What did you do to your FB today?
10-18-12, 01:11 PM
#1557
Sin City Rotary
too much front end weight??
lol sorrry was too easy
serious note, wheel bearings? tire balance? tweaked rim? alignment?
lol sorrry was too easy
serious note, wheel bearings? tire balance? tweaked rim? alignment?
Last edited by 13x; 10-18-12 at 01:21 PM.
That was the money I was going to spend to restore my Enkei's.
10-18-12, 10:14 PM
#1560
^shitty....Im actually very surprised that I have never gotten a ticket in my Rx-7 for ... speeding, wreckless driving, vulgar display of power, illegal modification of collector licensed vehicle, illegal exhaust modification, illegal ride height modification, no front plate displayed, no insurance...
as for what I did today... wished it wasnt 45 degrees and raining so I can drive my baby a few more times before she hibernates in a heated garage for the next several months.... also plotted and schemed my way to make money for my next stage of the never ending project
as for what I did today... wished it wasnt 45 degrees and raining so I can drive my baby a few more times before she hibernates in a heated garage for the next several months.... also plotted and schemed my way to make money for my next stage of the never ending project
10-18-12, 10:37 PM
#1561
Ive been driving my FB EV pretty much every day since I got it running. I broke 350 electric miles today. Of particular note is the torque of the electric motor is about 250 ft lbs from 0 rpm to 3200 rpm if you open it up. Above 3200 it tapers off up to red line at 5000 rpm. It is so much torque and the point where it tapers off is low enough that 1st gear is too low to be very useful. When I give demo rides I normally demonstrate the torque by starting out at a standstill with the clutch out in 2nd gear and punch the throttle. About a half second later you are doing 25. Today however I did my demo and there was a pop from under the hood. It happened just about the same time as the torque would have been reduced. The shifter pulled itself over to the right several inches and I let off the throttle. I am sure a lot of you know what broke but I wasn't sure. I looked over everything and I couldn't find anything obviously broken. I drove home very gently but even with light acceleration the shifter would lean to the right. When I got home I jacked it up and looked over the transmission mount and that was fine. I opened the hood and shook the motor and I was able to pull it away from the drivers side motor mount. Yeah, I broke the motor mount. I am a little bummed and a little elated. Elated because I have so much torque I was able to break the factory motor mount. bummed because now I have to fix it. I've not replaced one of these before but I think I can do it by removing 2 bolts and lifting the motor a couple of inches with a cherry picker. Should I get a competition mount? I would assume they are stronger. The stiffness wont matter at all because there is no vibration with the electric motor. I suppose there might be additional road noise transmitted to the chassis.
10-18-12, 10:42 PM
#1562
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Started it for the first time in a few months!! Pretty excited considering I redid the engine harness and added a new fuse block among other things; I suspected some problem with startup. I was hopeful that the wideband controller wasn't ruined by the previous owners mounting and wiring, but it still doesn't work so I'll be looking for a new one. The worst part about that is that I was too hopeful and ran all of the controllers wires in non-split loom with other things. Oh well, it runs.
New vacuum manifold, bov mount and some nicer intake connections.
New vacuum manifold, bov mount and some nicer intake connections.
10-18-12, 10:45 PM
#1563
Ive been driving my FB EV pretty much every day since I got it running. I broke 350 electric miles today. Of particular note is the torque of the electric motor is about 250 ft lbs from 0 rpm to 3200 rpm if you open it up. Above 3200 it tapers off up to red line at 5000 rpm. It is so much torque and the point where it tapers off is low enough that 1st gear is too low to be very useful. When I give demo rides I normally demonstrate the torque by starting out at a standstill with the clutch out in 2nd gear and punch the throttle. About a half second later you are doing 25. Today however I did my demo and there was a pop from under the hood. It happened just about the same time as the torque would have been reduced. The shifter pulled itself over to the right several inches and I let off the throttle. I am sure a lot of you know what broke but I wasn't sure. I looked over everything and I couldn't find anything obviously broken. I drove home very gently but even with light acceleration the shifter would lean to the right. When I got home I jacked it up and looked over the transmission mount and that was fine. I opened the hood and shook the motor and I was able to pull it away from the drivers side motor mount. Yeah, I broke the motor mount. I am a little bummed and a little elated. Elated because I have so much torque I was able to break the factory motor mount. bummed because now I have to fix it. I've not replaced one of these before but I think I can do it by removing 2 bolts and lifting the motor a couple of inches with a cherry picker. Should I get a competition mount? I would assume they are stronger. The stiffness wont matter at all because there is no vibration with the electric motor. I suppose there might be additional road noise transmitted to the chassis.
10-20-12, 08:03 PM
#1564
Made some progress, I apologize for the large pictures. The camera is on it's lowest setting and they still come out the size of a house.
From this:
To this:
There are a few new things that popped up that I'll have to address. The hard line for the heater is right in the damn way, most of you would say axe it but alas...it does get rather cold here in the winter and though I don't think I'll be driving it all that much in the winter I'd still like to be warm if I do. I'll borrow/rent a hand tubing bender and straiten out the two 45*s in to one 90* bring it around the bottom of the blower. Could run a hose but with the header being right there I don't like that idea one bit.
Secondly, I've gotta figure out if this riser is actually removable.
It needs to rotate 90* so that I can mount my carb. Came with an edlebrock that sat North-South on the blower while my Holley sits East-west. Currently the fuel feed line will not clear the strut tower so I've either got to find if there is a 'stubby' feed line or find one that has a 90* ben down so that I can run it in its current configuration. That being said, if I rotate it 90* and have the carb running North-South my throttle linkage is also running in that direction. I'm thinking I'll have to use a TII throttle cable and build a new mount for it off the carb instead of off the manifold as I've currently got it set up. Ideas welcome.
From this:
To this:
There are a few new things that popped up that I'll have to address. The hard line for the heater is right in the damn way, most of you would say axe it but alas...it does get rather cold here in the winter and though I don't think I'll be driving it all that much in the winter I'd still like to be warm if I do. I'll borrow/rent a hand tubing bender and straiten out the two 45*s in to one 90* bring it around the bottom of the blower. Could run a hose but with the header being right there I don't like that idea one bit.
Secondly, I've gotta figure out if this riser is actually removable.
It needs to rotate 90* so that I can mount my carb. Came with an edlebrock that sat North-South on the blower while my Holley sits East-west. Currently the fuel feed line will not clear the strut tower so I've either got to find if there is a 'stubby' feed line or find one that has a 90* ben down so that I can run it in its current configuration. That being said, if I rotate it 90* and have the carb running North-South my throttle linkage is also running in that direction. I'm thinking I'll have to use a TII throttle cable and build a new mount for it off the carb instead of off the manifold as I've currently got it set up. Ideas welcome.
10-20-12, 10:20 PM
#1567
I finally finished removing all the emmissions and rats nest/ air pump from the 85 auto...it seems I have induced a post shut down flooding issue very similar to the GLC's condition while stripping down the nikki. The car however is running great and now downshifts when you step on it, doesen't leak gas thanks to a new accelerator pump diaphram and it finally shows about 35psi oil pressure at idle. Its a shame that the dowel pins leak during warm up, this is one sweet running engine. All that is left is to remove the cats, get to the bottom of the flooding issue and get to the bottom of my "od" light on the dashboard.
10-20-12, 11:26 PM
#1568
Sin City Rotary
I finally finished removing all the emmissions and rats nest/ air pump from the 85 auto...it seems I have induced a post shut down flooding issue very similar to the GLC's condition while stripping down the nikki. The car however is running great and now downshifts when you step on it, doesen't leak gas thanks to a new accelerator pump diaphram and it finally shows about 35psi oil pressure at idle. Its a shame that the dowel pins leak during warm up, this is one sweet running engine. All that is left is to remove the cats, get to the bottom of the flooding issue and get to the bottom of my "od" light on the dashboard.
10-21-12, 12:34 AM
#1569
Old School Tuner
Join Date: Nov 2008
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Made some progress, I apologize for the large pictures. The camera is on it's lowest setting and they still come out the size of a house.
From this:
To this:
There are a few new things that popped up that I'll have to address. The hard line for the heater is right in the damn way, most of you would say axe it but alas...it does get rather cold here in the winter and though I don't think I'll be driving it all that much in the winter I'd still like to be warm if I do. I'll borrow/rent a hand tubing bender and straiten out the two 45*s in to one 90* bring it around the bottom of the blower. Could run a hose but with the header being right there I don't like that idea one bit.
Secondly, I've gotta figure out if this riser is actually removable.
It needs to rotate 90* so that I can mount my carb. Came with an edlebrock that sat North-South on the blower while my Holley sits East-west. Currently the fuel feed line will not clear the strut tower so I've either got to find if there is a 'stubby' feed line or find one that has a 90* ben down so that I can run it in its current configuration. That being said, if I rotate it 90* and have the carb running North-South my throttle linkage is also running in that direction. I'm thinking I'll have to use a TII throttle cable and build a new mount for it off the carb instead of off the manifold as I've currently got it set up. Ideas welcome.
From this:
To this:
There are a few new things that popped up that I'll have to address. The hard line for the heater is right in the damn way, most of you would say axe it but alas...it does get rather cold here in the winter and though I don't think I'll be driving it all that much in the winter I'd still like to be warm if I do. I'll borrow/rent a hand tubing bender and straiten out the two 45*s in to one 90* bring it around the bottom of the blower. Could run a hose but with the header being right there I don't like that idea one bit.
Secondly, I've gotta figure out if this riser is actually removable.
It needs to rotate 90* so that I can mount my carb. Came with an edlebrock that sat North-South on the blower while my Holley sits East-west. Currently the fuel feed line will not clear the strut tower so I've either got to find if there is a 'stubby' feed line or find one that has a 90* ben down so that I can run it in its current configuration. That being said, if I rotate it 90* and have the carb running North-South my throttle linkage is also running in that direction. I'm thinking I'll have to use a TII throttle cable and build a new mount for it off the carb instead of off the manifold as I've currently got it set up. Ideas welcome.
the carb spacer must be removable... do you see the bolts that hold it down or
if so are they press in ... if so drill them out... rotate the carb spacer re-drill according
anyhow keep up the good work this Rx is going to be a beast ...Hey seen this online ...hope it helps
Camden SuperChargers - Get a Supercharger kit for you're Mazda Rx7 13B Rotary
10-21-12, 09:06 AM
#1571
10-21-12, 10:48 AM
#1572
Yesterday on my 85 GSL I reattached the left front strut assembly with new spring and shock and repacked the bearings. Today I am going to bleed the brakes and drop it back on the ground to see if it fixed the sagging spring. Still have to do the right front but now that I know how it should go a lot better.
10-21-12, 12:33 PM
#1573
Need more pic's to give my two cent... here is nickels worth... but you're going in the right direction
the carb spacer must be removable... do you see the bolts that hold it down or
if so are they press in ... if so drill them out... rotate the carb spacer re-drill according
anyhow keep up the good work this Rx is going to be a beast ...Hey seen this online ...hope it helps
Camden SuperChargers - Get a Supercharger kit for you're Mazda Rx7 13B Rotary
the carb spacer must be removable... do you see the bolts that hold it down or
if so are they press in ... if so drill them out... rotate the carb spacer re-drill according
anyhow keep up the good work this Rx is going to be a beast ...Hey seen this online ...hope it helps
Camden SuperChargers - Get a Supercharger kit for you're Mazda Rx7 13B Rotary
Should be a prettyfun lil car. I built it as a high comp half bridge awhile ago then the blower came up for sale pretty cheap and here I am. :6
10-21-12, 02:30 PM
#1575
死*神*
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Today I put the hose locks in the brake lines and adjusted the respeed rack to eliminate bump steer. While I had the wheel off I checked my hub assembly to see if it was causing the shimmy and sure enough it was the culprit.
Now I gotta wait three hours to bleed the brakes again. Lol
Oh, I fixes my air damn *** it fell off on i95 the other day. I also stripped the glue from the rubber side bumpers and painted it to match the car. Came out ok but is only to last till next year anywya
Now I gotta wait three hours to bleed the brakes again. Lol
Oh, I fixes my air damn *** it fell off on i95 the other day. I also stripped the glue from the rubber side bumpers and painted it to match the car. Came out ok but is only to last till next year anywya