The mirror is kinda wide. Seems appropriate.

 

Replaced all the steering linkages today, tie rod ends, idler arm, pitman arm, everything.

 

Got the airbox back from paint and I finished the custom airbox install this evening. Final part of airbox vid to come soon. Here's a teaser:



fm

 

^ Wow! Very spiffy!

Drove mine to the shops today, gave it a couple squirts here and there. efr8374, wi, 400rwh. ******* hell! Need to get it to the track, so much get up and go! Just cant use it on the streets. Very frustrating.

 

That thing is awesome

 

The lens on right rear tail light started to come off. Pulled the assembly and it looks like someone did a terrible job gluing it before I owned it. So more than 17 years ago. Looks like some kind of hot melt glue. In places it has turned brittle and that is easy to remove. Where it has remained flexible it is a pain to clean out. Anyone know what was originally used to seal the housing?

I get to repaint the black mask where I have scraped off the paint. And I don't know what kind of glue will be appropriate. Certainly not hot melt glue. I wonder if black silicone adhesive would work?

 

What year is your RX7? i need to buy one of those brake master cilinders for my rx3

 

Mariah hatch mocked on the widebody!

 

Finished taking the jdm 12at apart. Now time to start cleaning parts, buying parts, finish cleaning up the ports then reaasembly. Cant wait!

 

Cool 12AT engine.

 

rotaryjunkee,
Nice...what are you going to use for engine management?

fm

 

Finished the last video installment of my airbox install.

fm

 

Carburetor management

 

Passed smog again; Did plugs cap rotor timing and oil change, and the ol' girl went through with flying colors. Decent numbers, too.

 

If you arent going to use those manifolds Id sure love to buy them from you... I have one of the 12AT throttle bodys and front covers and have never been able to find the LIM or carb hay/plenum thingy mazda used.

 

So sorry to hear you still have to go through all that still. Good to hear it passed
without issues though.

Since my cars is over 35 years old I don't have to inspect it at all anymore.

 

Used to be a 30-year rule here, til that ******* Austrian became Governor.

 

I only purchased the short block. For the low compression (boost ready) rotors and oil injected rotor housings. It had no peripherals on it. Not even the dizzy which i was wanting. If i did i would sell it to you. Good luck finding those parts. Maybe check the australian and japan websites (ebay) or google search

 

Last one I saw for sale was complete, but was 20B money... 4k$ for the assembled block, probably needed rebuilt.

 

that is the 626 upgrade master cylinder, or is that the 929....... hell im over 50 i dont remember....

 

I used black RTV, if you can take the whole tailight out it is a lot easier. There is a thread on here about it, but I used medium binder clips to hold the lens to the housing while it dried for a few days, and then used RTV again to seal the housing to the body. I think the glue that Mazda used degrades from sunlight and heat over time

 

Today I installed the panhard conversion from T3. Bolts right in from the passenger side watts point to the driver side lower link. Took about an hour or so to get the watts link out and the bar adjusted. Fits nicely and holds the rear together a lot better than the old worn out bushings.

 

Looks good. Neat solution for a product that needs to be "bolt on" in design. I'm wondering how the high mount point on the body affects roll center. What's it like to drive? Notice any difference?

 

This is one of my options. Thanks for the reply.

 

Haven't had too much time to drive but over mid-turn bumps it definitely got rid of the body's lateral movement and it's all solid joints so there's more road noise for sure. I'm not at all an expert on suspension designs, but the bar is slightly angled back from the chassis to the axle so I'm guessing there's a bit of push and pull to the front/rear over its range. Maybe I'm just overthinking that though Tomorrow I'm gonna go for a longer drive with tighter turns to get a better feel for the chassis.