines sitting in the garage.

fm

 

I'm going EFI in a few weeks, will install them then

This picture is looking towards the passenger side, left is front. Bottom left of the cowl is where the drain is. Mine was totally blocked off on both sides. To get to the drivers side (without taking out the wiper motor) I had to use a long skinny vacuum end.

 

Today I almost shed a tear as I pulled my fender off my wheel. As someone overnight had smashed my fender, bumper and other bits. Luckily I don't have to cry cause they left their info and an insurance claim has been started. Thank goodness the rain had left just enough of the note to barely make out their phone #. Sad

 

My 1985 RX7, 12A, purchased in California, by my aunt in 1985. She gave it to me in 2003 and I let it sit 2005 until now due to carburetor issues. Trying to get her to run but mechanic says carb can't be rebuilt, he's tried. I can't find a new or used carb so does that mean there is no hope for my baby? What can I do? Any suggestions?

 

Try and call 503-829-6054 They seem to be very helpful, probably have one at a reasonable price.

 

You can post a "want to buy" ad in the for sale section of the forum or you can buy a weber dcoe or ida. One carburetor should never stop you.

I didn't do anything with the old girl today. I did take my corolla down to an automotive shop to have my ac looked at because it no longer blows cold. I traveled alone with no second ride to take me home. I waited around for 6 hours till they were able to pull the car in. In under 5 minutes they told me that it's due to an electrical issue and that they couldn't fix it until their electrical guy was in. Screwed up my whole day.