Making drawings for gsl-se and gsl 84/85 axles. Funny thing is that the spline was actually the easy part. If anyone has the shaft tolerances for the bearing/retainer section please pm me.

 

Changed out upper & lower radiator hoses and replaced with Gates units and Roadformer t-bolt clamps.

 

Today I learned the 84-85 combo switch has the locking tab on the top and older cars have it at 3 o'clock.
Last couple of evenings I've been prepping the car for MTheory's rack kit and the steering column I prepared was for a later car.
It was annoying since the little tan doesn't land in the right spot unless it's tightened so I had oval out the new hole I made and keep rechecking.

 

Lately I've been looking at gathering the parts to have a streetport 13b built for my car. I tore down my spare 12A and would use the irons and front cover from it, and buy all new 13b hardware... -SE housings, S5 N/A rotors etc and would have Chips Motorsports build it. Wow do the costs of all new OEM parts ever add up.... I spent some time with a google sheet, don't quote me for the exact costs for some of this but I'm up to $13k.

I'm currently running a 12A streetport that Chips built a few years ago... nothing wrong with it but a 13B would be awesome.

 

Golly Ned, the price of those rotors is nuts. I can't say whether the price of them in particular is necessarily high, but he's definitely up-charging you elsewhere.

For the exact same part numbers the apex seals can easily be had for under $600, front and rear gears for under $200 a peice, flywheel under $500, and clutch for under $300. Those by themselves cut over $500 from the total, although for a $13k build I suppose that's a small savings. Have heard good things about Chip's, but some of the prices do seem a little inflated.

 

** Need to remember this is CAD so multiply everything you are used to by 1.34x.

The prices are from various shops (Not Chips, but he can get OEM parts for you) and are really good for OEM parts. Example REC has S5 NA rotors $907.75 USD. $1820 USD is $2440 CAD.

 

Ah, of course, that makes much more sense. Didn't realize they were $CAD. In that case those are some pretty solid prices, my apologies for the mistake.

 

Started to tackle the oil leak coming from the front e-shaft bolt. Got the bolt out (with clutch pinned down) then had to pry the crush washer out. The cause of the oil leak became obvious, whoever rebuilt the engine for my friend's Dad used the wrong washer and it wasn't even centered so it's all misshapen.




No problem, already have a new crush washer from Mazda, but further cementing my idea that whoever rebuilt the engine years ago had no business working on rotary's, is that the woodruff key appears to be missing or the wrong size.The pulley slot isn't lining up with the e-shaft, I'll have to try to hurry up and source a key.

 

How did it run? With the pulley misaligned with the e-shaft the ignition timing will be off.

 

Had been running just fine since ironing out carburetor problems in July, only problem was an oil leak pooling inside the pulley.

 

yes, would run just fine til u tried to check/set timing to the marks.

 

I might have jumped the gun a bit, there's definitely a key in there. The pulley only gets misaligned from the keyway slightly counterclockwise.

When the pulley is moved clockwise and properly aligned, the key seems to mesh at that point and it won't move anymore past that point, it'll be going clockwise when torqued down, so I'm hoping it should be ok.

 

I've seen sheared woodruff keys in other applications...it looks like half a key to me in your photo. Or maybe it was undersized from the rebuild.

In any case, love your car. And I'm glad you found the leak.

 

Spilled oil removing the filter today. Haven't done that in at least 10 years.

 

The other day I ordered the Racing Beat upholstery kit. My interior is all original and in great shape with exception of the drivers seat... I did a interim repair to it but its time to replace.

I decided to go with a two tone combination, black vinyl outer section/back like OEM, but center section I picked the dark charcoal tweed. Th tweed has a nice woven texture and should work well with the otherwise all black interior and maybe be less warm than the OEM velour in the middle of the summer heat?! .

I've seen good reviews on the kit and the price is hard to beat.

Next step is to repair some of the seat foam to get the volume/support back so the new upholstery fits well and holds up.

 

Today I replaced my door seals, installed a wiperless rear hatch, and took a cool photo.

 

Clock/radio fused was popped when I got in the car, and the replacement fuse popped immediately. There's my weekend booked.

fixed:
Checked the wiring diagram and it shows the interior light is in the same section. I remembered I took it off last week to see how it attaches to the headliner.
There was an exposed connection that most likely shorted on the roof. Covered that up with electrical tape and carefully reinstalled, fuse is good now.

 

Thanks!

I found the water pump was dripping from the weep hole so I replaced the water pump and gasket and replaced the water pump housing to block gasket while I was at it, no leaks now.

I replaced the 180* thermostat with another 180* thermostat but this time I got one with a jiggle valve and installed it in the 12 o clock position per the service manual.

Now I'm wondering if my new thermostat is no good as it doesn't seem to be getting as warm as it was, it usually got to the 2nd line before. I did use Water Wetter this time but I doubt it would make that much of a difference. It was about 50 degrees outside today.

 

does anyone know were the coolant sensor is located on the 1979

 

rear iron, below the oil filter and left of the oil pressure sensor. google search found this thread with a picture.

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...estion-891836/

service manuals and wiring diagrams can be found here.

Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals

 

And at the link in my sig below, if, God forbid, Sgt. Fox's site happens to be inaccessible. Please feel free to download and keep the PDFs for your own reference.
(full disclosure - a fair number of the manuals at my site *come* from foxed.ca.)

 

I wish I had found this thread before I did my work today so I could post pictures!
but at any rate, I've been working on getting my starter to engage and found that when I removed my lower starter bolt, it had spun out the threads with it (I don't know how but it happened). So I spent the day today drilling out the hole, tapping the hole, then I used thread repair. Hopefully it holds.

I did put the starter back and it appears to be staying tight. However, now my positive battery cable won't stay put on the starter solenoid because when I took the nut off, it also ripped the threads off with it. I don't have a die so now I'm stuck unless one of you fancy fellas has an idea that might help me as a temporary fix. I'm not trying to drive it tomorrow I just want to turn the motor over so I can lube my apex seals before I run a gasoline iv to the carb and see if she'll idle.

 

Upgraded to an FD alt to better run my sniper setup, I'm charging at 13.5V with all accessories on.

 

Vice grips? C-clamp? If you are a gambling man, go with one bolt because I think the starter is held into place by the transmission's starter housing.

Then you can drive to an auto parts store for the helicoil kit.

Just a thought.

I use anti seize on every nut and bolt

 

Helicoils are the ****!!! That's how my front cover motor mount is held on, also held against the 1600psi fuel rail on my MS3.
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