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3x OLED GaugeArt Displays
Custom Hand-Made Speedo and Tacho
Traction Control ****
Boss Hub with Sparco L777
High End 720p Double Din Headunit
Beryllium Reference Tweeters with Imaging Center Tweeters
That looks stellar. At first glance I couldn't tell it wasn't stock, but then you see the gauges go to 10k and 200mph. Really nice job you did there.
Finally filled up the gas tank and quickly noticed it was leaking from the fuel gauge sender. I installed a new sender since one of the prongs was broken off and it also comes with a gasket.
The fuel gauge now works although it seems whoever worked on the old sender clocked it wrong, I'll need to turn it one more bolt hole counter clockwise. It's still leaking badly though, I believe it's because whoever worked on it before used 6 self tappers and the gas is coming up from the longer bolts and seems to be seeping from the crevice under the sender flange. Now I need to figure out the best way to seal it.
Permatex Motoseal works wonders for gasoline mating surface leaks. Unlike regular RTV it's completely resistant to fuels and holds up well over time even fully submerged. It's really runny stuff though (surprised me the first time I used it) so it won't fill gaps like RTV, but I bet it would work well to keep the gas from seeping through those bolt holes.
Alternatively, Permatex also makes their no.1 and no.2 gasket dressings which are fuel resistant, but they are non-curing so I'd leave them as option number two in this situation. They'd probably seal fine for a while, but they can slowly migrate over time if being relied on to fill holes.
Tell me more about that inflatable jack? Something like that might work great on by BendPak four post lift to work on brakes to get the tires off the ramps just a bit to remove them.
Permatex Motoseal works wonders for gasoline mating surface leaks.
Thanks for the suggestion on Motoseal, I added a few coats around the flange and it's holding so far.
I replaced the fuel hoses in the engine bay, and replaced the ruined crush washers for the fuel inlet banjo bolts with copper washers from Napa, part #26982, they sealed up fine.
The power steering reservoir started leaking so I ordered an Eldelmann 9078 seal kit and replaced the 2 o-rings for the pipe that connects it to the pump. It still leaked but after adjusting the placement of the rear o-ring and gently tapping the pipe onto the reservoir fitting it doesn't leak anymore. I noticed it was missing a bolt so I found another 6mm bolt, the wire holder was also in the wrong place.
3d printed some pods for the oil pressure and wideband. Didn't want to make a big hole in the dash for them. Attachment 741980
What material are you printing it out of?
For my fancy DCOE throttle linkage I printed a dual cable grommet in regular PLA. It's a small part with thick walls and away from the hot side of the engine, so I figured it would last a while.
It's been through 2 Texas summers ,but I noticed it deforming a few weeks ago so I ordered one out of mineral filled Nylon 6 from Shapeways.
Installed the new grommet today, the material is harder so I had to squirt some WD40 get it to snap in:
For my fancy DCOE throttle linkage I printed a dual cable grommet in regular PLA. It's a small part with thick walls and away from the hot side of the engine, so I figured it would last a while.
It's been through 2 Texas summers ,but I noticed it deforming a few weeks ago so I ordered one out of mineral filled Nylon 6 from Shapeways.
Installed the new grommet today, the material is harder so I had to squirt some WD40 get it to snap in:
That's very nice. Yeah pla won't hold. The Nylon should be good. I am printing out of asa. Glass transition temp is around 180c so it holds really well. The carbon fiber nylon is really good too
The original plastic ones were fading and literally crumbling.
Those look great! Didn't know aluminum ones were a thing.
I know kutukutu1 already replied regarding the 3D printing material, but I figured I would add that PETG would probably work well enough for you as well in this particular application. I'm surprised PLA held up as long as it did, and seeing that I think PETG would be an easy to print alternative you might consider checking out (20C higher Tg than PLA). ASA and ABS would be the best material here, ABS being a little less expensive since you don't need the UV resistance that ASA offers. ASA and ABS have a Tg about 40C higher than PLA (~100C). Downside is you need an enclosure to print well with ABS, ASA, or nylons.
For what it's worth, I printed mine from carbon fiber filled nylon since it was what I had on hand.
Those look great! Didn't know aluminum ones were a thing.
I know kutukutu1 already replied regarding the 3D printing material, but I figured I would add that PETG would probably work well enough for you as well in this particular application. I'm surprised PLA held up as long as it did, and seeing that I think PETG would be an easy to print alternative you might consider checking out (20C higher Tg than PLA). ASA and ABS would be the best material here, ABS being a little less expensive since you don't need the UV resistance that ASA offers. ASA and ABS have a Tg about 40C higher than PLA (~100C). Downside is you need an enclosure to print well with ABS, ASA, or nylons.
For what it's worth, I printed mine from carbon fiber filled nylon since it was what I had on hand.
That CF nylon is some tough stuff. The print quality looks great!
Knocked out brakes on my 85 GS resto-mod project - new (reman) front calipers, front pads, stainless front hoses, stainless rear hose, brake fluid flush.
Gotten alot of things fixed lately, lubed the non operative wiper linkage and re-greased inside the motor so it all works perfectly now. Lubricated the window tracks so both windows work great, used a zip tie to poke through the clogged sunroof drain holes, used a sewing needle to unclog the charcoal canister inlet and I've got the interior cleaned and mostly reinstalled.
To those that have taken their storage boxes out before, I'm curious if this insulation sitting between the boxes is factory or aftermarket installed by a mouse?
Gotten alot of things fixed lately, lubed the non operative wiper linkage and re-greased inside the motor so it all works perfectly now. Lubricated the window tracks so both windows work great, used a zip tie to poke through the clogged sunroof drain holes, used a sewing needle to unclog the charcoal canister inlet and I've got the interior cleaned and mostly reinstalled.
To those that have taken their storage boxes out before, I'm curious if this insulation sitting between the boxes is factory or aftermarket installed by a mouse?
Coolant flush and refill. I used a ginned up vacuum refill thing with parts from the local brewing store and my oil extractor. Seems like it filled all the voids and no burping required.
I also added 3.5 Oz of friction modifier (about half of the tube's recommended amount to add) to the LSD. It was stuttering a bit on normal launch in first gear. I was skeptical because I used Valvoline gear oil that claimed to already have the LSD additive mixed in...I guess it needed a bit more.
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Here's the home made setup. I'll admit it's a bit janky. To be clear, you don't extract the coolant this way, this is just for a voidless refill. The brew store had the tee fitting, tubing, and rubber stopper for $12
The idea is to clamp off the fresh supply and pull a relatively light vacuum, watch for the top rad hose to collapse like a straw in your milk shake. My oil extractor (on the bottom left) managed to pull some coolant, due to my poor clamp seals, normally you'd just have air in that line. Anyhow, once you've got a vacuum on the system, clamp off the oil extractor line and unclamp the fresh coolant line to the bucket and the coolant fills up the system. It's super clean, no spills and loaded quickly. It would have been much easier with valves instead of those clamps though.
03-23-22, 11:46 AM
