Randy, a vented BOV on your WRX will cause it to run rich. You can still buy an aftermarket BOV and just recirc it back into the intake tract. That problem won't happen on an RX-7 because we run a MAP sensor and not a MAF. We can vent to atmosphere without any problems.

Zach

 

Wah? I thought one of the reasons you throw some huge flames was that you had that apexi vented bov? And I thought we ran maf? YOur confusing me now

 

Well new spark plugs and ATF and unflooding it didn't do the trick. I popped one of the fuel lines off at the manifold to see if fuel was getting there, and it spewed out so i don't think it's fuel related. must be electrical SUCKY, probly just something simple that i fuc*ed up

 

for some reason after posting this i don't remember clipping on the fuel injector clips, if that is even part of the harness we replaced i can't remember right now... when i left the UIM was off but i had the vacuum lines routed, not very familiar with the FD wiring i may have forgotten to clip them in. i hope it is something simple like that and possible to see if they are clipped in by looking under the UIM.

lemme know what you find.

if you do have fuel and you have spark then you should have fire. the only other thing i can think of is if the FD fuel lines are mixed up compared to the FC, the fuel feed line could be positioned backward which would be feeding fuel to the regulator and not allowing anything into the fuel rail to the injectors, check your schematic or simply swap the feed and return lines and see if it changes anything.

 

how about your eshaft position sensor? maybe somebody forgot to clip it on allthe way or wiggled off. not sure what else it could be, maybe a brainstorm of minds will enlighten the matter.

 

Nick, the reason the TII throws flames like it does is because of the ports, a COMPLETELY open exhaust, and running rich as hell. Nothing to do with my BOV. On a good note though, I think I found a buyer for my motor!!!! He agreed to $2K plus shipping! I just have to wait for him to save up the money, so I'm not holding my breath or anything. But selling that motor will really help to speed up the 13B-RE process! Hey Ben, you going to be ready to build and install a 13B-RE with me and then install a Haltech too? Looks like I'll be ready for all of that by December or so when I get back from the desert!

Zach

 

actually it does throw flames due to the BOV, the apexi vents to the atmosphere and that loss of metered ait from the intake causes a tempoorary rich condition between shifts and when venting but is really only noticable when venting and quick decels aka while shifting.

no problem getting the 13B-RE done, just let me know when you have it and want to do it. too bad you won't be around for sevenstock...

tried reading through the fsm about those studs but couldn't find any info, i'm sure they can be replaced but will probably be a little bit of a pita, if you want to bring it by i can take a look at it and see.

 

I really dont' want to take the UIM off. But I guess i have no choice. I am pretty sure everything was hooked up. I'll check the fuel lines, i don't think you can see the injector clips without taking the UIM off, or at least part way.

 

well before you rip the UIM off i would try swapping the fuel lines and see if it does anything. if nothing happens spray some carburetor or brake cleaner into the intake manifold through a vacuum line and see if it tries to fire, if it does then there is an injector pulse problem, either there is no crank reference or the injectors are not clipped into the wiring.

 

Good news i can get the UIM off and back on in 1 hour, the bad news....everythings connected so it's not a problem with the injectors being unplugged. Fuel lines are all correct, i'm pretty sure it's my fuel pump, i can't hear it come on and thats laying right under the gas tank. No fuel, no fire. Any other way to diagnose the fuel pump being bad? other than the fact that i can't here it turn on. Another guy that did the swap also had a bad fuel pump when he tried to start his up. It may have gone bad, you never know....a car with 236k miles is probably due for a new one sooner or later. Is the fuel pump difficult to replace? I know it's in tank which sucks and probly means i have to drop the tank to get to it. Right?

 

FCs have a fuel pump test connector at the RF strut tower, i have no idea if the FD has one also. if you jump that connector the pump will run once the key is turned on, cranking or not. FCs also have a hidden cover under the cargo area carpet to get to the pump without removing the tank. try find info out here or in your service manual, also be sure to double check all the fuses.

 

All my fuses are good i checked them. It looks like you can get to the fuel pump from the top, from the pics in the manual. Do you think I should replace it? In the manual it says from the diagnostic box in the engine bay you can "jumper" the fuel pump. Not sure what that means but it sounds like you can make it go on without the car going on. Guess that would be a good way to test it eh?

 

the jumper is to test the pump, so yeah jumpering the connector should turn the pump on. if you are getting fuel pumping out of the line up to the fuel rail though then your pump is working and it is an injector or control related problem, ECU, wiring or sensor problem. easiest way to be sure the car wants to start and be sure the injectors are not firing is to get some fuel into the intake somehow(you can substitute fuel for brake or carburetor cleaner though since it burns).

 

IT WORKS IT WORKS, i fucked up and converted the wrong harness but i fixed it and it works. omg i'm exccccstatic i don't even care if i spelled that wrong holy ****, i'm going back to throw the dash in now LATER!

 

heh, hope everything else is good to go, have fun with the test drive.


btw, here is a teaser for my new seats if anyones cares to see them installed ahead of time:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...80#post4326680

 

hey, ben. i haven't been following but are you talking about replacing the studs on the wheel rotors. i believe its not too hard on the FCs. my brother did it on his GTU when one of the studs had to be cut off to get a lug nut off. i think he just pounded it out. let me ask him about it. i believe it wasn't that difficult a thing to do. i need to replace some on my TII as well. im just going to pop a couple off the parts car.

you have any usage for your old seats? wanna sell them to me? the ones in my car hurts my *** and its not too comfortable for my back either. i'll take them as a pair if its not too steep.

 

ahh... the excitement of fixing a problem you caused. it's such a great feeling, one i'm all too familiar with. ;D

 

Yay for getting my car to move but Freakin a my throw out bearing is noisey What the hell did the tranny shop do? Haven't driven the car yet, still needs diff. fluid but just pulling it in the garage as soon as my foot went down on the clutch the throw out bearing was making a fuss. Does it just need to get settled or broken in or what? If those idiots threw in a shitty bearing they better believe they are going to be putting a new one in for free. Might have to pull the dash back off grr, can't find the clip to hook up the gauges, GHETTO. But weeeee it's progress and i'm liking it.

 

yep, Zach has 2 broken studs in the rear and i didn't think it would be too hard or impossible to change them either but every time i say or think it will be an easy job it bites me in the *** so i learn not to think that way anymore...

i don't think i will be needing the seats anymore so just shoot me a price you are comfortable with paying and if it seems ok you got em.

you can take a look at them first too to get an idea, the driver's side seat has had some abuse but they still are quite comfortable and in decent condition.

 

^^^GOT any ideas ben? jan? anyone?

 

describe what it sounds like?

if it is just a low churning or scrubbing sound then it may just be the new friction surface on the flywheel breaking in, if it is like a rattle or chattering type of niose then it could be the throwout bearing improperly installed or seated. you could also try adjusting the free play at the adjustment rod on the clutch pedal, if there is too much throw then it could be forcing the throwout bearing too far and damaging the teeth on the pressure plate or disc. check the free play adjustment spec in your manual an adjust the rod or just play with the adjustment taking out some of the travel and recheck it, freeplay is what you feel when you press on the clutch pedal where there is no resistance, usually there is about 1" of travel, the more free play there is there the less travel there will be at the throwout bearing.

 

Yea it's like a churning sound sort of, but it only happens when the clutch pedal is pushed in. The guys at the tranny shop said to bring it back to them when I got it running to adjust the pedal.

 

does it get worse as the pedal reaches the floor or is it consistent?

 

no it's the worst towards the beginning of the depression. full depressed it's not as bad, my thought was maybe the throw out bearing isn't releasing enough. Cuz when I was letting the clutch out to go into gear it got worse till it was mostly engauged. I think you may be right that it's the flywheel. After i get diff. flud in and the interior together i'll probly take it down to the shop and see if it gets any better.

 

sounds good, since i can't hear it really i can't say whether it is something to worry about or not.