Ok, lets make this short and sweet. I'm looking on re-speed at their polyurethane bushing kit, about to purchase. They have 2 main kits, one is about $40 cheaper due to some of the things it leaves out...
"This kit is based on: No rear sway bar, larger diameter front sway bar, leaving the stock rubber bushings in the rear upper control arms and only replacing half the watts link bushings. "

Now I still have a rear sway bar, and stock front sway bay, but I was mostly wondering if MOST of the people out there that have done the bushings, have not replaced HALF the watts link bushings, and left the stock upper control arms as-is. I guess my question is....why don't people swap those as well? Pain in the *** or what?

Also, I need to order new strut tops for the front, as mine are all cracked and broken. I remember reading about the way you face those impacts the way the car steers. Right now the protruding round part in the center is hugging the front outside bolt on the driver side, and the rear outside bolt on the passenger. What is the stock setup?

I also need to get engine mounts. I'm only confused with this because it is a 6-port 13b in a 12a car. Do I use motor mounts from GSL-SE or a 12a set?

 

Regarding the strut tops, the FSM details everything, but basically there is a little triangle (or arrow, if you view it that way) on the strut top. Where that triangle points effects the camber.

 

I believe people leave some of the rear control arm and watts bushings rubber to prevent binding. Get the cheaper set and email Billy @ respeed to add in the rear sway bar bushings.

Oh and replacing bushings suck IMO.... I had to burn them out

 

Oh yeah, for the front control arms, get a ball joint press from AutoZone (not Advance, didn't quite work). Takes about 10-15 minutes per arm, but it gets the old bushings out.

 

Is that the bushings that they recommend tack welding back into place???

 

No, that is the ball joints. Don't go crazy welding, you don't want to get it too hot and burnout the grease in there, but a few strong tack welds are definatly a good idea.

 

the rear upper links aren't parallel, so the bushings actually need to be rubber, as its 1, a multi axis pivot and B the non parallel = binding in rotation anyways. poly would just make this worse

the watts link is the same way.

skip stock strut tops and get camber plates, the stock alignment isn't meant for performance

id get the gsl-se mounts, or the competition ones, although the difference is very very slight