installed new spark plug wires, dizzy cap and rotor. runs noticeably smoother, less stutter in idle, revs ever so slightly smoother.

 

a few weeks ago, I picked up a pro7 12-A motor, built by 7only at buttonwillow race track for dirt cheap. Motor was sitting for 3years but secured. The seller bought it from his buddywho wrecked his race car, motor has less than one day of track time.

Then i traded it with a friend for his streetported 12-A with carbon seals, off his race car. Motor was dynoed at 165 with 48 IDA with 36 venturies. Im sure i will get more than that. Will install in my sons FB next sunday so we can have fun during 7stock at willowsprings


Deals like this only happens once in a blue moon lol

 

Bought my car a jar of aquarium charcoal, and a foam filter for a window air conditioner.

 

guess it may be close enough?

 

I've seen threads in other car forums where aquarium charcoal was used successfully in evap canister refills, some reporting good operation for years.

Since I'm reworking this thing in an easily-disassembled form, it's easy enough to experiment some.

The AC foam filter turned out to be a little larger-pore than I expected, but also slightly thicker, so it may even out. Looks to me like the purpose of the foam is to prevent the fiber elements from getting too dust-clogged, and also to provide for some expansion on the part of the carbon if it gets wetted by fuel or condensation.

It also cost 97 cents, so pretty low-risk to experiment with it. Thus far, total project cost counting hardware and expended cut-off disks is still south of $25.

That'll change when I have to buy a brazing torch for the final finished version, but I never count general-purpose tools against a specific project.

 

Well at $25 sounds like the ROI will be worth it ... am looking forward to see the re attachment plan

 

Does staring at the engine bay for close to 15 minutes because I can't find the OMP linkage count?

 

If I wasn't worried about aesthetics, I'd just use pop rivets, heh.

Already thinking through Rev B in my mind, but Rev A will be a dozen countersunk flathead 10-24 screws brazed flush through the holes made during the weld-drilling process.

I'd prefer PEM studs, but I don't have that technology option.

I figure to fill in the screw head slots while brazing, and then grind/sand flush before priming and repainting.

Absolutely... heck, just staring at it for 15 minutes counts!

PS, did you find it yet? Or do you need a hint?

 

Lol I know its at the front of the carb near the bottom... I'm just not sure what it looks like >.<

 

I may have a pic... wait one:

Dead center, just behind the white plastic cap in this pic: (air pump removed in this pic)


Reinstalling my hairpin clip (stock uses cotter pins; I find these easier):

 

Awesome thanks Divin! turns out the part I was staring at trying to determine if that's what I was looking for, was the right part afterall! I can totally blame it on women's intuition right?

I'm switching a lot of stuff from my manual FB over to my auto, which is why I was looking for it Auto is missing the omp linkage

 

so i sold my brown rx-7 to a good friend of mines and we have been working a lot on it, this is a before and current picture

now


I still have my silver one and blue one, and i am working on a fuel related issue one the silver one, here is a pic of all 3 together.



now since i sold my brown one, i went to look at this to fill that space LOL

 

Yesterday I re-installed my gas tank after getting it back from being cleaned and sealed. Today I installed my new Performance Products fuel pressure regulator with an Autometer pressure gauge. I also installed a new Carter 4594 fuel pump.

 

almost got run off the road by a guy in a minivan
aside from that, i topped up the tank, and i had a bunch of little kids at a bus stop pointing and waving at me, gave it a little rev for them, goes to show little kids have good taste in cars

 

Well today my 7 actually left me stranded in a Walmart parking lot. First time in 6 years a car left me stuck somewhere. I knew the problem was electrical as i was getting sparking from the ignition switch but no power. After a bit of messing around it blew the main fusible link proving there was a short. Called in a flatbed and got the car home.

Took apart the steering column cover and the problem was immediately apparent. The contact set thats controlled by the key switch had come apart and one of the contacts shorted on the casing. Contacts all looked good and all the parts were there, just the plastic cap came off due to a bad repair likely for the same problem in the past. I put it all back together and crimped the housing down a bit better to hold the cap better and it works great again. Just gotta replace the fusible link and all will be good.

 

sA7, ur electrical wires to the pump looks unsecured and is dangling. I would use wire loom or fuel line slit in half plus zip tie

 

I luv.the root beer brown gslse

 

On the SA's (don't know if also true for FB's) the factory assembly of the steering column included several wraps of electrical tape from the rear face of the switch cap, all the way around the column. It was probably there to insulate the contacts on the cap & for cable retention, but it also added some tension to keep the cap in place should the tabs work loose.

PIC:

 

That electrical tape was long gone and my fusible link might have been spared if it was still there. I will tape it back up before i reassemble. Thanks DivinDriver.

 

I took the picture before I was completely done securing everything nice and close to the body. It's all good now.

 

found some nice little rust holes in the roof where the sunroof sits. previous owner just bondo'd over them, then the paint bubbled and chipped. had to put duct tape over them when it rained, but when it dried up i hit the rusty areas with por-15. don't really know what to do with them now based on my budget of broke college student also trying to figure out why my drivers window won't roll up properly. i have to keep pushing it back. oh, and one of the fittings on my fmoc is leaking, meaning i have to keep a closer eye on the oil levels until i get it fixed. one positive thing though, i DESTROYED a poseur in a pos acura

 

The driver's window issue is probably a misaligned window track, or a possibly bad bushing on the regulator.

 

I dented my poor gsl today sat on the front end (not the hood, the piece inbetween the hood and the bumper, I forget what it's called) and I guess I was too close to the headlight so now there's a dent where the headlight pops up.

I THINK I can just pop it back out with a little effort? If not no biggie, he's going up on CL for $300, one more little dent won't hurt lol

 

after they were caught outside in the rain while dialing in the alignment on one of the guys GSL ....
was time for washing them both up and get them nestled back inside

 

Front Valence Panel.

Accessible from below by removing the grille (5 philips screws.)

Why are you selling so low, and on Craigslist instead of here on the forum? Wheels alone are probably worth more than that.