I drove it on a nice day. Everyone should get out and enjoy their car now and again.

 

Maybe when they stop salting the roads

Not today but recently: I shaved a pig.




And I put my new plates on my winter car.

 

Epic winter plates peejay. I wonder how many people today catch the reference.

 

On our red/black '93 RX7: My son and I removed the stock airbox, disassembled it, and gave it a good bath in hot, soapy water. There were remnants of leaves, grass, straw and small debris like that on one side of the mesh inside the airbox. It did its job, as none of that debris was on the inside of the airbox leading to the stock plumbing for the twin turbos. I may not be using the right lingo, but I do know what we saw. We cleaned the airbox and reinstalled it on the car. The internals did there job of keeping any foreign object out of the air path to the turbos and the engine. Good design that works. Respectfully, John J. Garvey

 

started on the rear wheel tubs... itls alot of work...

 

All I could remember from that was idclip.

 

I worked on figuring out the harness etc for my 13brew swap...

anybody know if I need the factory ecu anymore... my setup came with the Haltech Sprint RE... and every plug ont he passenger side on engine bay side suits the old gslse engine and not anything I need for the rew....

is there anything in that loom that runs anything in dash? does it need to complete a circuit seeing as it runs from drivers side and clips to the wires from teh ecu out to bay on p/s???

I did see some pics on a shops site where they didnt have the factory ecu anymore but the aftermarket was all mounting in the footwell area....





I also got my material to cover my sunroof as it is brown and Im changing the interior to black and never got the insert when I got the black roof lining...

 

God Mode.

 

As far as I know, the factory ECU does nothing but EFI (GSL-SE) or emissions stuff (12A). Safe to remove. When we converted a friend's GSL-SE to MegaSquirt, we just unplugged the OEM ECU and tapped into the OEM harness. No ill effects, other than those introduced by our own inexpert tuning of the MegaSquirt.

Nice fabric, too, BTW!

 

 

Bolted up my Watts linkage:




Then set the car on four wheels for the first time in two months:

 

Silly question: why is it on the front of the housing, rather than the rear, as per factory? Is that just where it fit in the car?

edit: just realized I need to edit my signature, since I don't own the '90 any more...

 

???

The factory has it on the front. They specifically used a Watts because they COULD put it on the front. For clearance reasons, if they used a Panhard on the rear, they would have needed to make the car a couple inches longer.

Garage journal is here: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/fo.../136340/page1/

 

Lately I have been collecting parts for the work to be done later this summer. Still waiting for an order from Rockauto for all the bearings for the diff rebuild.

I have a 82 GS and I managed to find a 84-85 "Big Axle" rear end from a GSL. I picked up calipers off of a forum member and have been collecting all the other parts for the rebuild.

I will be going with either a Tomei or KAAZ 1.5 way LSD.

Will be using all new bearings, seals etc. Had everything sand blasted.

Also got a S4 alternator. My alternator is a bit tired and this is a bolt in upgrade to a 70A unit. The positive "post" is even removable so it will look like a FB unit.

I also managed to find a guy locally selling brand new OEM brake backing plates for this exact axle. Mine did not come with any, just the axle retainers. I got both backing plates/dust shields for around $35 (:

Also, does anyone know which bolts I need to buy for the ring gear? I see two different part numbers that have to do with a 0.1mm difference in shank diameter....

 

Now that I am home and on a computer, I wanted to edit that post to add a photo, but it keeps not working.

So here's what a complete GSL-SE rearend looks like.

 

I put an ebay header on my freshly painted 77k mi GSL-SE that I have been molesting over the past 2 months since I picked it up in FL this year. Now I have to finish the exhaust before DGRR where I will unveil all 3 generations painted the same custom color. GSL-SE, Series 5 Vert w / TII and Stockport and an FD with Efini Twins...The "Rx7 Collectors Package" by Pineapple Racing / Rotorsports Racing...These cars are a display of where East and West! It's been a dream in the making for close to 7 years! A lot of time, money and dedication to my passion for Rotarys since 2003!

 

Well, shoot. Guess it's been a while since I was under there...

 

Put my engine back together and put it back in the car. New Atkins apex seals, new Mazda corner seals and FD springs, peejay-resurfaced rotor housings, updated porting to incorporate some stuff I have learned since freaking 2012 which was the last time I built an engine... which was this one. Oh and replaced the oil pump chain because the old one was worn out, something I'd never seen happen before.

 

Epoxy mastic.



Paint!

 

Installed a new driveshaft after the old one's squealing turned into grinding. Ordered the Powertrain Industries replacement (same p/n as Mazdatrix) for $220 shipped to my door. Took it on a test drive and had a crazy whirring noise coming from the transmission side. I was pissed that the part arrived defective but it turned out the larger ujoint/yoke was just tapping on the exhaust heat shield every rotation. A little bending with a breaker bar fixed that and its all good now!

 

I am currently doing a GSL-SE rear end swap on my 83 GS. Im having a hard time getting this brake line off. I feel like imma break it if I apply a lot of pressure. Do any of you guys have any tips? I have already sprayed it with PB blaster and nothing. I was thinking of heating it up a little bit with a torch to see if that will break it loose. (Using Peejay's pic as reference)

 

If you mean the flex hose, that should be all one piece.

 

This usually works for me:
Step 1: Pour ATF on threads
Step 2: Use a torch to heat up threads. If the ATF lights on fire that's a bonus. Just be careful with open flames :-)
Step 3: Use either a line wrench, or a box ended wrench (to use a box ended one, you'll probably have to destroy the line, but that's fine if you have a new one) on the nut.
Step 4: Instead of using constant pressure to break the nut loose, bump the wrench repeatedly (think "human impact wrench") counterclockwise. An impact will usually loosen corroded hardware without breaking it. If you use constant pressure you're much more likely to round off the nut.
Let us know if it works.

 

Drove it for a few miles after replacing every bearing in the rearend (including axle bearings) as well as the ring and pinion after fragging the 9".

I destroyed a Ford 9" in a few hundred miles with a naturally aspirated 13B. That still sounds so wrong to me.

Anyway, now I have a ultra-light, REM polished set of 4.44 gears in my nine, and new Timken bearings everywhere...

 

You will need to use those flex lines.