What did you do to your FB today?
04-28-13, 08:17 PM
#2801
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took the molding off the side. and most the tape under it. revealing my silver car used to be black. going to take off the glue tomorrow while it gets an oil change. then repaint it silver.
04-28-13, 08:37 PM
#2802
My 7 is my girlfriend.
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Installed new wiper rack linkage. Broke a bolt removing the front seat so while trying to remove the broken piece the rust around the mount broke, so I chopped it out. Sadly I have no welder, so I have no idea how it's going to get repaired at this point.
04-29-13, 09:54 AM
#2805
Finished up the final silkscreen retouch on the air cleaner, faked up an "until I can find one that fits" insulating boot for the alternator output connection, properly cemented the new carpet inserts into my bin lids, reinforced the bin hinges, and pulled the driver's door card to fix the snapped stud on the back of one of my fancy door emblems.
The door emblem fix went poorly at first. The chrome rotor emblems I bought to make them are made from something in the line of very soft aluminum (under copper then chrome electroplate) or possibly tin/pot metal. Attempts to re-solder the brass stud I previously added to make it mountable just failed - - the solder flux was actually eating the metal away, but without flux it wouldn't wet at all. Then solder started wicking under the chrome. Yuck. Clear that he other studs would eventually break off as well; a b etter solution was needed.
So, I decided to bow to the practical and instead use thru-holes to mount the emblems, using stainless BHCS hex screws placed where the corner seals would go. Looks righteous, & no way they can fail in future. I need to get some slightly longer screws today, though, before I can re-mount them properly.
Dug my spare air-cleaner snorkel out of the box I had it in, and started cleaning it up for mounting to the newly-redone air filter box.
The door emblem fix went poorly at first. The chrome rotor emblems I bought to make them are made from something in the line of very soft aluminum (under copper then chrome electroplate) or possibly tin/pot metal. Attempts to re-solder the brass stud I previously added to make it mountable just failed - - the solder flux was actually eating the metal away, but without flux it wouldn't wet at all. Then solder started wicking under the chrome. Yuck. Clear that he other studs would eventually break off as well; a b etter solution was needed.
So, I decided to bow to the practical and instead use thru-holes to mount the emblems, using stainless BHCS hex screws placed where the corner seals would go. Looks righteous, & no way they can fail in future. I need to get some slightly longer screws today, though, before I can re-mount them properly.
Dug my spare air-cleaner snorkel out of the box I had it in, and started cleaning it up for mounting to the newly-redone air filter box.
04-29-13, 10:48 AM
#2806
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Location: Toronto
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did some maintenance yesterday, new plugs, wires, dizzy cap and rotor.
weird thing was, i installed all the new parts at once then fired up the car, it ran very weird and hesitated. after a lot of head scratching, reinstalled all the old parts and it ran perfectly fine.
started reinstalling the new parts one by one and once i was done, it was running good.
weird thing was, i installed all the new parts at once then fired up the car, it ran very weird and hesitated. after a lot of head scratching, reinstalled all the old parts and it ran perfectly fine.
started reinstalling the new parts one by one and once i was done, it was running good.
04-29-13, 11:04 AM
#2807
Started the tear down of 12A number two. Got the exhaust manifold, intake manifold, oil pan, oil pump, pickup tube off. Might start pulling the motor apart tonight, but I have an early flight tomorrow, so I may just wait until the weekend when I come back.
fm
fm
04-29-13, 11:59 AM
#2808
Isn't the quote supposed to be "How hard could it be?" (Jeremy Clarkson of Top Gear)
And then follow that up with "Job done!" (Ed China of Wheeler Dealers)
The rotting examples I am looking at have a lip that goes under the edge of the lens and a radius that is supposed to blend with the body shape in addition to curving around the complex shape of the tail light assembly. If only it was that easy I would have some made up.
My idea was to use black RTV silicone rubber somehow. I know, not much of an idea and no details as to how it would be done. Maybe a 3D printer that can print with black silicone rubber. I suppose I could invent that.
"If you paint it black it will disappear." (Jack Rickard and Brian Noto of EVTV)
And then follow that up with "Job done!" (Ed China of Wheeler Dealers)
The rotting examples I am looking at have a lip that goes under the edge of the lens and a radius that is supposed to blend with the body shape in addition to curving around the complex shape of the tail light assembly. If only it was that easy I would have some made up.
My idea was to use black RTV silicone rubber somehow. I know, not much of an idea and no details as to how it would be done. Maybe a 3D printer that can print with black silicone rubber. I suppose I could invent that.
"If you paint it black it will disappear." (Jack Rickard and Brian Noto of EVTV)
Oh THAT seal - the tail light trim stuff. I have generally just removed it on previous cars.
04-29-13, 04:33 PM
#2809
So while the 4" Alpines will bolt directly onto the original mounting holes with the original screws there is about 1/8" gap all around which hardly helps to make for good bass responce. So I made four of these little plates while watching TV during the commercials. (Two for each car.)
Photos captions are: The original speaker. The Alpine and filler plate. The Alpine and filler plated mounted. The last picture sort of shows the rats nest left over when the PO removed the alarm system. I get motivated to remove this and then I think of how much time I might spend figuring out how to fix what they cut to disable the car. For some reason it looks worse in real life than in this photo.
Photos captions are: The original speaker. The Alpine and filler plate. The Alpine and filler plated mounted. The last picture sort of shows the rats nest left over when the PO removed the alarm system. I get motivated to remove this and then I think of how much time I might spend figuring out how to fix what they cut to disable the car. For some reason it looks worse in real life than in this photo.
04-29-13, 04:45 PM
#2810
This isn't an area I was aware of that had rusting issues. Could you post a couple of pictures please.
04-30-13, 10:17 PM
#2813
My 7 is my girlfriend.
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This might be a good enough reason to get a welder. Think of it as an opportunity. Alternatively I like to work with wood and fiberglass more than with metal so my solution would be to clean up the area and repair it with fiberglass and structural epoxy. You could capture a nut in the correct position such that the original seat mount will fit.
This isn't an area I was aware of that had rusting issues. Could you post a couple of pictures please.
This isn't an area I was aware of that had rusting issues. Could you post a couple of pictures please.
I'll try to remember to take a couple tomorrow evening.
04-30-13, 11:52 PM
#2815
DLIDFIS is fully wired. Looks kinda OEM, actually. How'd I manage that? Tested spark = ok. No carb yet so can't test fire.
Ordered an intake manifold today.
The fan is wired. I didn't want the after-run that some people do so I wired it to turn off with the key. Of course fused and relayed.
Tomorrow will be for tidying up some wires.
Ordered an intake manifold today.
The fan is wired. I didn't want the after-run that some people do so I wired it to turn off with the key. Of course fused and relayed.
Tomorrow will be for tidying up some wires.
05-01-13, 11:56 AM
#2817
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i opened the hood!
05-01-13, 08:45 PM
#2818
I'm 2000 miles away from my FB, so today I just thought about her. Monday night I got the rear iron off the 12A and inspected the rear rotor housing. Junk. 
I'm not surprised...the rear rotor showed absolutely no compression at all when I did the test. I'm not much more optimistic about the front housing either. Off to A&S Metals. Oh well, at least I'll be cleaning out the garage this weekend so I can do some real work on the car.
fm
I'm not surprised...the rear rotor showed absolutely no compression at all when I did the test. I'm not much more optimistic about the front housing either. Off to A&S Metals. Oh well, at least I'll be cleaning out the garage this weekend so I can do some real work on the car. fm
05-01-13, 11:33 PM
#2819
Originally Posted by j9fd3s
i opened the hood!
But I did get to pull an engine from an FC today.
No wonder I never got into FCs. I got to miss all the anoying BS in those engine bays. You can't even see the engine under all the manifolding! I'll take a 1st gen any day.
