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Drove 300 miles and blew 7 hours going to a recycle yard for a driver's door that I f'd up 20 years ago. So sad, the car that I cannibalized just had re end damage. I could of easily pulled things straight with a come-along. Some asshat in an 18 wheeler was throwing rocks (large ones) out of window. I guess it is the perfect crime, it is hard to record him in the act. Also a pointless crime. There are a lot of miserable people out there.
The recycle yard was huge, he had 3 fb's that were picked clean.
Can I put a manual window regulator in an electric door? The electric motor has to be toast.
I made a new battery hold down for my FB today, now my battery isn't held by zipties anymore. Zipties heldup for 20+miles at speeds over 60, but they wouldnt pass tech at Autocross....
Can I put a manual window regulator in an electric door? The electric motor has to be toast.
Absolutely. I have electric regulators out of an FB in my SA, which was originally manual-window. Straight bolt-up, no issues.
You will need holes in your interior panels, though. If any.
Absolutely. I have electric regulators out of an FB in my SA, which was originally manual-window. Straight bolt-up, no issues.
You will need holes in your interior panels, though. If any.
You what!?!? I never! Really? So disappointed in you Glenn. LOL!
I have GM and Ford ignition parts in mine, so how can I judge you!
You what!?!? I never! Really? So disappointed in you Glenn. LOL!
I have GM and Ford ignition parts in mine, so how can I judge you!
let's not get into mix matched parts. Mine has a Ford rear axle, Nissan engine and transmission, some Toyota/Lexus parts and possibly Lexus wheels....lol. it's a disaster
let's not get into mix matched parts. Mine has a Ford rear axle, Nissan engine and transmission, some Toyota/Lexus parts and possibly Lexus wheels....lol. it's a disaster
Replaced the bent door with a silver junkyard door that I painted rustoleum's cherry red. The color code is RH which corresponds to SUNRISE RED. So I bought a can of rustoleum's SUNRISE RED. But the color on the SUNRISE RED's can is closer to what I sprayed on my door tn to my car's color. So does Mazda RX-7's RH = rustoleum's SUNRISE RED ?
The door bolted right on to the hinges. No ADJUSTMENT necessary. Gotta love Japanese precision!! The door was a year off from my car. I had to replace the driver's door on a porsche 914 thanks to a jealous husband's rage. Getting the 914's door to close right took an afternoon of trial and error adjustments. Then there was the 914's window and regulator. That was another herculean project. The rx-7's regulator didn't need any adjustment , but getting it into the door was hard.
Last edited by midnight mechanic; 02-13-19 at 03:11 PM.
Changed out my motor mounts, which were a little squished. I used the hard Mazda Competition ones, and have a Comp Tranny Mount as well, but.... Snapped the bolts removing the (squished) old one. It was almost dinner time and I was getting tired of eating car grit, so I'll go at them with an extractor some time this week.
I like it, but that's not what broke. It was the two tiny little soft-*** bolts that mount the tranny mount directly to the tranny. I soaked them in PB blaster and tapped them (a lot) before wrenching, because steel bolts into aluminum are famous for seizing, but "tink" they snapped off immediately. So I got some small extractors and drill bits tonight, and will be going at it shortly. hopefully they come out without damaging the threads in the transmission (aluminum).
I like it, but that's not what broke. It was the two tiny little soft-*** bolts that mount the tranny mount directly to the tranny. I soaked them in PB blaster and tapped them (a lot) before wrenching, because steel bolts into aluminum are famous for seizing, but "tink" they snapped off immediately. So I got some small extractors and drill bits tonight, and will be going at it shortly. hopefully they come out without damaging the threads in the transmission (aluminum).
I had this on one of my bolts (actually stripped). So I just cleared it out and put a longer bolt with a lock nut on the other end. SA tranny so may be different from what you are dealing with.
I had this on one of my bolts (actually stripped). So I just cleared it out and put a longer bolt with a lock nut on the other end. SA tranny so may be different from what you are dealing with.
Yeah, that's plan B. It feels like there might be enough room on the top side for a nut (it's in a little recess), but I'm hoping to get the broken bolt out cleanly. Plan is to drill through the center of each bolt, drive an extractor in, heat up the surrounding aluminum to expand it a little, and twist those lil buggers out. All about 8" over my face. The car is on stands so I'll be working on my back. Ah, the joys of classic cars.
Have done many trans mount broken bolts/stripped thread repairs in place on FBs.
If broken section of bolt protrudes from trans case,grind it flat to allow a good surface to center punch and drill. Try to center punch as accurately as possible. After pilot hole is established,enlarge to about 1/4”and use a left hand drill bit,may get lucky and pull right out.
Drill to as large id as possible to maximize possibility of extraction. If remains of broken bolt not coming out,drill thru what’s left of original bolt. Source a 8mm x 1.25mm helicoil repair kit and use the included drill bit to drill to clearance hole for tap supplied in kit.. Many times if original threads in trans case are questionable,I install helicoils to strengthen to more secure level than bolts into aluminum trans case.
Don’t be too rough with your extraction methods as there is not a lot of meat in trans case in this area.
If your drilled/helicoiled holes are not exactly on center the mounts will accommodate some offset with their slotted mounting holes.
01-14-19, 03:20 PM
