What did you do to your FB today?
#8178
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (2)
Today I learned the 84-85 combo switch has the locking tab on the top and older cars have it at 3 o'clock.
Last couple of evenings I've been prepping the car for MTheory's rack kit and the steering column I prepared was for a later car.
It was annoying since the little tan doesn't land in the right spot unless it's tightened so I had oval out the new hole I made and keep rechecking.
Last couple of evenings I've been prepping the car for MTheory's rack kit and the steering column I prepared was for a later car.
It was annoying since the little tan doesn't land in the right spot unless it's tightened so I had oval out the new hole I made and keep rechecking.
The following users liked this post:
tommyeflight89 (02-05-23)
#8179
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Lately I've been looking at gathering the parts to have a streetport 13b built for my car. I tore down my spare 12A and would use the irons and front cover from it, and buy all new 13b hardware... -SE housings, S5 N/A rotors etc and would have Chips Motorsports build it. Wow do the costs of all new OEM parts ever add up.... I spent some time with a google sheet, don't quote me for the exact costs for some of this but I'm up to $13k.
I'm currently running a 12A streetport that Chips built a few years ago... nothing wrong with it but a 13B would be awesome.
I'm currently running a 12A streetport that Chips built a few years ago... nothing wrong with it but a 13B would be awesome.
#8180
3D Printed
Lately I've been looking at gathering the parts to have a streetport 13b built for my car. I tore down my spare 12A and would use the irons and front cover from it, and buy all new 13b hardware... -SE housings, S5 N/A rotors etc and would have Chips Motorsports build it. Wow do the costs of all new OEM parts ever add up.... I spent some time with a google sheet, don't quote me for the exact costs for some of this but I'm up to $13k.
I'm currently running a 12A streetport that Chips built a few years ago... nothing wrong with it but a 13B would be awesome.
I'm currently running a 12A streetport that Chips built a few years ago... nothing wrong with it but a 13B would be awesome.
For the exact same part numbers the apex seals can easily be had for under $600, front and rear gears for under $200 a peice, flywheel under $500, and clutch for under $300. Those by themselves cut over $500 from the total, although for a $13k build I suppose that's a small savings. Have heard good things about Chip's, but some of the prices do seem a little inflated.
The following users liked this post:
Maxwedge (02-06-23)
#8183
Started to tackle the oil leak coming from the front e-shaft bolt. Got the bolt out (with clutch pinned down) then had to pry the crush washer out. The cause of the oil leak became obvious, whoever rebuilt the engine for my friend's Dad used the wrong washer and it wasn't even centered so it's all misshapen.
No problem, already have a new crush washer from Mazda, but further cementing my idea that whoever rebuilt the engine years ago had no business working on rotary's, is that the woodruff key appears to be missing or the wrong size.The pulley slot isn't lining up with the e-shaft, I'll have to try to hurry up and source a key.
No problem, already have a new crush washer from Mazda, but further cementing my idea that whoever rebuilt the engine years ago had no business working on rotary's, is that the woodruff key appears to be missing or the wrong size.The pulley slot isn't lining up with the e-shaft, I'll have to try to hurry up and source a key.
Last edited by YellowFB; 02-05-23 at 08:45 PM.
The following users liked this post:
gracer7-rx7 (03-03-23)
#8185
#8187
I might have jumped the gun a bit, there's definitely a key in there. The pulley only gets misaligned from the keyway slightly counterclockwise.
When the pulley is moved clockwise and properly aligned, the key seems to mesh at that point and it won't move anymore past that point, it'll be going clockwise when torqued down, so I'm hoping it should be ok.
When the pulley is moved clockwise and properly aligned, the key seems to mesh at that point and it won't move anymore past that point, it'll be going clockwise when torqued down, so I'm hoping it should be ok.
Last edited by YellowFB; 02-06-23 at 03:56 PM.
#8188
Rotary Enthusiast
I've seen sheared woodruff keys in other applications...it looks like half a key to me in your photo. Or maybe it was undersized from the rebuild.
In any case, love your car. And I'm glad you found the leak.
In any case, love your car. And I'm glad you found the leak.
#8190
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
The other day I ordered the Racing Beat upholstery kit. My interior is all original and in great shape with exception of the drivers seat... I did a interim repair to it but its time to replace.
I decided to go with a two tone combination, black vinyl outer section/back like OEM, but center section I picked the dark charcoal tweed. Th tweed has a nice woven texture and should work well with the otherwise all black interior and maybe be less warm than the OEM velour in the middle of the summer heat?! .
I've seen good reviews on the kit and the price is hard to beat.
Next step is to repair some of the seat foam to get the volume/support back so the new upholstery fits well and holds up.
I decided to go with a two tone combination, black vinyl outer section/back like OEM, but center section I picked the dark charcoal tweed. Th tweed has a nice woven texture and should work well with the otherwise all black interior and maybe be less warm than the OEM velour in the middle of the summer heat?! .
I've seen good reviews on the kit and the price is hard to beat.
Next step is to repair some of the seat foam to get the volume/support back so the new upholstery fits well and holds up.
The following 3 users liked this post by VA RX7:
#8192
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (2)
Clock/radio fused was popped when I got in the car, and the replacement fuse popped immediately. There's my weekend booked.
fixed:
Checked the wiring diagram and it shows the interior light is in the same section. I remembered I took it off last week to see how it attaches to the headliner.
There was an exposed connection that most likely shorted on the roof. Covered that up with electrical tape and carefully reinstalled, fuse is good now.
fixed:
Checked the wiring diagram and it shows the interior light is in the same section. I remembered I took it off last week to see how it attaches to the headliner.
There was an exposed connection that most likely shorted on the roof. Covered that up with electrical tape and carefully reinstalled, fuse is good now.
Last edited by j_tso; 03-17-23 at 05:16 PM.
#8193
Thanks!
I found the water pump was dripping from the weep hole so I replaced the water pump and gasket and replaced the water pump housing to block gasket while I was at it, no leaks now.
I replaced the 180* thermostat with another 180* thermostat but this time I got one with a jiggle valve and installed it in the 12 o clock position per the service manual.
Now I'm wondering if my new thermostat is no good as it doesn't seem to be getting as warm as it was, it usually got to the 2nd line before. I did use Water Wetter this time but I doubt it would make that much of a difference. It was about 50 degrees outside today.
I found the water pump was dripping from the weep hole so I replaced the water pump and gasket and replaced the water pump housing to block gasket while I was at it, no leaks now.
I replaced the 180* thermostat with another 180* thermostat but this time I got one with a jiggle valve and installed it in the 12 o clock position per the service manual.
Now I'm wondering if my new thermostat is no good as it doesn't seem to be getting as warm as it was, it usually got to the 2nd line before. I did use Water Wetter this time but I doubt it would make that much of a difference. It was about 50 degrees outside today.
Last edited by YellowFB; 03-22-23 at 08:54 PM.
#8195
Moderator
iTrader: (2)
rear iron, below the oil filter and left of the oil pressure sensor. google search found this thread with a picture.
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...estion-891836/
service manuals and wiring diagrams can be found here.
Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...estion-891836/
service manuals and wiring diagrams can be found here.
Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals
The following users liked this post:
Seniorchief (03-27-23)
#8197
I wish I had found this thread before I did my work today so I could post pictures!
but at any rate, I've been working on getting my starter to engage and found that when I removed my lower starter bolt, it had spun out the threads with it (I don't know how but it happened). So I spent the day today drilling out the hole, tapping the hole, then I used thread repair. Hopefully it holds.
I did put the starter back and it appears to be staying tight. However, now my positive battery cable won't stay put on the starter solenoid because when I took the nut off, it also ripped the threads off with it. I don't have a die so now I'm stuck unless one of you fancy fellas has an idea that might help me as a temporary fix. I'm not trying to drive it tomorrow I just want to turn the motor over so I can lube my apex seals before I run a gasoline iv to the carb and see if she'll idle.
but at any rate, I've been working on getting my starter to engage and found that when I removed my lower starter bolt, it had spun out the threads with it (I don't know how but it happened). So I spent the day today drilling out the hole, tapping the hole, then I used thread repair. Hopefully it holds.
I did put the starter back and it appears to be staying tight. However, now my positive battery cable won't stay put on the starter solenoid because when I took the nut off, it also ripped the threads off with it. I don't have a die so now I'm stuck unless one of you fancy fellas has an idea that might help me as a temporary fix. I'm not trying to drive it tomorrow I just want to turn the motor over so I can lube my apex seals before I run a gasoline iv to the carb and see if she'll idle.
#8199
acdelco d1906 Nkg 49034
Vice grips? C-clamp? If you are a gambling man, go with one bolt because I think the starter is held into place by the transmission's starter housing.
Then you can drive to an auto parts store for the helicoil kit.
Just a thought.
I use anti seize on every nut and bolt
Then you can drive to an auto parts store for the helicoil kit.
Just a thought.
I use anti seize on every nut and bolt