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New boot floor to replace spare wheel well. This makes room for the bigger propane gas tank. Floor is nead rolled for strength and to match the factory bead rolling in the boot sheet metal.
Custom adjustable panhard rod is also fabbed up and ready for paint.
Very cool link upgrade! while I wait for my race fuel filter and other parts on the slowest boat or truck, I did the next best thing a club member can do and that’s help another enthusiast out! I ran across a lady who has had her Gen 1 for 30 plus years as the 2nd owner and her car in College that she is restoring and has sat for the last 5 years in need of TLC. She needed a non rusty gas tank wirh the 3 lines and an exhaust system as her stock one was rusted through! I pulled an Racing Beat full system and ceramic paint and cured it after moving topical rust and the gas tank was disassembled and inspected with bore scope to find bare metal and no rust ! All of the parts I had were in great shape including the switch for the fuel door and so now she is looking for headlight motors and a new dash and I will check in my large shop spares stash. I also turned her onto SakeBomb garage in Fremont ,California as dedicated rotary heads to do the work! Grit blasted and ceramic coated Italian muffler RB header Gas tank with original pad Exhaust with air piping
I celebrated the 32 anniversary of the rx-7 purchase. No more riding the RTD (rapid transit district or Rough Tough and Dangerous) Los Angeles bus through watts at 11 pm coming from the county jail...... by changing the oil.
The Atkins rebuilt is now 18 years old. Time sure flies.
I bought a reman S4 Alt for my S3, because it's a direct plug-in and an extra 15A. I like the idea of an even stronger one but don't really need it, and haven't wanted to cut into the wiring (yet).
Looks like my stock style radiator finally bit the dust, and started leaking out the core. Searching for a stock style radiator, i came up with nothing. The local radiator shop quoted me $700, thank to the huge uptick in metal prices. Decided to break from the OEM look on the grounds of necessity and replaced it with an aluminum.
I love the fit of the koyorad. Right before I pulled my OE 12A I put one in, and it bolted right up and the shroud fit perfectly. Easy-peasy. When the 13B goes in I might need an electric fan, but for a 12A it's a direct fit.
I love the fit of the koyorad. Right before I pulled my OE 12A I put one in, and it bolted right up and the shroud fit perfectly. Easy-peasy. When the 13B goes in I might need an electric fan, but for a 12A it's a direct fit.
I’m running the Koyo and a 13b. Most electric fans are too thick. The lauded Taurus fan would be too thick. I went with a ford contour fan from a v6 equipped car. It’s a 3500cfm fan if it is to be believed.
Truth be told, this was an Ebay radiator, and the fit was surprisingly good. I plan to stick with the mechanical fan because i really don't see any benefits to going electric.
I really don 't want to go to an electric fan. The new radiator is approx 10mm thicker than stock and the 13B is approx 20mm longer than the old 12A, so there's 30mm less space between the stock fan and the radiator. I have a flex fan to get me started, but I plan on machining the OE fan spacer down so the OE clutch fan can still be used. We'll see.
Aaron Cake had a good write-up of how an electric fan doesn't actually gain you any HP over a clutch fan, because while you've lost the weight/drag of the fan, the electric one adds 30amps of draw (strain) on your alternator. Which takes the same 2 HP to produce that you just gained. So you gain no power from the swap.
More important (to me) is that I hate the clutter it adds to the engine bay. I like the early RX-7 because it's A) one of the best looking sports cars of all time, and B) it's so simple and un-cluttered. Open the hood on any modern car and you can barely see the engine through all the tubes and cables. Why would I want to add a more complicated and inherently failure-prone cooling system? A clutch fan is fail-safe. If it fails (after 30 years or 200 miles) it will cool all the time (clutch seizure). If an electric fan fails you're screwed and could damage your engine. No thanks.
I’m running the Koyo and a 13b. Most electric fans are too thick. The lauded Taurus fan would be too thick. I went with a ford contour fan from a v6 equipped car. It’s a 3500cfm fan if it is to be believed.
You are correct Richard......3500 cfms......but it'll only work with the tall radiators..... I bought the same fan for my 82 and it has a short radiator and the fan wouldn't fit between the in/out hose outlets on my short radiator. I had I order another and fab a little bit in the length...and looks awesome......
I really don 't want to go to an electric fan. The new radiator is approx 10mm thicker than stock and the 13B is approx 20mm longer than the old 12A, so there's 30mm less space between the stock fan and the radiator. I have a flex fan to get me started, but I plan on machining the OE fan spacer down so the OE clutch fan can still be used. We'll see.
Aaron Cake had a good write-up of how an electric fan doesn't actually gain you any HP over a clutch fan, because while you've lost the weight/drag of the fan, the electric one adds 30amps of draw (strain) on your alternator. Which takes the same 2 HP to produce that you just gained. So you gain no power from the swap.
More important (to me) is that I hate the clutter it adds to the engine bay. I like the early RX-7 because it's A) one of the best looking sports cars of all time, and B) it's so simple and un-cluttered. Open the hood on any modern car and you can barely see the engine through all the tubes and cables. Why would I want to add a more complicated and inherently failure-prone cooling system? A clutch fan is fail-safe. If it fails (after 30 years or 200 miles) it will cool all the time (clutch seizure). If an electric fan fails you're screwed and could damage your engine. No thanks.
Clutch fans can and will fail to a freewheeling (i.e.: useless) state, and I personally hate the look of crap hanging off of the water pump pulley. Electric fans have the benefit of cooling the same regardless of engine speed, of, for that matter, whether or not the engine is running, not to mention being easy to set up and test. Also, they’re adjustable.
That said, there is nothing inherently wrong with a mechanically driven clutch fan. They work well. Electric fans are mainly about packaging, with a side of ease of adjustment.
Installed a Franklin Engineering low profile oil fil neck and setup a cleaner breather setup. I still wanted to properly vent the gas tank, so I drilled and tapped the fill neck 1/8npt and installed a second smaller hose adaptor.
The AN line and fittings are overkill but I like the clean look. The breather is bolted to the pump housing using a M6 rivnut.
Also added a heat shield for under the filter socks.
With a side mount alternator I really like the clean engine bay look.
3x OLED GaugeArt Displays
Custom Hand-Made Speedo and Tacho
Traction Control ****
Boss Hub with Sparco L777
High End 720p Double Din Headunit
Beryllium Reference Tweeters with Imaging Center Tweeters
Finally filled up the gas tank and quickly noticed it was leaking from the fuel gauge sender. I installed a new sender since one of the prongs was broken off and it also comes with a gasket.
The fuel gauge now works although it seems whoever worked on the old sender clocked it wrong, I'll need to turn it one more bolt hole counter clockwise. It's still leaking badly though, I believe it's because whoever worked on it before used 6 self tappers and the gas is coming up from the longer bolts and seems to be seeping from the crevice under the sender flange. Now I need to figure out the best way to seal it.
3x OLED GaugeArt Displays
Custom Hand-Made Speedo and Tacho
Traction Control ****
Boss Hub with Sparco L777
High End 720p Double Din Headunit
Beryllium Reference Tweeters with Imaging Center Tweeters
02-22-22, 03:23 PM
