BNR turbo dyno sheets please.
What you have is the real T04B HiFi housing from Turbonetics (the brand with the logo).
Bryan crossed out the "T" on mine as well all those years ago when it was new. I think this is to show his dissatisfaction with Turbonetics?
I am not sure what the other BNR housing is shown is, but I have seen Bryan use both comp covers.
Bryan crossed out the "T" on mine as well all those years ago when it was new. I think this is to show his dissatisfaction with Turbonetics?
I am not sure what the other BNR housing is shown is, but I have seen Bryan use both comp covers.
250 wheel hp with a dyno tune.
s4t2 block with s4na rotors built by kahren
bnr stage 1 s5 turbo runing waste gate pressure.
700cc pre turbo water injection
550cc primary
1600cc seccondary
haltech e6x
walbro 255
modified topmount ( removed the undertray on the turbo )
bonez downpipe, corksport muffled midpipe, with an apexi gt catback.
s4t2 block with s4na rotors built by kahren
bnr stage 1 s5 turbo runing waste gate pressure.
700cc pre turbo water injection
550cc primary
1600cc seccondary
haltech e6x
walbro 255
modified topmount ( removed the undertray on the turbo )
bonez downpipe, corksport muffled midpipe, with an apexi gt catback.
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 246
Likes: 0
From: Birmingham, AL
Hi Guys, just thought i'd share whats been done to my turbo after seeing what BNR has achieved.
Once i read abou the BNR turbos, i approached a good mate of mine that has knowlegde about turbos and setups.
I went for a similar setup but slightly larger using the stock location.
After him and i purchased all the parts, we went ahead with the build.
I Got my turbo back after waiting for a while as i didnt want to put pressure on him at the time.
Once i clear the epa on my car it will be going straight on.
The turbo consists of Ar.50 air reasearched comp cover,
P-Trim turbine from a T66
67mm Garrett T04z compressor wheel.
360 thrust bearing
Over sized bearings installed and all genuine Garrett parts used to rebuild.
Everything has been machined by my mate & balance by MTQ turbos (in Australia)
I will be using an external gate with this setup and hopefully be making some good street power.
What are your thoughts. please share as i would like to know what sort of power figures i will be looking at.
I'd be running no less then 14psi. and max 16 to 17psi as it is my daily.
I have a 13bt extend ported, 12a turbo injectors, Bosch 019, front mount, pod and a haltech e6k.
Cheers

Car will be tuned my Maztech Australia.
Once i read abou the BNR turbos, i approached a good mate of mine that has knowlegde about turbos and setups.
I went for a similar setup but slightly larger using the stock location.
After him and i purchased all the parts, we went ahead with the build.
I Got my turbo back after waiting for a while as i didnt want to put pressure on him at the time.
Once i clear the epa on my car it will be going straight on.
The turbo consists of Ar.50 air reasearched comp cover,
P-Trim turbine from a T66
67mm Garrett T04z compressor wheel.
360 thrust bearing
Over sized bearings installed and all genuine Garrett parts used to rebuild.
Everything has been machined by my mate & balance by MTQ turbos (in Australia)
I will be using an external gate with this setup and hopefully be making some good street power.
What are your thoughts. please share as i would like to know what sort of power figures i will be looking at.
I'd be running no less then 14psi. and max 16 to 17psi as it is my daily.
I have a 13bt extend ported, 12a turbo injectors, Bosch 019, front mount, pod and a haltech e6k.
Cheers

Car will be tuned my Maztech Australia.
I can put a T76 in a hybrid with GTQ turbine wheel in a hybrid upgrade. But it will kill the performance because it all works as a system. If there are restrictions, your turbo is only as strong as its weakest link.
Bryan@BNR
Bigger isn't always better. You have 3 restrictions. The exhaust manifold, turbine housing, and compressor housing diffuser length . You will hurt response with the 67 being in a T04B housing. The diffuser length isn't long enough for the 66 or 67 compressor wheels.
I can put a T76 in a hybrid with GTQ turbine wheel in a hybrid upgrade. But it will kill the performance because it all works as a system. If there are restrictions, your turbo is only as strong as its weakest link.
Bryan@BNR
I can put a T76 in a hybrid with GTQ turbine wheel in a hybrid upgrade. But it will kill the performance because it all works as a system. If there are restrictions, your turbo is only as strong as its weakest link.
Bryan@BNR
Sweet. My setup is similar to yours except it's untuned and very rich right now.
Rebuilt and street ported motor
Garrett T04E Hybrid Turbo with 3" TID/AEM Dry Flow Filter
GSL-SE 680cc and Sard 1000cc injectors
Walbro
Rtek 2.0 ECU(upgrading to 2.1 soon)
Taurus E-Fan
Turbonetics BOV
3" Motoria/Corksport Turbo Back Exhaust
Emissions Removed
Greddy Boost Gauge, Megan Racing Water Temp Gauge, AEM Uego,
FD Alt/Dual Alt Pulley
Right now it's only running at wastegate pressure as well until i start tuning it, then i'll put the boost controller on. I'm not sure what power to expect from it, but I'm hoping for the 275 area. I still need to do some small stuff to it and get my FMIC installed. Right now it feels like its around 220'ish WHP, can't wait to finish it.
Rebuilt and street ported motor
Garrett T04E Hybrid Turbo with 3" TID/AEM Dry Flow Filter
GSL-SE 680cc and Sard 1000cc injectors
Walbro
Rtek 2.0 ECU(upgrading to 2.1 soon)
Taurus E-Fan
Turbonetics BOV
3" Motoria/Corksport Turbo Back Exhaust
Emissions Removed
Greddy Boost Gauge, Megan Racing Water Temp Gauge, AEM Uego,
FD Alt/Dual Alt Pulley
Right now it's only running at wastegate pressure as well until i start tuning it, then i'll put the boost controller on. I'm not sure what power to expect from it, but I'm hoping for the 275 area. I still need to do some small stuff to it and get my FMIC installed. Right now it feels like its around 220'ish WHP, can't wait to finish it.
Sweet. My setup is similar to yours except it's untuned and very rich right now.
Rebuilt and street ported motor
Garrett T04E Hybrid Turbo with 3" TID/AEM Dry Flow Filter
GSL-SE 680cc and Sard 1000cc injectors
Walbro
Rtek 2.0 ECU(upgrading to 2.1 soon)
Taurus E-Fan
Turbonetics BOV
3" Motoria/Corksport Turbo Back Exhaust
Emissions Removed
Greddy Boost Gauge, Megan Racing Water Temp Gauge, AEM Uego,
FD Alt/Dual Alt Pulley
Right now it's only running at wastegate pressure as well until i start tuning it, then i'll put the boost controller on. I'm not sure what power to expect from it, but I'm hoping for the 275 area. I still need to do some small stuff to it and get my FMIC installed. Right now it feels like its around 220'ish WHP, can't wait to finish it.
Rebuilt and street ported motor
Garrett T04E Hybrid Turbo with 3" TID/AEM Dry Flow Filter
GSL-SE 680cc and Sard 1000cc injectors
Walbro
Rtek 2.0 ECU(upgrading to 2.1 soon)
Taurus E-Fan
Turbonetics BOV
3" Motoria/Corksport Turbo Back Exhaust
Emissions Removed
Greddy Boost Gauge, Megan Racing Water Temp Gauge, AEM Uego,
FD Alt/Dual Alt Pulley
Right now it's only running at wastegate pressure as well until i start tuning it, then i'll put the boost controller on. I'm not sure what power to expect from it, but I'm hoping for the 275 area. I still need to do some small stuff to it and get my FMIC installed. Right now it feels like its around 220'ish WHP, can't wait to finish it.

I'm running the stock top mount w/ a BNR stage 2 on a stock port S5 engine. depending on how well you can get it dialed in with the rtek, I think you'll probably be above those numbers by quite a bit.
that guy hit 300 on a stage 1 with the old rtek 1.5
go with a stage 4 if you have the supporting mods. i had my stage 3 modified for a p-trim wheel, practically a stage 4 but unclipped. and man did it come alive. full 15 psi at 3300 rpm, spools way quicker than the stage 3 and its gained what feels like 20hp up top. only problem is creep.. but its not too bad though, seems to hold at 13psi. im thinkign bnr clips the wheel to help with that, but you lose some spool
im running a stage 3 bnr with a race port (biiiiig street port) 1600cc secondary and 720cc primaries, a cartech fuel pressure regulator, the new sprint re haltech (made just for rotaries)....havent dynoed it yet but im sure i will get more than 300 hp out of it
The Sprint RE hasn't been released yet. How do you have one already?
250 wheel hp with a dyno tune.
s4t2 block with s4na rotors built by kahren
bnr stage 1 s5 turbo runing waste gate pressure.
700cc pre turbo water injection
550cc primary
1600cc seccondary
haltech e6x
walbro 255
modified topmount ( removed the undertray on the turbo )
bonez downpipe, corksport muffled midpipe, with an apexi gt catback.
s4t2 block with s4na rotors built by kahren
bnr stage 1 s5 turbo runing waste gate pressure.
700cc pre turbo water injection
550cc primary
1600cc seccondary
haltech e6x
walbro 255
modified topmount ( removed the undertray on the turbo )
bonez downpipe, corksport muffled midpipe, with an apexi gt catback.
at 11.3 or so psi, i made 222 wheel hp and 222 wheel torque, same setup, but the moment we took it off the dyno and onto the street, we had to re tune as it was completely lean.
you guys need to get adjustable wastegate actuators , that is most of your problems
i just dynoed 361whp and 309ft-lbs with my S5 hybrid 16-17psi with no boost controller
runs consistant 12.1@116mph
https://www.rx7club.com/time-slips-dyno-128/new-dyno-numbers-361-5whp-309ft-lbs-892199/
i just dynoed 361whp and 309ft-lbs with my S5 hybrid 16-17psi with no boost controller
runs consistant 12.1@116mph
https://www.rx7club.com/time-slips-dyno-128/new-dyno-numbers-361-5whp-309ft-lbs-892199/
i just want to state, that this power figure might not have been the same as what is actually provided on the street.
at 11.3 or so psi, i made 222 wheel hp and 222 wheel torque, same setup, but the moment we took it off the dyno and onto the street, we had to re tune as it was completely lean.
at 11.3 or so psi, i made 222 wheel hp and 222 wheel torque, same setup, but the moment we took it off the dyno and onto the street, we had to re tune as it was completely lean.
was it a dynojet?
that's pretty common with non-load bearing dynos. they don't simulate the load of the actual car on the street so you're not tuning real world parameters.
I would only go to a dynopack or a mustang dyno or something like it because they actually put resistance on the drivetrain, not just have a giant concrete drum to spin.
So I pretty much read every post in this thread and, forgive me, but my main question is...is a street port or race port absolutely necessary? I will be picking up a '93 r1 and will be looking to upgrade the stock twins with the BNR stage 3's and of course supporting fuel mods. I'm just curious if the difference between stock port and street port makes a real significant difference in power.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,881
Likes: 3
From: Jacksonville, Tampa & Tallahassee
If you can deal w/ running a couple more PSI, stock ports will give you much better torque. But porting will get you to higher HP numbers quicker (albeit w/ less torque).
What are your power goals? If you want a dyno queen, by all means get the most aggressive port job you can find, you can make 500hp/300ft/lbs @ 12 psi lol. But if top end isn't the most important thing in the world, consider leaving the ports alone and spending money on other things.
What are your power goals? If you want a dyno queen, by all means get the most aggressive port job you can find, you can make 500hp/300ft/lbs @ 12 psi lol. But if top end isn't the most important thing in the world, consider leaving the ports alone and spending money on other things.
If you can deal w/ running a couple more PSI, stock ports will give you much better torque. But porting will get you to higher HP numbers quicker (albeit w/ less torque).
What are your power goals? If you want a dyno queen, by all means get the most aggressive port job you can find, you can make 500hp/300ft/lbs @ 12 psi lol. But if top end isn't the most important thing in the world, consider leaving the ports alone and spending money on other things.
What are your power goals? If you want a dyno queen, by all means get the most aggressive port job you can find, you can make 500hp/300ft/lbs @ 12 psi lol. But if top end isn't the most important thing in the world, consider leaving the ports alone and spending money on other things.
My goals right now are trying to hit about 330-350 whp once I've upgraded to the BNR stage 3 hybrids. Are those numbers attainable on pump gas with all the supporting mods minus a port job?
If you can deal w/ running a couple more PSI, stock ports will give you much better torque. But porting will get you to higher HP numbers quicker (albeit w/ less torque).
What are your power goals? If you want a dyno queen, by all means get the most aggressive port job you can find, you can make 500hp/300ft/lbs @ 12 psi lol. But if top end isn't the most important thing in the world, consider leaving the ports alone and spending money on other things.
What are your power goals? If you want a dyno queen, by all means get the most aggressive port job you can find, you can make 500hp/300ft/lbs @ 12 psi lol. But if top end isn't the most important thing in the world, consider leaving the ports alone and spending money on other things.
^ haven't seen to many ported motors with torque like this
stock ports and S5 hybrid turbo, the power come on alittle late cuz the pull was from 3500rpm but look how fast it makes power, my primaries couldnt handle full boost in 4th gear, i never drive at full boost below 3800 in 4th anyways so its not really an issue for me
stock ports and S5 hybrid turbo, the power come on alittle late cuz the pull was from 3500rpm but look how fast it makes power, my primaries couldnt handle full boost in 4th gear, i never drive at full boost below 3800 in 4th anyways so its not really an issue for me




