What did you do to your FB today?
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,078
Likes: 42
From: Cambridge, Minnesota
I discussed with ioTus a few minutes ago about a Pacifica Widebody kit car that I'm hoping to pick up in the next few weeks, a few teaser pics:
I really want to undertake this project...
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,078
Likes: 42
From: Cambridge, Minnesota
That is a pretty sweet dipstick - very original idea!
Today I used a new trick and an old trick I'd never tried before. The old trick: I couldn't get the 26 mm nuts off the front torsion bar mounts so I got my propane torch out and put physics to work. Worked like a charm like I knew it would! Those buggers wouldn't come off with a 3 foot pipe on my 24 inch breaker bar without heat. Old trick that I'd never tried before.
The new trick; I improved my electrolysis setup with the front torsion bar mounts. I cut the end off an old phone charger, stripped the ends, connected to the parts and my cathode directly, then plugged it into the wall outlet. Boy! It works a ton better without the charger.
Today I used a new trick and an old trick I'd never tried before. The old trick: I couldn't get the 26 mm nuts off the front torsion bar mounts so I got my propane torch out and put physics to work. Worked like a charm like I knew it would! Those buggers wouldn't come off with a 3 foot pipe on my 24 inch breaker bar without heat. Old trick that I'd never tried before.
The new trick; I improved my electrolysis setup with the front torsion bar mounts. I cut the end off an old phone charger, stripped the ends, connected to the parts and my cathode directly, then plugged it into the wall outlet. Boy! It works a ton better without the charger.
My 85gs is on its way to being a blow-through turbo. Jesus is the man. While he builds real engines, I did this.
It's a 1/3 scale model from the 70's, missing like 10 pieces so it doesn't run on batteries like it should. One of the missing pieces was the Dist cap,
I'm going to see if I can make one, and then I can run the lines and it'll look even better.
Also have a 1/5 scale but it's untouched and all still in plastic bags. Not going to mess with it
It's a 1/3 scale model from the 70's, missing like 10 pieces so it doesn't run on batteries like it should. One of the missing pieces was the Dist cap,
I'm going to see if I can make one, and then I can run the lines and it'll look even better.
Also have a 1/5 scale but it's untouched and all still in plastic bags. Not going to mess with it
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 8,376
Likes: 28
From: Chino Hills, CA
Got most of the way through a thermostat change on Saturday; had to wait for the sealant to harden before I could fill it, but then on Sunday I had to work at the wife's store.
Today, here I am, back at the office, vacation over... so tonight I'll get things filled back up.
I didn't see anything obvious wrong with the previous thermostat (it was in the 'closed' position), but you never can really tell without testing them. & by the time you've got it out to do that, you may as well just swap in a new one anyway.
Hopefully will cure my over-cold temps problem. If not, it's down to the FMOC thermovalve. Not really much else that can be at issue, as my fan clutch seems OK.
Today, here I am, back at the office, vacation over... so tonight I'll get things filled back up.
I didn't see anything obvious wrong with the previous thermostat (it was in the 'closed' position), but you never can really tell without testing them. & by the time you've got it out to do that, you may as well just swap in a new one anyway.
Hopefully will cure my over-cold temps problem. If not, it's down to the FMOC thermovalve. Not really much else that can be at issue, as my fan clutch seems OK.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
but i did learn something. the FSM gives an opening spec and a temperature, i learned that the opening spec is the MINIMUM. a new thermostat was almost double the spec.
i also noted that the aftermarket thermostat was much slower to open than the factory ones. this part was fun, run the thermostat under cold water, and then toss it in boiling water.
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 8,376
Likes: 28
From: Chino Hills, CA
Well, changing the thermostat has made no difference. Still running just below the bottom hashmark on the water temp, and about 170 on the oil temp, even after coming up to operating temperature and then being held at 3000 rpm for four minutes while stationary.
It occurs to me that this low-temp behavior began after I replaced my old radiator, which prior to developing major leaks was quite heavily limed up.
Maybe I've just got efficient water cooling for the first time in years?
It occurs to me that this low-temp behavior began after I replaced my old radiator, which prior to developing major leaks was quite heavily limed up.
Maybe I've just got efficient water cooling for the first time in years?
aquired a cusco strut brace the other day, was never 100% happy with the REspeed one as it came with two right hand thread ends so couldnt be tensioned (good one Sam!) decided to try out this Plasdip guff, since i couldnt be bothered sanding or blasting and may want to return to original. can confirm it does indeed peel right off like a latex glove. ( had to do one of the bits again after a run in with a tree branch while wet)
Turns out it fouls on the bonnet :/ . Ended up mounting it backwards.
Also thought i should get rid of the flex bellow in the exhaust before gong in for a dyno tune, as it was a restriction in an other wise free flowing exhaust. Opening was nearly 1/2" smaller than the 3" pipe.
Debated whether to put it in when i did the exhaust the 1st time - thought it might act as some sort of velocity bulge, if there is even such a thing? Or is this a concept i just made up
Any way after a quick drive, it seems its making 1psi more boost, egts are lower, and the car doesnt feel as powerful
I dont know whats going on, hopefully its just the weather
Turns out it fouls on the bonnet :/ . Ended up mounting it backwards.
Also thought i should get rid of the flex bellow in the exhaust before gong in for a dyno tune, as it was a restriction in an other wise free flowing exhaust. Opening was nearly 1/2" smaller than the 3" pipe.
Debated whether to put it in when i did the exhaust the 1st time - thought it might act as some sort of velocity bulge, if there is even such a thing? Or is this a concept i just made up
Any way after a quick drive, it seems its making 1psi more boost, egts are lower, and the car doesnt feel as powerful
I dont know whats going on, hopefully its just the weather
Also, the gearbox is slightly noisy, and its been driving me nuts transmitting noise through the semi solid mounts and crossmember, so came up with a fix using some old sway bar bushes i had laying around from the 1830's - worked an absolute treat, but look how they've split! They were'nt like that an hour ago when i put them in - they were very soft when i tightened them down too - it took virtually no effort to (over) tighten them down like that - coulda used one finger.
Oh well i know it works, so ill just cut some new ones out of the rod of 90d pu i've got left over from the mounts
Oh well i know it works, so ill just cut some new ones out of the rod of 90d pu i've got left over from the mounts
Well, changing the thermostat has made no difference. Still running just below the bottom hashmark on the water temp, and about 170 on the oil temp, even after coming up to operating temperature and then being held at 3000 rpm for four minutes while stationary.
It occurs to me that this low-temp behavior began after I replaced my old radiator, which prior to developing major leaks was quite heavily limed up.
Maybe I've just got efficient water cooling for the first time in years?
It occurs to me that this low-temp behavior began after I replaced my old radiator, which prior to developing major leaks was quite heavily limed up.
Maybe I've just got efficient water cooling for the first time in years?
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Well, changing the thermostat has made no difference. Still running just below the bottom hashmark on the water temp, and about 170 on the oil temp, even after coming up to operating temperature and then being held at 3000 rpm for four minutes while stationary.
It occurs to me that this low-temp behavior began after I replaced my old radiator, which prior to developing major leaks was quite heavily limed up.
Maybe I've just got efficient water cooling for the first time in years?
It occurs to me that this low-temp behavior began after I replaced my old radiator, which prior to developing major leaks was quite heavily limed up.
Maybe I've just got efficient water cooling for the first time in years?
new radiator in, my stock guage never goes past 1/4 mark normally. Sometimes it
will get to 1/3 in the mtns when running at 6K in second gear for long periods.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 8,376
Likes: 28
From: Chino Hills, CA
It will rise to midpoint or slightly above under long uphill pulls - like driving up 6000' of mountains in 100-degree heat - but otherwise never moves from this position even after long idles in heavy traffic.