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Seems like a decent car. Unless you run a compression test then assume it needs an engine. If the seller cannot provide any maintenance records, then assume it was abused. The common areas of rust include the front and rear wheel wells, rear control arm mounts, rear wheel arches, and rocker panels. Once the rust sets in you will find that there is always more to be found. When buying a non running 7, you must have a decent set of tools and mechanical knowledge to get the project underway. After that, its how deep are your pockets, because you will need to plan on spending a considerable amount of money to get the car right. Its obvious that the car has been sitting so plan to invest some money into it. A seller that cared about the car would address some issues and get the car running before selling it to maximize his profits. He's either in over his head or once the car stopped running, he's planning on dumping it.
You should be able to find a running one for that much money. Also, it has telltales in the picture that tell a story. See the red gas can by the driver rear tire and the what looks like an empty package for spark plugs. Also all the slop in the interior. Looks like it sat with a window open to get that dirty. The owner then tried starting it and couldn't get it going and gave up. Its a Kali car so I suspect rust won't be an issue but that interior is toast as well. Also the added whale tale adds to the narrative of being run hard and put away wet. Its basically a modified roller. Not worth $2,500.00 but worth more than a JY would pay ($500.00) so you have room to haggle but be ready to not have a running car for a few months and dump money into it and be your own mechanic.
1. If it does run, you have a car I would consider a $1500 car (-$1000).
2. If it does not run, you have $500 roller (-$2000)
3. If it doesn't run and the motor is toast, you'll spend at least another $1000 minimum for a rebuild and that if you do it. ~$3000 if someone else does it and you get a good price.
4. You buy it and tinker with it and give up. It sits for a few months and you want to sell it to recoup some money. (-$2000 + any money spent).
First gen RX-7s are not a practical car for most people. They tend to be a hobby car and those that own them long enough learn to do everything themselves. That knowledge does come at a price.
You should be able to find a running one for that much money. Also, it has telltales in the picture that tell a story. See the red gas can by the driver rear tire and the what looks like an empty package for spark plugs. Also all the slop in the interior. Looks like it sat with a window open to get that dirty. The owner then tried starting it and couldn't get it going and gave up. Its a Kali car so I suspect rust won't be an issue but that interior is toast as well. Also the added whale tale adds to the narrative of being run hard and put away wet. Its basically a modified roller. Not worth $2,500.00 but worth more than a JY would pay ($500.00) so you have room to haggle but be ready to not have a running car for a few months and dump money into it and be your own mechanic.
So, gonna get it?
so the guy had it originally at 2500 but now has it listed at 1300. so taking your guys thoughts into consideration honestly id only consider taking it for 1000$ seeing as it doesn't run and not knowing how much id have to put into it to get it running i just love rx7's especially ones in my budget but my love for them might be clouding my judgement so i appreciate the help
I agree with Dave, Tim and KC, lots not being revealed about this car or simply misrepresented - for example it's a GS, not a GSL (window cranks, push button radio).
Overall it's in poor cosmetic condition and questionable mechanical condition. And that whale tail would have to go. Yeech.
Also 1981 is probably the least desirable of the SA/FB models, with SA's being most desired because they started it all, followed by the 83 GSL if you like the Old School look and the 84/85 GSLs for the updated interior. The 1981 FB is missing all the mechanical improvements they made in the 82 - 85 models.
If I didn't already have a couple of FB's and was looking for a project, I might go $300 if the owner would give me a few hours to get the engine running and check some other things out, brakes, hydraulics, etc. It might be good for parts at least.
But even these days good FB's are fairly easy to find, it's still a buyers market. That unit would be lucky to sell for $300 here in Georgia.
One final point, while KC is right to point out that 1st gens are for the most part a hobby car, that's not necessarily the case - my 83 FB is my daily driver into Atlanta, 110 mile round trip. Once you get to know them they'e easy to work on and inexpensive to maintain, cheapest funnest transportation anywhere.
I agree with Dave, Tim and KC, lots not being revealed about this car or simply misrepresented - for example it's a GS, not a GSL (window cranks, push button radio).
Overall it's in poor cosmetic condition and questionable mechanical condition. And that whale tail would have to go. Yeech.
Also 1981 is probably the least desirable of the SA/FB models, with SA's being most desired because they started it all, followed by the 83 GSL if you like the Old School look and the 84/85 GSLs for the updated interior. The 1981 FB is missing all the mechanical improvements they made in the 82 - 85 models.
If I didn't already have a couple of FB's and was looking for a project, I might go $300 if the owner would give me a few hours to get the engine running and check some other things out, brakes, hydraulics, etc. It might be good for parts at least.
But even these days good FB's are fairly easy to find, it's still a buyers market. That unit would be lucky to sell for $300 here in Georgia.
One final point, while KC is right to point out that 1st gens are for the most part a hobby car, that's not necessarily the case - my 83 FB is my daily driver into Atlanta, 110 mile round trip. Once you get to know them they'e easy to work on and inexpensive to maintain, cheapest funnest transportation anywhere.
I see, well after your guys' input seems it might not be the best investment th fact that it had such low miles and is in decent condition just really made me want to buy it
Btw what are the differences in the GS & GSL models ?
GSL -> disc rear end, power windows/mirrors/power steering option/leather option. There are more but these are the major things. The VIN will not tell the option version (G, GS, GSL, GSL-SE) so parts can be easily swapped and you many not be able to tell.
Cool thanks man and when looking for an FB many miles would you say is too much wear and tear (i know it depends on how well the engine its maintained) but just on average i see another decent looking one that runs with 129k miles on it
guy had another post on facebook what do u guys think he said the engine will run but not drive b/c it needs a carbutetor rebuild and tune up also claims to be a certified mechanic but said he doesnt do it for a living
Just.Walk Away. This guy is seriously misrepresenting this car. All the stuff previous posters have noted.Right at top of ad he says"stock duck tail spoiler from factory". The car never came with that aftermarket pos spoiler.All his bs about being a "certified mechanic"and can't get this car running? Very clear from ad he knows not much at all about RX7s or cars in general. Looks as if he's been "working" on it to try to get it to run. Offer him $200 for parts car cause that's what it is and look for a better example. For what he was originally asking for it,you could buy a much better car-that you could drive with just maintenance.
I would not buy a car on Craig's list, it's just a bad idea. I think you're just going to keep on running into cars that are mysteries with God knows what going on with them. I bought my current Rx7 (a 1984 GSL-SE) from this forum. I literally found it about three weeks after joining. I already had owned one and was very familiar with the quirks of the car, rust spots, etc. I would look on the first gen forum for cars for sale which will increase as the weather heats up in the coming months. I would also pick up a Hayne's manual and start looking it over to familiarize yourself with the car. Unless you are very familiar with the car, I would suggest taking any prospective cars to the dealer for a check (for example, rotary engines need a special compression tester as you can't use the same one you'd use on a piston engine). one more suggestion would be to go to a rotary event such as the Deals Gap Rotary Rally, SevenStock or something else and just see the cars and ask questions. People are usually pretty cool about answering your questions, especially because you are new. You can find out about these events on the forum, I believe they are on the first page towards the bottom. I hope this helps.
Lies, all of it. That is NOT a GSL by any stretch of the imagination. It has crank Windows, no rear wiper, even the seats are wrong. I would wager that you will have title transfer issues with the kind of integrity that is being served to you.
If you have room for the car to sit as you tinker with it, and can afford a project car that you'll spend more time wrenching on than driving, then low-ball him and see if he bites. But if you can only afford one vehicle, then run away like others have said. A healthy, well maintained FB can be a fun daily driver. But a 38yo poorly maintained car is going to need time, space and money. Do you have those? You should be able to find a dependable running RX7 for less than this one will cost to get into the same shape.
I would not buy a car on Craig's list, it's just a bad idea.
I would, but you need to shop the seller more than the car. You're looking for someone in a pickle who has to unload a car that they really don't want to sell. A relative recently deceased, someone moving, downsizing, starting family, lost job, etc. You want a low mile example that has been garage kept, unmodified, and you can find those for $4-7k on Facebook, Craigslist, and Bring A Trailer so there is literally no reason to spend $1300 on a non runner unless you are using it for parts. Granted the $4-7k cars still need minor restoration to be driven regularly such as new hoses, shocks, and typical consumables, but it is money well spent to have all the original parts working as intended when you start doing what you want to it....and not having to paint the car is worth the premium by itself.
Yeah, what Chuyler said. I spent more on mine than I had hoped to, but it was the year I wanted, the color I wanted, equipped just the way I wanted, unmolested one-family owned with good original paint and interior. Sure the bushings, hoses and belts were all dry rotted and the shocks are useless, but the hard parts are all good. The car pictured looks like a good donor if you just want the body, but if OP is looking for his first, or 3rd car, it's a bad idea unless his dad owns an auto shop (and has a few FB parts cars in the back). You can't get rebuilt calipers anymore. Good luck finding a mechanic experienced with rotaries unless you live on the Pacific coast. I consider it a specialty car, as Mazda isn't likely to have the parts you need, and you'll quickly spend much more fixing it than you buy it for.
But, I love mine. Just as everyone else here loves theirs.
Edit: exchange a couple of emails with the guy first, make sure its not a robot/scam
i'd buy that car, i do not care about seller at all, its condition of car vs price.
$1500 for a reasonable car is ok, it would be better if it was cheaper.
in this case, seller is wrong about everything... car will look like hell in person, its wet in the pics. look how it looks between the tail lights, thats what the rest will look like at best.
there is no battery, but plug wires look new, so someone has been trying to get it to run right, and failed. they vacuumed the carpet, but didn't wipe the dust off of anything else, so there was probably some unspeakable horror there (rats, 27 year old fried chicken, etc).
its California, you need to find out what the back fees are, if its not been registered, they charge you 3 years, and once you tack on all the BS fees its like $700. this is ok, if you know about it, and price and condition all still agree.
also since they can't get it running, but are mechanics, you should check compression.
so in long, if engine is ok, and registration fees are known, $1300 for the car is alright
01-24-19, 02:13 AM
