bridgeport, microtech LT-10s

 

Update, my 7 runs great when not boosting, when I go into boost, I can see the pressure increase to 6 psi and it stops. When I first got the turbo I noticed if I moved the wastegate it would not return to the fully closed position. I called BNR and he told me that it was happening due to me having it sideways on my workbench and it needs to be in the upright position for it to work correctly. So I went on with the install. I think the flapper is not seating and thats why I cant boost more than 5-6 psi. What do you all think? Thanks

 

do you have a boost controller?

 

it should be fully closed. you should be able to adjust the wg arm length to do this. but you dont want it too tight or it wont open all the way

 

No boost controller hooked up right now. I checked the WG and it seems fine. I built a pressure tester last night and will hook it up to check for pressure leaks.

 

5.5 psi is stock boost pressure.... it's not going to go up anymore unless you get a boost controller.

or you can tighten the adjustable wastgate...

 

Its not stock, its a BNR stage 3. 12psi wastegate. I used the pressure tester today and found a big leak at the TB to elbow. I ordered new o-ring from Mazda.

 

If the passage where the wastegate arm passes through the turbine housing is heavily worn it can cause the wastegate flapper to not properly cover the exit when attached to the actuator. Whether the turbo is on a work bench or not shouldn't affect the way the wastegate functions.

That said...when I had a turbo with a worn arm it would still make the desired boost level, it just took too long for it to get there(spooled 1,000rpm later than it should have)

 

Just got my S5 Stage 1 yesterday, will post a dyno once it is on and tuned (Microtech LT-10)

 

So I got the BNR S5 Stage 1 on... right now it is on stock wastegate 8psi... Seat of the pants feels about a 10% increase in power compared to the stock turbo which was at 10psi. All in all I am very happy with it.

I will post more once my microtech gets in and I have it tuned to 11psi or so.

 

 

So got my Stage 1 on.
188.5 RWHP (and it kept climbing but I told them to stop at 7k)
166.6 RWTQ
AFR 12:1

Setup:
Stock port JDM S5 TII engine
Rtek 1.7
550 Primaries
750 Secondaries
Racing Beat RevII Full Exhaust
BNR Stage 1 @ 8psi
Stock TMIC

Before (Stock turbo @ 8psi)
166.3 RWHP
157.8 RWTQ


After (BNR Stage 1 @ 8psi)
188.5 RWHP
166.6 RWTQ


Here is a vid:


Both dyno runs were done at the same exact dyno. If you are wondering why it is low, because this is an AWD dyno calibrated for "Heartbreak" mode is what the guy told me. I will always go here however because it makes for consistent measuring.

Conclusion: BNR Stage 1, directly bolted on with same PSI as my stock turbo offered a 22hp gain and 9tq gain. Probably the best 600 bucks I have spent in a long time.

Driving wise, the car is more responsive 3000 and up under light load (same response below that), and def pulls harder 5k-7k under wot. I love this turbo!

I have a Microtech on the way, so next dyno will show what this thing can do fully tuned and dyno'd by a professional rotary tuner. Stay tuned! (Pun intended)

 

s4 or s5?

 

Got my EMS installed and tuned.


My 1987 Mazda Rx7

278whp at 11psi before the boost starts dropping off.

MODS:
1989 Rx7 Turbo II engine (used JDM engine)
Microtech LT10 Stand Alone ECU
S5 BNR Stage 1 Turbo
ID 725cc Primary/1000cc Secondary injectors
Cosmo 20B fuel pump
RB Turbo downpipe and exhaust
Crappy Ebay EBC
Blitz BOV (non recirculating, before intercooler)

Not sure why the boost is falling off after 6200 rpm... possibly due to boost controller, or maybe the blitz BOV is leaking (read they tend to do that). Car is in Vegas currently, gonna go pick it up in a few weeks. Will try and fix why it can't hold the 11psi, then go take it to get dyno'd again at my normal place so I can have before and afters at the same dyno.

 

different dyno than post #537?

 

Unfortunately yes. So the almost 100whp difference may actually be lower when I go back to my normal dyno shop. We shall see soon, I should have another dyno sheet in the next 4-6 weeks.

 

this particular dynojet reads close to accurately, same dyno we ran the GT35R S5 on that made 496whp versus the Master Power T70 that made 449whp on another dynojet both at 21psi. the difference was noticable and felt comparable between the 2 dynos, but obviously some dynos will read lower like Mustang dynos for example. the readings always tend to jive with the power bands, same dyno we did Jared's turbo FB on as well that made 290-ish whp on a T04E @ 9psi that pulls like a 350whp FC(still lost to a modded FD i built with a GT35R at 14psi though, heh. but the FD is putting down about 400whp on the older frame garrett with T3 hotside w/new BB CHRA).

in all i've tuned about 2 dozen rotaries on that particular dyno. some read lower than i wanted but sometimes that's how it unfolds(modded FDs putting down sub 300's at 10+psi).

we did finally work out a way to accurately record RPMs for a torque curve, for some reason their coil wire pickups do not read rotaries very well at all.

with the fuel i could have squeezed out over 300 fairly easily i'm sure but with the Jspec and top mount i didn't want to push it much further than that for a reliable DD car.

it's almost time to blow up Nick's (Cosmo TT) car again! just kidding, relax it will be fine. currently it's scaring my neighbors and intimidating the passerby's on the road in front of the shop while i burn through what is left in the tank. taken a step backwards and went again with turbo rotors and Goopy seals along with a thick cast rear iron and better studding with the dowels. the difference just driving this new engine around the building is almost unnoticable compared to the high compression engine as it's breaking in.

 

Why is it scaring them? Smoking? Loud? Aggressive? BP?

 

all of the above

i get people standing outside the shop all the time to see what is making all that noise.

 

Oops :-P oh well, the whole exhaust system is going to be changed anyway, hopefully alot quieter but louder at the same time or should I say at the flip of a switch

 

Hey guys,
I am currently running a large SP s5 motor with stock s5 turbo.
I want to upgrade to a turbo that can put out about 275whp for AutoX.
Can you tell me which upgrade will be best suited for that?
I have the necessary supporting mods for fuel..walbro255, 1600 secondaries
Stock T2 ignition, stock plugs...I think that is good for the power I want
Re amemiya FMIC, I think that is it in terms of power making stuffs.
Any advice?

I only want to go with the BNR stages, thanks...

 

stage 1 will do that with ease and some.

 

As you can see in my post above, my Stage 1 did 280whp on a TMIC, so with your setup you should have no problem hitting 300whp+

 

How well do the stage 1 and 2 turbos hold boost to redline (7000)? Different boost levels effect how well either holds till redline?


~Kyle

 

Hey guys, thanks a lot.
When can I expect full boost and full torque with this Stage1 turbo?
Thanks.