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USD market 'SA" receivers. With the raised shape of the button and the way it nests into head of the receiver, I'm not sure how well a label would laydown or work. I suppose you could repaint the button and have the wording done as a sticker.
Yes that's a bit different in construction to my ones (see below). Most likely the black PRESS was screen-printed straight onto the red surface. Screen-printing is expensive in small quantities but you get the same effect with a sticker for just the black PRESS or better yet a waterslide decal (like what they use in model kits) so there are no obvious edges.
I got a nice box of goodies in the mail. I'm going to pick up my new rear next week, and I'll start showing some glamor shots of the new suspension, brakes, steering, wheels etc.. I also got the last cable for my A/F meter so I can tweek my jetting with some accuracy.
I picked up some R32 wheels. My options were limited due to the 300ZX brakes. These came off my buddies GTS-4. They are 16x6.5 and fit perfectly. The car is almost back to where we can roll it around on wheels and tires instead of sliders.
I changed my oil, tranny fluid and drained my coolant replaced oem hoses with silicone hoses. Double checked the torque on the bolts for the suspension i replaced last week. She's back in the ground ready for the track day coming this week
Today I got my beloved '85 FB tuned-in and running Ape-**** crazy strong. Like, scary fast. I'm really glad my suspension upgrade parts are starting to arrive, because this lil beast is too fast for its worn-out shocks and bushings. I haven't eaten all day, I reek of gas, and I'm cruising for ricers. Haha, I feel like it's 1996 again.
Quick mock up. I used Duplicolors Metalcast translucent smoke paint on the irons, which give a subtle effect in the sunlight. The aluminum is almost there... I might need to find a shop to get that extra 5%. My 1/3 hp bench motor bogs when I get in on it. Metalcast on the side irons and natural polished Al.
Actually last weekend, but I put the front crossmember and suspension back on it so I could move it out of the driveway. Had roofers coming, and they needed the driveway for their waste trailer.
Start:
Add 3.5 hours:
then winch and push to curb parking:
It's now back in position in front of the garage, where all its missing parts currently live. Hopefully will have some time to work on it some more, soon, now that it's warm enough.
edit: that was also the first time all the GSL-SE steering gear - column, mounts, and box - were installed, and it all went in perfectly, which was a relief.
Last edited by Frankenrex; 04-25-19 at 10:55 PM.
Reason: added some stuff.
Man oh man! I took my axle today to a shop to get the old bearing removed and replaced. They ended up pressing the bearing in too much. They fully seated it on the axle. When I installed everything the brake caliper bracket would not fit in between the brake rotor and axle mount. I had to remove everything and that's when I noticed the bearing was below a groove the axle had already where the old bearing and race is mounted. I have one question should the race be free to slide up and down the axle or should it fit snug like the bearing and not move at all?? Mines can be moved up and down the axle shaft. I will go back to the shop tomorrow and have them pull up the bearing if possible. Good thing I have two more sets.
Rock Auto FC 70a alternator died on me. I had another I swapped in (also from Rock Auto though). Worst part is that I didn't notice the voltage dropping until my dual wideband started going into HTR mode and then started spitting out error codes. I got one drive in with the new alternator and then today both O2 sensors failed completely. So I had to get new ones to the tune of $120.
aeenox,the inner bearing race and bearing retainer are a press fit on axle and are pressed on to the shoulder machined in the axle and cannot be pressed"too far". The "race" you're describing is the bearing retainer and should not move at all.
Wrong parts could be responsible for this,have seen wrong retainers shipped with correct bearings ,not uncommon. Machinist should have seen/noted no hydraulic pressure involved in seating retainer.
Axle bearing should measure 17 mm wide and axle bearing and retainer id is 35 mm. Slide the loose bearing retainer off and measure its id with a vernier,look at the axle closely to see if it's galled or otherwise damaged.
Check your other new parts with a vernier caliper to determine if they have the correct dimensions. If so,slide a new retainer onto axle. It should stop @1/2 " from bearing.
Take everything back to machine shop OR another machine shop and have them remove that bearing and inspect the axle and press another new bearing/retainer on. Inspect the axle seal to be sure it's not damaged from any of this. If you didn't replace it previously,you should.
Post back findings,interested to see results.
You know how u said theres no way it can be pushed to far in. Actually I thought about and I forgot I had this axle fixed by a machine shop the way they repaired it is by welding it and machining. So maybe that is causing the bearing seating to be off. I had measured the old bearing versus the new one. They had the same widths, so it can't be the bearing.
Here's a closer picture of the bearing/axle right now
I had pushed up the bearing retainer on this pic, where the grooves are at the retainer was placed right below them originally
This is the only picture of the axle I have before the bearing was replaced
Tomorrow I am going to go and buy a new set at autozone in the morning to see if the bearing retainer they offer fits better. The other 2 sets I already have are National brand so both retainers area the same.
04-16-19, 05:54 AM
