Yes, there is a 500R SP and HP available, depending on what your needs/wants are. The standard 500R kit retails for $3699. You have your choice of long runner, short runner, or RHD at no extra charge. Same with SP vs. HP. Options are as follows:

Full coating $375 (manifold, DP, Turbine housing)
Anti-surge $100
Re-route $175 (only available on long runner unless otherwise discussed)

If you have any other questions feel free to contact us and we can go over a set-up that will work best for your application and/or work out a discounted package price.

 

Ryan, I've got a question about this single setup. I'm about to rebuild a large streetport maybe a half bridge if i can find a template, but for now I'll say large street. I've got 550's and 1600's a FMIC and all the other normal bolt on's and fuel mods. I'm looking at a cooling mist set up as well but I don't want to say for sure right now. I'm looking to get in the 500RWHP club. Think this can get me there without being overly laggy after say 3500 or so? If not what else should I be looking at?

 

To get to 500 rwhp you need some sort of auxilary injection to get to 20+ PSi. You can't do it on pump.

thewird

 

Are you guys running any winter specials like you have in the past on your kits? Would be really cool since i am just shy of one of your 500r SP kits. Car is at PFS getting a rebuild and really want to go single and it will be cheaper since the engine is out.

 

To get to your 500 RWHP goal, you will likely need ~20+ lbs, depending on your set-up. Your injectors should be able to handle it, but, you may want to consider upgrading your primaries also. In terms of the aux injection, Coolingmist does make a nice, progressive kit. I would not recommend running 20+ lbs. on just pump + H20 injection, but, it can be done on water/meth. Your other option would be to tune for race gas.

In regards to your question about being 'overly laggy after say 3500 or so', I don't think you will find that to be a problem. As others have claimed, this kit usually sees around 1 bar of boost by roughly 3700-4200 rpm. I am a little unsure of what you were asking with that, but, hopefully I answered it appropriately.

 

Thanks Ryan, you have helped me immensely. I decided to go with the Bridgeport template from Racing beat so I think that will help with my spool-up. I'm also looking into some Denso 850cc injectors for my primaries . Cooling mist was at the top of my list as Far as AI goes. What do you think about E85??

 

I've been very interested in this kit for a long while. Unfortunately still saving the funds to do it. Was wondering what the kit would cost with the 450R fuel upgrade shipped to 32225?

 

ballin

 

Mine ^

What is the spring that comes with the Tial wastegate?

thewird

 

PM Sent

Generally ships with 0.9 bar

 

How would this turbo work on a 16X ?

thewird

 

curious, for those with this turbo kit, what is your main usage of the car? DD? Road Course? strip? auto x?

 

All the above.

 

And afgmoto1978's FD throws down.

 

All of the above minus drag strip, however I sitll haven't used it in anything but normal driving.

thewird

 

How is it feeling on normal driving for you?


~S~

 

Pulls nice throughout the RPM band but I only got to drive it for a day at 16 PSi before the snow came. I was also worried about the roads being cold and creating loss of traction. Gets full boost at 4100-4200 RPM and is 100% steady until redline. I was able to do over 270 km/h on a slight uphill highway (2 lane highway in the middle of nowhere). I miss having full boost by 2600 RPM from the twins but the power is just much better I don't mind downshifting to get a little pull lol.

When springtime comes I'll go to another dyno to compare, probably a dynapack and dynojet. Also, I'm going to be installing the FJO methanol injection kit once it comes out and upping the boost until I run out of fuel/methanol or hit 30 PSi.

Looking forward to testing this on a road course. That will be the real test for me.

Here's where I ended up at 18 PSi on pump gas only... Note it is a Mustang dyno so it reads lower. Also, boost came on later on the dyno then on the street in case your wondering, I don't think it puts enough load on the tires.



thewird

 

uhadsunj man im so tempted to get this one but people ive talk to kinda sound discouraging and say i should stick with the 35r..

realistically it will be a dd (rarely killing it) and id say i will auto x and road course it like every 2-3 weeks..... i dont care if its the best autox set up but i would love a NASTY car on the road course to enjoy really driving the car.

now do you guys think it would be dumb for me to got 500r instead of gt35r (both aspecs kit)

 

I have driven afgmoto's car, in fact his FD was the first FD I got to spend som time with (getting to know the car)

It was a great car when roadtripping (1000 miles in 11:40:XX)

But when we would go out for our screw around runs down @ SSXI I saw what a monster his car could turn into.

Just GO with the 500r, it's a great selection.

 

so for the chart..

green= boost
red= hp
blue= tq
and black is AFR?

i dont get why that graph shows dashed lines when there are no dash lines

 

Yes. The dashed lines are if you have 2 pulls on the same graph. I choose to print out a single graph.

thewird

 

If the dyno doesn't have some sort of load control it will kinda do what your saying we actually dyno our cars with a bit of load on them.

 

It does have load control and was set to the weight of 3125 pounds which is what was listed for the 3rd gen RX-7. Except I noticed boost comes on sooner 41-42 on the street vs the 5000 on the dyno

thewird

 

Afgmoto and wird what are your turbo specs? Hotsides?

 

I got the 500R-SP which only comes with a 0.86 hotside.

thewird