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What did you do to your FB today?

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Old 09-17-18, 05:39 PM
  #6776  
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Originally Posted by midnight mechanic View Post
new right front brake caliper. now I know why it is recommended to replace the rubber brake hose. because they can twist up. had to loosen the brake line and rubber hose after installing the caliper in order to remove the kink.

so those professional auto mechanics aren't full of **** all the time, never would of believed it!!
Haha, I had this experience last weekend. Did both front calipers and pads, one line was pretty twisted after installing the caliper. Instead of replacing the lines, before you start, loosen the flex line where it connects to the hard line and take out the weird shim piece (like the one you had to remove to loosen that flex line) where it passes the strut before you start, that makes it easier to do it without twisting the line too bad.

Also, on topic: my FB has new calipers, pads, clutch slave cyl, and stainless braided clutch line. I also took out the old brake MC which looks like it puked its guts out the booster side and ran all over and rusted all the flare nuts on that side of the car.

But hey, now I'm a pro with the PB Blaster
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Old 10-11-18, 03:10 PM
  #6777  
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cpt gloval, anti-seize is also nectar from the gods.
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Old 10-11-18, 03:52 PM
  #6778  
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Old 10-11-18, 05:27 PM
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That was a great video...100 HP is the new 300 HP.
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Old 10-12-18, 12:35 AM
  #6780  
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great video. thanx for posting it.
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Old 10-13-18, 08:13 PM
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Installed a budget front coilover setup. I've been collecting pieces for the last couple years, but finally got around to installing it all.
-eBay Mookeeh camber plates
-eBay top hats
-eBay coilover sleeve kit
-Summit (QA1) 250# springs
-Energy Suspsension bump stops
-T3 roll center adjusters
-Koni AW11 strut inserts
-New lower control arms
-New sway bar end links

I was thinking about going with shorter springs, but it doesn't look like there's a whole lot of room before the bump stop. Is there a minimum amount of upward travel that I should aim for?

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Old 10-14-18, 10:19 PM
  #6782  
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Mostly depends on the spring rate. Generally need less travel (or, more accurately: will get less travel) with stiffer springs.
A bump stop is usually a good idea, but nothing says you have to stick with the stock height of the bump stop. In fact, it's kind of traditional to trim it down a bit when you lower a car. If the new bump stop is polyurethane, it can be pretty short and still effective. Ideally it won't be used, but realistically, they're there for a purpose.
If you find yourself hitting the bump stop a lot at your preferred ride height, trim it down a bit, and see how that works. Not sure what the lower limit would be. I think I'd like to keep at least an inch or so of bump stop, but I've never gone that low (yet).
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Old 10-14-18, 10:21 PM
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Oh, I forgot to ask: is the sleeve kit specific to the RX-7, or is it universal for the tube size? I'm going to need to do this on my SA at some point.
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Old 10-15-18, 01:43 AM
  #6784  
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They're just some universal no-name sleeve for a 2.5" ID spring. I notched the bottom to match the stock lower spring perch. It's a poor man's version of the respeed slip on coilovers.
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Old 10-18-18, 10:29 PM
  #6785  
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Today, I gutted the entire interior save the dash out of my new FB. it had moss growing on the carpet! the seat rails were rusted in whatever position they were in!

The good news is there's no rust on the pan. Next step is to clean the heck out of it, lay down some sound deadening, and put a new carpet kit and some new seats in it.
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Old 10-19-18, 10:14 AM
  #6786  
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