just bend it a little... the turbo has a stock exhaust side and the center section is more or less stock, nothing changed the dimension of it. you probably just bent it slightly when you took it out.

 

No, didnt bend anything. BNR told me it is a garret center section. It is bigger in diameter which is causing the issues. It would take a couple compound bends to make it work, but I dont want to crease the pipe doing this. It would restrict flow.

 

I understand where you're coming from. BNR should say that slight modification is needed, but I think you're making a bigger deal out of it than is necessary. Plenty of people have installed the stage 3 and managed to tweak the line slightly without issue. IMO bending it is a better idea than trying to cut it and use a section of hose. It would be hard to avoid a leak unless you roll a bead on the line ends after you cut it.

 

according to his website only the stage 4 gets a new CHRA

 

Could the turbo be clocked wrong? You could try rotating the chra a little to see if it lines up better

 

BNR told me it was a different CHRA. It is clocked correct, the water feed line is lined up and square with the LIM port, it is just 1" away. Maybe I'm too **** when it comes to issues like this. I dont like bending things it make it fit. That would be something my shadetree mechanic co-workers would do, and I always have to fix things they halve ***. I wish it was the same CHRA, then I would be driving it already. FYI, I own a bead roller.

 

look at the bends on that pipe... even mazda bent it like crap. I think you'd have the same probability of making it flow better by bending it as making it flow worse.

just go get a brake line bender and bend it a bit more.

 

I would go into my turbo container and grab two lines, I would use a pipe cutter to end up with the right length and then tig weld it. Bending it would look like **** and rubber is going to break down quick.

 

The one inch "bend" is not noticeable.

Its about a 1/4" bend to get it onto the studs for the LIM and then tighten it.

If you absolutely feel like you have to fabricate your own tube I would braze or silver solder to make sure you don't have any undercut on the thin tube, no 100% + penetration blocking flow as well as being more resistant to vibration and easier to assure a sealed joint.

But you are way over thinking this coolant line.

It is important the flange is square to the LIM and sealed well as coolant will cause an engine fire on the turbo, but this can easily be done with what BNR has given you.

Much more critical is this-

Make sure you use the stock gasket for the turbo oil feed line because it is asbestos to block thermal transfer from the turbo.

I had two oil feed lines crack at the flange to tube joint because of expansion when I failed to realize this. 2nd one was during tuning and it caused an engine fire and spun rotor bearing.

I have stock gasket now and aftermarket SS lines.

 

I would just tap the Coolant feed in the LIM (forgot the size at the moment) and get a fitting adapter for -6 lines.
Then get this for the turbo coolant feed side since stock CHRA has 16mm 1.5 pitch coolant threads.
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant..._Code=ATP-FTG1

Then get a -6 line and run it to the tapped LIM coolant feed hole.
I am actually going to be doing this probably next month since I hate the original hard line.

Or if you want to block the coolant flow to teh LIM by plugging the block ports to the LIM you can instead of tapping the coolant feed in the LIM, you can get it off the stock barb on the rear iron which I believe is a 5/8 size???

 

I'm installing SS on my turbo oil lines now... did you just use the stock gaskets? or did you use some RTV or something also? I've also had a turbo fire in the past from a leaky turbo oil line and way to avoid that at all costs

 

When I put in my SS oil feed line onto the stock turbo I used-

stock asbestos gasket to block thermal transfer, thick aluminum T3 oil feed adapter (with restrictor jet placed in it), Swagelok SS pipe thread to tube adapter, a length of SS hard line away from the turbo, Swagelok SS tube to -AN adapter, -AN -6 fittings on SS braided line to a -AN to metric adapter in the stock block turbo oil feed outlet.

I have some pics at home I will throw up later.

Inside that SS braided hose we all use is rubber that gets cooked brittle so I tried to keep it away from the turbo heat.

I initially bought the SS braided hose with Teflon tube inside, but it kinked way too easy for my comfort level.

11 years later and my SS braided rubber fuel system hoses are getting pretty stiff and they are above motor away from the turbo.

When I had my engine fire from split turbo feed hose filling the heat shield with oil and igniting it the only external engine parts damaged were the turbo heat shield melted a spot weld, scorched silicone vacuum lines from the FD UIM for MAP and boost gauge that go over the turbo area and ofc the insulation on the hood. Everything else was just covered in burnt oil soot.

Guess I am saying an effort toward heat/fire proofing can be helpful for reliability and damage control.

 

for the oil feed line I bought the one himni-racing sells, it seems nice and is teflon coated. I'll watch out for kinks.

http://www.himni-racing.com/index.ph...uehl3ltt0n0in2

 

Showing turbo oil feed line

 

Dp

 

what is that LIM from?

 

I just took the emissions castings off of the a S5 LIM with a die grinder and had a patch welded in the EGR passage on the flange and the small holes on the runners welded shut.

There are runners under those stock emissions lumps!

 

my stage 4 hit 362whp @ 12psi

 

That's nice, what porting do you have in your engine and also what ecu?

 

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but any insight would be appreciated.

I have an S5 with Rtek 1.7, 750 secondaries, 20b cosmo fuel pump, full exhaust, stock intake, stock turbo. I was thinking of putting in a stage 4, but keeping it at stockish boost say 6-8 psi. Will this net me any benefits over the stock turbo, or will it be a waste of ~$1000?

 

it would be a waste of money.
to4b wheels such as the 60-1 wheel in the stage 4 is more effecient at higher boost levels. Also, you will have a lot of lag compared to the stock turbo even at that low boost level. I ran my stage 4 at 8 psi to start a base tune and compared to the stock turbo, it takes a while to feel the power. Lets just say, at the drag strip, my stock turbo at 10 psi did a faster time then my stage 4 at 10 psi lol.

14.003 seconds compared to 14.5 seconds.

 

I ended up carefully bending the coolant feed and return lines with pipe bender and found out the compressor is hitting the LIM and turbo doesnt sit flat on the manifold. I tried to shift the LIM to the front of the car to get more clearance, but that didnt help. I can see where BNR ground down that area. Can I grind it down more?

 

is the grinded part one of the ears of the compressor housing?
This is my stage 4


Where I circled in red is the ears grounded more then what BNR did.

You can grind it even more, but be sure you dont go to far down into the threads of the compressor housing bolts.

 

I have to clock my compressor housing just right to get it to clear the LIM.

 

Would it make a differance that my stage 3 has an A/R 70 stamped on it? Im having to grind down the area just left of the A/R in the picture above and the ear mentioned above.