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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 04:31 PM
  #5426  
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I can't believe it's running that cold.. you are sure it's not the gauge?
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 01:43 AM
  #5427  
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Install pair of Auber EGT guages and a wideband. Also 1st start up on year long engine build and install was on saturday. May have to ditch stereo and put them there along with a couple more.
Been through a few heat cycles and an oil change to flush the assembly lube, egts and AFs are sweet, ready to start putting load on it, inadvertently ripped some skids in the wet at the top of 2nd and 3rd today, still barley cracked vacuum, maybe 1 or 2 pound max, looking forward to running this thing in!!!
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 10:39 AM
  #5428  
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by DivinDriver
I figure either that, or the thermovalve in the FMOC is stuck open. Either one would overcool the engine under all but the heaviest loads.

Haven't checked but just assuming that item is totally NLA. It tested OK last time I had it out a couple years back.
the oil thermostat is available, 8871-14-810 and the crush washers are 9956-42-200.
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 11:19 AM
  #5429  
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Originally Posted by Cameron38
I can't believe it's running that cold.. you are sure it's not the gauge?
I could believe one gauge might be bad... but two independent gauges reading two different fluids are unlikely to both fail... and when I use an IR thermoprobe to read the thermostat neck outside temp, and the oil filter outside casing, the measurements match.

Originally Posted by j9fd3s
the oil thermostat is available, 8871-14-810 and the crush washers are 9956-42-200.
Interesting... I may just have to go score one set from my primary buy point, against eventual need - - mine or someone else's!

Expensive?

In other news; the car handled well on the new tire/rim combo I got to put about 100 miles on it Saturday, mostly freeway (including an extended high-speed run as we tried to catch up to the rest of the caravan).

I'm sort of shocked how much this change has changed the driving character of the car, mostly in good ways. & no rubbing occurred even on some fairly solid bumps.

Mentally, I can picture why each perceived change could take place, but the totality is a lot more change than I was expecting to feel.

Specifically, the car feels:
(Upsides)
*Tighter in the steering (more rotating mass = more stable directionality)
*Grippier (hell of a lot more rubber on the ground, and stickier too)
*Tracks better on straights (wider tires are less prone to 'groove following')
*Stiffer, without being harsh (much less sidewall absorbing bumps)
*Notably less body roll on cornering (again, less sidewall flex)
(Downsides)
*More massive feel to it (combined effect of all of the above, probably)
*Considerable more steering effort (larger contact patch and higher tire/wheel mass)
*Feels slower at same indicated speed (higher ride height, larger diameter, quieter ride)
*More braking effort required (could be just perception, could be higher wheel rotating mass... or might just be time to bleed the brakes)

Overall, the car feels good. It's just different, and it's very noticeable for me since it's the first significant running gear change I've made since going from 185/70's to 205/60's back around 2007 or so, IIRC.

It also feels like a new clutch may be in my fairly near future.
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 11:36 AM
  #5430  
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by DivinDriver
I could believe one gauge might be bad... but two independent gauges reading two different fluids are unlikely to both fail... and when I use an IR thermoprobe to read the thermostat neck outside temp, and the oil filter outside casing, the measurements match.
did you have it tested by an independent 3rd party?



Interesting... I may just have to go score one set from my primary buy point, against eventual need - - mine or someone else's!

Expensive?
list price is $95, so its not cheap. the FC actually uses the same one, so they used the part up into the 90's, although it has to be one of the most reliable parts of the car
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 11:52 AM
  #5431  
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Originally Posted by WANKfactor
Install pair of Auber EGT guages and a wideband. Also 1st start up on year long engine build and install was on saturday. May have to ditch stereo and put them there along with a couple more.
Been through a few heat cycles and an oil change to flush the assembly lube, egts and AFs are sweet, ready to start putting load on it, inadvertently ripped some skids in the wet at the top of 2nd and 3rd today, still barley cracked vacuum, maybe 1 or 2 pound max, looking forward to running this thing in!!!
Looks like your feeding the engine Incredible Hulk steroids with that tubing, lol. Very clean.
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 11:54 AM
  #5432  
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
did you have it tested by an independent 3rd party?
It is calibrated, yes... by some little old granny lady at the Rosewill plant in Shenzen, no doubt. Who probably tests them on her cat's balloon knot.

Originally Posted by j9fd3s
list price is $95, so its not cheap. the FC actually uses the same one, so they used the part up into the 90's, although it has to be one of the most reliable parts of the car
Hrm... less messy to change than the water thermostat, but much more costly. Even when you take the ridiculous cost of antifreeze into account.

I think I could test which is the issue by blocking airflow through the FMOC with a piece of cardboard & seeing if I see a faster temp rise.

My understanding is that the thermovalve essentially bypasses the FMOC until a specific temperature is reached.
If I block the FMOC and see no change in warm-up to that temperature, that would mean that the water thermostat is the culprit.
If blocking FMOC airflow makes the car warm faster, then it's the oil thermovalve at fault.
Seem right?
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 12:19 PM
  #5433  
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Wow! Mine runs cool at about 1/4 or a bit less now in the cool months but thats barely even warm.
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 07:24 PM
  #5434  
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by DivinDriver
Hrm... less messy to change than the water thermostat, but much more costly. Even when you take the ridiculous cost of antifreeze into account.

I think I could test which is the issue by blocking airflow through the FMOC with a piece of cardboard & seeing if I see a faster temp rise.

My understanding is that the thermovalve essentially bypasses the FMOC until a specific temperature is reached.
If I block the FMOC and see no change in warm-up to that temperature, that would mean that the water thermostat is the culprit.
If blocking FMOC airflow makes the car warm faster, then it's the oil thermovalve at fault.
Seem right?
yep, exactly right.
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Old Nov 24, 2014 | 10:00 PM
  #5435  
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Originally Posted by t_g_farrell
Wow! Mine runs cool at about 1/4 or a bit less now in the cool months but thats barely even warm.
That's how mine used to run as well; 1/8 to 1/4-scale water temp unless I was climbing mountains in mid-summer, and oil temp right around 180 most of the time. Changed on me sometime this year, after coming back from Vegas.

If they don't warm up to about that 1/8 point, they don't run as well.
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Old Nov 28, 2014 | 05:08 PM
  #5436  
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Just placed my order for a brand new Mode 4 Mariah front air dam.

To bad they don't have the side skirts and rear apron any longer. Anybody have the side skirts they want to sell let me know.
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Old Nov 28, 2014 | 07:46 PM
  #5437  
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Took the ol' girl out for a 30-minute battery-charge drive on a beautiful day that did not require any time stopped at any stores. Still running cold, but running pretty well.

Put her up on the skates, pulled the neg battery cable, installed my new Gorilla wheel locks, covered her up and let her nap in the corner for a couple or three weeks until I take a long break from work across the end of the year. Then I plan to sort out this temperature thing.
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Old Nov 30, 2014 | 02:24 PM
  #5438  
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Originally Posted by DivinDriver
Took the ol' girl out for a 30-minute battery-charge drive on a beautiful day that did not require any time stopped at any stores. Still running cold, but running pretty well.

Put her up on the skates, pulled the neg battery cable, installed my new Gorilla wheel locks, covered her up and let her nap in the corner for a couple or three weeks until I take a long break from work across the end of the year. Then I plan to sort out this temperature thing.

You prefer to disconnect the battery rather than use a Battery Tender? I sure hate to have to reset all my radio stations after storing the car for awhile...
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Old Nov 30, 2014 | 02:55 PM
  #5439  
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Originally Posted by Cameron38
You prefer to disconnect the battery rather than use a Battery Tender? I sure hate to have to reset all my radio stations after storing the car for awhile...
Currently, yes, because my driving time in the -7 is fairly rare compared to the non-driving time. And it takes me less time to set the stereo and the clock than it does for the car to warm up for driving, so it gives me something to do in the mean time.

Since my car is stored hood-closed and under a cover in a garage, I'd be a little concerned about hydrogen buildup if I left it on a trickle charger without some type of ventilation or air movement, too. My battery is maintenance-free but not sealed.
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 12:27 AM
  #5440  
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This evening I replaced all of the NGKs in prep for my track day at Laguna Seca tomorrow. They are sooty, but not wet. the electrodes looked nice and sharp. Look like they could be cleaned up and used again. Fired her up and let her run for about 10 minutes and then brought her back in. Also mounted the GoPro in the back.

Tomorrow is supposed to be partly sunny, so I'm stoked...so paranoid it was going to rain, which would have sucked for my first track day there.

fm
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 01:38 AM
  #5441  
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Originally Posted by Fungus Mungus
This evening I replaced all of the NGKs in prep for my track day at Laguna Seca tomorrow. They are sooty, but not wet. the electrodes looked nice and sharp. Look like they could be cleaned up and used again. Fired her up and let her run for about 10 minutes and then brought her back in. Also mounted the GoPro in the back.

Tomorrow is supposed to be partly sunny, so I'm stoked...so paranoid it was going to rain, which would have sucked for my first track day there.

fm
Good luck can't wait to see the video. Always wanted to drive that track.
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 10:09 AM
  #5442  
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Originally Posted by Fungus Mungus
This evening I replaced all of the NGKs in prep for my track day at Laguna Seca tomorrow. They are sooty, but not wet. the electrodes looked nice and sharp. Look like they could be cleaned up and used again. Fired her up and let her run for about 10 minutes and then brought her back in. Also mounted the GoPro in the back.

Tomorrow is supposed to be partly sunny, so I'm stoked...so paranoid it was going to rain, which would have sucked for my first track day there.

fm
Good luck, sir, and have an awesome time!
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 11:38 AM
  #5443  
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by Cameron38
You prefer to disconnect the battery rather than use a Battery Tender? I sure hate to have to reset all my radio stations after storing the car for awhile...
battery tenders are ok, but can be overused. apparently one of the big warranty problems with Porsches is that the battery tender boils off the batteries water, and then it explodes.

so use the battery tender sparingly
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 12:00 AM
  #5444  
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Did this today:




5 runs of 20 minute laps and nothing broke! My exhaust overheating idiot light was on most of the time and trans tunnel turned into an effective space heater though.

fm
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 03:25 AM
  #5445  
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Looks like Gran Turismo!
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 03:50 AM
  #5446  
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That's a sharp looking car, FM. If I decide to do a paint job on mine, maybe that style but with yellow? I know there's a green one, but my engine bay is already yellow so why not? But what two shades of yellow would work? Goldenrod and canary? Lemon yellow? Chartreuse? No wait, that's like a Mt Dew Seahawks kinda green.
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 11:31 AM
  #5447  
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by Jeff20B
That's a sharp looking car, FM. If I decide to do a paint job on mine, maybe that style but with yellow? I know there's a green one, but my engine bay is already yellow so why not? But what two shades of yellow would work? Goldenrod and canary? Lemon yellow? Chartreuse? No wait, that's like a Mt Dew Seahawks kinda green.
yellow and red = hot dog...

if you like we could run it through the exterior design department, although a yellow car would get different stripes, actually Roger Mandeville's cars were all yellow, so there are plenty of old school yellow race cars.

as an aside; these cars are old enough to where you can do something fun with the paint, and the side benefit, the more obnoxious the paint/decal scheme the less the muggles actually see the car.

for instance, the muggles in my neighborhood don't see Mr Peepers, they can only hear it.
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 11:40 PM
  #5448  
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Helped my buddy drop the rear end in his 83 GSL for a GSLSE suspension swap.
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 02:42 AM
  #5449  
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FM - wow, I'm extremely impressed with how the car is turning out! Amazing work!



What did you do to your FB today?-image-2122302407.jpg
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 09:47 AM
  #5450  
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
for instance, the muggles in my neighborhood don't see Mr Peepers, they can only hear it.
That's because the loudness has them squeezing their eyes shut so their eyeballs don't get shoved out the front of their heads.
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