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Old 11-01-12, 02:03 AM
  #1651  
13x
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took her and the wife and her GSL to one of several "trunk or treat" gatherings around town

didn't dawn on me to decorate the car ... but did have a skeleton as a co-pilot lol

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Old 11-01-12, 06:14 AM
  #1652  
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Originally Posted by gonzoguy
Does the pedal go all the way down and still not stop the car? If so itd be either the brake booster or the vacuum line from the brake booster.
Naw it comes back up, I just can't get any pressure and keep getting air in the system. I'm just disabling the booster.
Old 11-01-12, 09:37 AM
  #1653  
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Originally Posted by dream36realms
no issues with the water. I seen the line on the wheels but it never hit the bottom of the car except my torquearm and some exhaust.

so the drama happened after I got to the DMV. I waited for 90 minutes and had to shut down every time we moved so it wouldnt overheat. Anyhway, since I was next in line I left the motor running. then as he waves me into the inspection bay I smell something electrical and look down to a small fire on my center console. so I shut the car down against the guys wishes. thenhe said well I guess you failed the tailpipe test. I said yeah Im not starting it again till I leave. so he says lets try your lights and nothing.,all the wires in the center console are toasted.

Anway, I found the source of that fire and fixed all the wires and connectors so it wont happen again once I got home.

So looks the vin onthe car and says, "this is an illegal vin" of course my loud mouth tried to explain why the vin is wrong according to their computer. he says no,the vin is wrong becuase the car is stolen,which it is not and I know that for a fact. Then they site me for not having a catalytic convertor. I then explain to him the car never came with one. his response was "yes it did, i been doing this when you werent born yet, it even says so in the computer" I simply tell him his computer is wrong because my RX7 came with a thermal reactor. he also states that every american car after 1975 has cats, well this isnt even an american car.

then after all that he says well it doesnt matter because you have performed and illegal after market engine swap.Uh,NO MR IDIOT! DE Law states that the engine swap laws do not exist prior to 1980 hence the reason I bought this damn SA22C.

So I was assigned a date with the county sheriff at the DMV bright and early tomorrow morning. they are going to discuss whether or not my car is illegal or not. I mean really it blows cleaner than the 12a ever dreamed of so whats the ******* problem. even his partner was like"dude,let it go man,look a tit this took a ton of work to do"

He also got me for not having a carboncanistor installed. oops, I nevergot around tothat part. sotruely my bad.

so the bad news if the sheriff says its a clean car than I can get a 15 day pass, but will require a 12a swap to pass. and on top of that the T-tag wont keep the county away from trying to scrap the car.

Im just gonna sell it. open to offers guys.
Your tax dollars at work. Delaware's starting to sound as much like the Soviet Union as California does - - endless bureaucracy stuffed with incompetent hacks sucking off the public payroll (paid by your taxes) with the main goal of preventing you from doing what you want to do in the name of 'the public good.'

I do feel your pain.
Old 11-01-12, 11:39 AM
  #1654  
Always Wanting to Learn

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dream36 I hope it all ends well. I'd hate to see you lose your car, your work is awesome and has been fun to watch. Will be watching and hoping all goes well.

I'm getting her ready for winterizing today. Not fun.
Old 11-01-12, 12:05 PM
  #1655  
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MN

put her away for the winter
Old 11-01-12, 12:55 PM
  #1656  
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Went back through. Got the ok on the vin plus they put a DOT decal on door area to avoid the problem again.

Still argued about a cat so I'm at a shop having one installed. Still need to do a charcoal canister/ evaporate ****. I haven't even thought if how I'm gonna do that. It also means I need to pull the tank down again and redo all my fuel lines again. ******* asses. I currently have it vent to atmosphere. I assume its a cheap fix to make legal but the camaro canister is $200 here.
Old 11-01-12, 07:05 PM
  #1657  
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Starting yesterday:
Installed sway bar endlinks, rebuilt the carb and stripped it of emissions, replaced intake gasket and orings which badly needed it (both orings were in pieces),cleaned the manifold engine and carb to look good, gutted the air pump (i didnt plan on it otherwise id have done the double alternator pulley), did some joy riding, now about to change battery terminals, oil change, spark plugs and seafoam treatment. This day isnt over.
Old 11-01-12, 09:42 PM
  #1658  
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I've always been too afraid to SeaFoam in the intake on my Rotary.. I'm sure it's at least okay to do the oil treatment but what about the combustion chamber? I've done it many times before on piston motors.. but I'm a rotary n00b lol. I couldn't even imagine how much mine would smoke, it already smokes without SeaFoam..
Old 11-01-12, 09:57 PM
  #1659  
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My LED's came in for the License plate illumination on the 85 GSL converted to a plug in electric. This saves about 10 watts all by itself when the lights are on. It doesn't seem like much but every watt counts. Light bulbs are greedy. With the lights turned on the alternator is probably placing an additional load of around half a horsepower on the original rotary engine. For me this represents a reduction in range of a mile per hour of operation. I am estimating that the load will be reduced to about a tenth of that once I get all the running lights and headlights replaced with LED's.

If you want to replace a license plate bulb with an LED the correct bulb part number from superbrightleds.com is BA9S-W4-90-12v and cost me $2.98 each. This is a 9mm base bulb. I know this fits the 85 GSL and GSL-SE and probably everthing except for the 79 with the license plate above the bumper. It produces a pleasant cool white illumination slightly brighter than the 28 year old bulbs that were in the car. The bulb finder on the web site gives the wrong bulb as a replacement.
Old 11-02-12, 10:01 PM
  #1660  
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o
Old 11-02-12, 10:53 PM
  #1661  
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^Nice post dude.

Today I decided to check a few things out before the long drive down to Miami and back for the meet and while under the car I saw what looked like some pre-mix oil dripping from my fuel pump.. all the connections are tight and it's not leaking fuel and doesn't smell like fuel but could the oil somehow be separating and leaking out through the pump? Usually I'd think the pre-mix mixes pretty well but sometimes I see the pre-mix up by the carb too. Maybe I'm adding too much? I'm already going light with like a 175:1 (8oz for 11gal) and the PO was doing almost double that.
Old 11-02-12, 11:46 PM
  #1662  
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Originally Posted by jeg0024
I've always been too afraid to SeaFoam in the intake on my Rotary.. I'm sure it's at least okay to do the oil treatment but what about the combustion chamber? I've done it many times before on piston motors.. but I'm a rotary n00b lol. I couldn't even imagine how much mine would smoke, it already smokes without SeaFoam..
I can't imagine why seafoam would do any harm... at the same time I can't imagine it doing any good either.

Foam in the carb on piston engines is suposed to clean out the carbon deposits around the valve seats, and the intake manifold.

So unless you have a hella dirty manifold (and too lazy to take it off and give it a good scrubbing**6 bolts?**) or have auxilary ports that could get jamed I don't see the point in the foam in the intake manifold.

I heard it breaks up carbon, but just run the engine hard... that'll solve any carbon buildup problems

Now in the gasoline use hella. keep those jets and all of the carb orifaces CLEAN!!
Old 11-03-12, 12:26 AM
  #1663  
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Well my carb and mani are brand new there's no way it's dirty.. I was just saying in through the intake so it got into the combustion chamber/rotor housings.. but if a redline a day keeps the carbon away I'll just keep on hitting that 8k lol. I'll throw some in the fuel though, it should help out I'm sure.
Old 11-03-12, 01:06 AM
  #1664  
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13b-rew

what is the best way to make 500hp off stock turbos?

Last edited by kenneth elias; 11-03-12 at 01:35 AM.
Old 11-03-12, 01:53 AM
  #1665  
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Originally Posted by kenneth elias
what is the best way to make 500hp off stock turbos?
Step 1: Find the correct thread to ask that question.
Step 2: Stop spamming to get your post count up so you can post new threads with stupid questions.
Step 3: Buy an LS1.
Old 11-03-12, 01:18 PM
  #1666  
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Cleaned my k&n filter today. It's the little things...
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Old 11-03-12, 02:46 PM
  #1667  
searching...

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Removed my intake and installed freeze plugs
Old 11-03-12, 03:10 PM
  #1668  
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Seafoam is great stuff, but the only place it should go is into the gas tank...





.
Old 11-03-12, 11:11 PM
  #1669  
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Today I baked my new brake rotors in the oven at 250 for one hour.
...because I left them inside earlier this week (it's not fun working with metal that's been sitting out in -5 Celsius) and the ongoing renovations in the house got fine sawdust on them. So I rinsed off the dust and realized that if I let them dry overnight they might rust: hence the oven.
The things I do for my car!
Old 11-04-12, 12:18 AM
  #1670  
Lapping = Fapping

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I swapped in a modified throttle stop screw with a spring. No more locknut!
Old 11-04-12, 12:27 AM
  #1671  
Lapping = Fapping

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Originally Posted by Alex84GSL
Today I baked my new brake rotors in the oven at 250 for one hour.
...because I left them inside earlier this week (it's not fun working with metal that's been sitting out in -5 Celsius) and the ongoing renovations in the house got fine sawdust on them. So I rinsed off the dust and realized that if I let them dry overnight they might rust: hence the oven.
The things I do for my car!
I can match that sentiment. Just the other day a new turbo I ordered arrived. They come soaked it a protection oil (at least this particular brand does). So in order to handle it, you either put up with oily hands, or you can take the housings off and do a quick degrease and rinse. I chose the latter.

The compressor housing is aluminum. No problem to wash and dry it off. But the turbine housing is iron. After the rinse I used a combination of compressed air and a propane torch to drive the water out. It worked well enough. But what about the exposed iron? It started wanting to flash rust. I decided to paint it with high temp exhaust paint. Great except the paint is pretty weak until cured. How do you cure it? Usually with a running engine. Well the exhaust manifold isn't even fabbed up, let alone an available Nikki boost prepped. So the trusty propane torch went into action again. I had to carefully and evenly heat the whole thing to 400 degrees or more without burning the paint. It only slightly bubbled in a few places. And it stayed hot for a half hour outside with a slight breeze. I think it got hot enough.
Old 11-04-12, 12:29 AM
  #1672  
Lapping = Fapping

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Originally Posted by Jibaro 12A
Removed my intake and installed freeze plugs
How much hotter is your manifold now? The ACV port pulses exhaust heat into your manifold. Always fill it with quicksteel or other putty when you install freeze plugs. ALWAYS!
Old 11-04-12, 01:47 AM
  #1673  
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well the 15 x 8 Epsilons rubbed a touch so today I rolled the fenders on the wifes GSL
Old 11-04-12, 01:46 AM
  #1674  
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Drove 400+ round trip miles to Miami.. PICS
Old 11-04-12, 11:47 AM
  #1675  
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B
How do you cure it?
Gas barbecue grill & a cookie sheet to avoid direct flame...?

Went to the first local meet in many months; only one other -7, but it was a nicely-preserved '80 with some very tasteful & smoothly integrated flare-work.


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