Haha, I had this experience last weekend. Did both front calipers and pads, one line was pretty twisted after installing the caliper. Instead of replacing the lines, before you start, loosen the flex line where it connects to the hard line and take out the weird shim piece (like the one you had to remove to loosen that flex line) where it passes the strut before you start, that makes it easier to do it without twisting the line too bad.

Also, on topic: my FB has new calipers, pads, clutch slave cyl, and stainless braided clutch line. I also took out the old brake MC which looks like it puked its guts out the booster side and ran all over and rusted all the flare nuts on that side of the car.

But hey, now I'm a pro with the PB Blaster

 

cpt gloval, anti-seize is also nectar from the gods.

 

 

That was a great video...100 HP is the new 300 HP.

 

great video. thanx for posting it.

 

Installed a budget front coilover setup. I've been collecting pieces for the last couple years, but finally got around to installing it all.
-eBay Mookeeh camber plates
-eBay top hats
-eBay coilover sleeve kit
-Summit (QA1) 250# springs
-Energy Suspsension bump stops
-T3 roll center adjusters
-Koni AW11 strut inserts
-New lower control arms
-New sway bar end links

I was thinking about going with shorter springs, but it doesn't look like there's a whole lot of room before the bump stop. Is there a minimum amount of upward travel that I should aim for?

 

Mostly depends on the spring rate. Generally need less travel (or, more accurately: will get less travel) with stiffer springs.
A bump stop is usually a good idea, but nothing says you have to stick with the stock height of the bump stop. In fact, it's kind of traditional to trim it down a bit when you lower a car. If the new bump stop is polyurethane, it can be pretty short and still effective. Ideally it won't be used, but realistically, they're there for a purpose.
If you find yourself hitting the bump stop a lot at your preferred ride height, trim it down a bit, and see how that works. Not sure what the lower limit would be. I think I'd like to keep at least an inch or so of bump stop, but I've never gone that low (yet).

 

Oh, I forgot to ask: is the sleeve kit specific to the RX-7, or is it universal for the tube size? I'm going to need to do this on my SA at some point.

 

They're just some universal no-name sleeve for a 2.5" ID spring. I notched the bottom to match the stock lower spring perch. It's a poor man's version of the respeed slip on coilovers.

 

Today, I gutted the entire interior save the dash out of my new FB. it had moss growing on the carpet! the seat rails were rusted in whatever position they were in!

The good news is there's no rust on the pan. Next step is to clean the heck out of it, lay down some sound deadening, and put a new carpet kit and some new seats in it.

 

 

 

Finally got the car into paint hopefully people enjoy the color

 

Looks like that's going to be an awesome color out in the sun.

 

Just picked up a 1980 LS cluster with the digital clock for a steal. Not perfect but not bad. Still need to get it in my hands.

 

I believe that is actually a 79 Limited Cluster. Leather Sports had the regular analog clock and being a 1980 model, had the 85 MPH speedo.

 

Even better for my 1979. I didn't even put it together that the 1980 LS was only 85 mph with analog clock. Another rx-7 tidbit to remember.

 

worked on this over the last two days. Still really rough though. I plan on smoothing it out and possibly doing the intake in a black chrome. I don't think I want a polished intake.

 

continue sanding and buffing the paint job

 

today I'm trying to re-flow the glue in my clock to get my LCD back working correctly. one more try with the heat gun should get it! this clock did not even come close to showing real numbers before i messed around with it

 

I contemplated selling the car, drove it and remembered I like the car. Tuned Accel enrichment.
people gave me thumbs up as I drove by and I liked the car even more than I did this morning.

Then I continue my research on how much brakes I can fit in my 13s, trying to find the best rotor/caliper combo is hard with no vendor support and rememb how little help there is for projects like this and was grumpy again.

 

Why limit yourself to 13s? If you're looking for more braking power then 15s would be better.

 

 

 

Better, yah kinda. I have 13's for track use, 13x245 slicks are readily available, I'm paying 75 bucks for nearly new takeoffs.
13's are also much lighter, my steel wheels are 12-14lbs. There are some definitely advantages to running 13's. I still haven't given up on them yet.

However I am probably going to have to buy some 15x8 or 9 wheels and flares so they fit and just run FC/fd rotor/caliper combos. I'll create a thread with whatever I come up with either way.