Are you running standard 60/55 watt H4 in them?

 

Magnetic drain bolts sure had a lot of metal on them.
Should I change the oils every year now instead of everyother year?

 

Talking about gearbox,diff? Are they noisy,how many times have you changed the fluids in how many miles?

 

diff and trans oils have been changed every 2 years since 1990. The car is at +260,000 miles. When I bought the car, the speedometer cable was unplugged. So it is more than 260,000 miles. I don't think the trans and diff are noisy.

 

Metal you speak of,large flaky pieces,chunks or more like paste in a dome shape on drain plugs?
Do you know if these components are original to car,never overhauled,replaced?
Thats s pretty good amount of miles and would expect to see some metal on drainplugs. Small filings,paste somewhat normal,particularly if regular maintenance wasn’t performed prior to your owning car.
Large pieces of metal on each change would be a bit of concern,but if no noise from components,use a good quality synthetic lubricant and change every 15k-20k miles.

 

metal was a paste, small than grains of salt, smaller than grains of sand

 

What you see on drainplug is pretty much normal- for any car/truck. With the miles you have on car with no noise in either unit,that’s actually very good. Nothing to worry about. Change every 15-20k miles,call it good.

 

since the engine swap in 2005 , I've driven the car 40,000 miles. 40,000 /14.5 years = 2800 mi/yrs ....so those oils have been changed every 6,000 miles ?

 

I bought braided brake lines and a clutch line about 4 years ago, one of the many last ditch purchases from Black Dragon. Installed the brake lines right away but held on to the clutch slave hose till recently when I finally bought a new slave, hard line tubing to go with it. Decided to finally install it all last week. Simple job right? As usual nothing is ever simple with me ..lol.. cross threaded ( mildly and don’t ask!!!) the top bolt to the slave while trying to install. Re Tap hole ( 7 x 1.25mm) and got slave installed. Installed new hard pipe along fire wall.. all good. Pulled that 4 year old braided hose out...screwed it into cylinder... went to screw into fitting and yea.. about 2” short. !! Ordered new from Mazdatrix... expect it here any day. I think four years ago me and my buddy Ken Installed the clutch hose on one of the brakes...my only conclusion since I bought it all as s set. Live and learn... the hard way as usual..

 

Changing driveline fluids every 6k is a bit premature,especially if using synthetics.

 

Clutch master cylinder just ordered.. saga continues..

 

Always plan on replacing clutch master and slave at same time. It is guaranteed the part not replaced will fail shortly thereafter,like replacing brake shoes and gambling wheel cylinder ok because at time of installing shoes it was dry. It/they will fail soon and ruin those new brake shoes and you get to do the job 2x.
If any consolation,hope failure happened in garage and not on the road.

 

You are right I should have. Chances are this clutch MC is original from 1985.. don’t know for sure. The second I started pumping the pedal to bleed I knew I’d screwed up. It’s on the way. I learn everything the hard way. But at least I’m still learning. Thanks Mike!!

 

Heres some more wisdom:

1. If you do the brakes on one wheel do both on that axle end of the car.
2. If you bleed one brake, bleed them all.
3. If you change one coolant hose, change them all, including heater hoses.
4. Do one brake side at a time so the other can be a reference for assembly.
5. Use heat and pb blaster on rusty bolts, never use an impact.

 

Good advice,sometimes hard learned Tim.

 

6. use anti seaze on non brake fluid bolts an reassembly

7. when bleeding the brakes, don't push the pedal all the way down. push it enough to build up pressure, hold it there to compress the air, loosen the bleeder screw . The inside of the cylinder rusts at the far end because of the glycol (-OH) nature of brake fluid. Using the full range of motion will loosen the corrosion, and ruin the the rubber seals inside.

8. And there is an adjustment rod between the brake cylinder and brake pedal. Flared wrenches are a brake job must.

Why con't they make a corrosion-less brake fluid? Or chrome plate the inside of brake cylinders, or ceramic? Aluminum? It would corrode less than steel?

 

Change your brake/clutch fluid regularly,it's the moisture that gets into the system that breaks down the brake fluid(along with heat) and starts eating at seals/seal surfaces. When you see darkened fluid,it's past time to change it. The extreme dark/black color is from the seals in the system.
On a daily driver,every 2 years-30k miles is a good interval to flush/bleed hydraulics. For cars that aren't driven regularly,every other year is still a desirable interval. Cars regularly driven develop heat in their brakes which helps keep moisture to a minimum.
It is possible by doing this much ignored maintenance to not have to replace a caliper,wheel cylinder,master cylinder in the life of the vehicle,easily 200k+miles. Brake fluid doesn't cost much,nor does the time it takes to change it. Keep brake fluid in mind when changing driveline lubricants,coolant.

 

I ditched my totally reliable stock EFI system for a Mikuni and finally got it tuned to the point of good enough.

 

The clutch fluid goes black on me in a only a couple of weeks after changing and I do it at least once a year. I also get a turkey baster to get the deposits that settle at the bottom of the reservoir.
My clutch master and slave were replaced back in 2012 then the slave failed on me just a couple years ago from the walls pitting from rust. The hose is not that old either, replaced in 2016.
The cylinders are cheap enough that I'm going to look into inserting a stainless sleeve. (by someone who knows how, obviously.)

 

Hydraulic fluid turning black in that short a time is not normal,that is abnormal seal wear. Changing fluid once a year not really necessary. Wondering about quality of parts you're using,new,reman,name brand...

 

Going through my receipts the master is a reman, the slave is a "United" brand not listed on Rock Auto any more.
This has given me thought to replace them again. Barely $30 for a master and hose from Centric or Exedy and I have a new slave stashed from Black Dragon's closeout.

 

Purge flexible line and hard line with brakleen and blow out with compressed air a couple times to be certain all contaminants are removed before installing new components.
Best quality parts you can get last longest. If you're keeping car indefinitely...

 

made myself some clear directionals...

 

I was finally convinced to fix my sketchy ignition switch after my encounter with a small bump in the road and the subsequent gunshot equivalent backfire... Turned out that last time it was rebuilt the casing was never secured properly and the backing had been hanging on ever since by sheer luck. Cleaned it up good - no corrosion - and reinstalled it; better than it ever has been. Now all my idiot lights work consistently and starting the car is no longer a feat of highly coordinated ignition switch maneuvers . Anyway, here's a photo of how it was before I fixed it up.