lol i guess $400 Efans cant keep motors cool when the wiring gets switched up so it's pushing through your core instead of pulling hot air out....
i need to give myself a high 5 for that one....

 

So......rebuild?

 

**** no dont say rebuild. more like problem solved.

 

yea problem solved. i just switched it up. when we had the motor out last time during the rebuild the last few months i cut the wires. one is blue, and the other is black. i wired them up color - power, and black - ground not thinking.
it's all good now.

 

Wiring does suck. I'm going to have Jeff Jordan @ Jordan Innovations make a Mil-Spec Chassis Harness for my FC before Formula Drift Vegas so i can ball out. I gotta start getting this car ready for the big leagues and Jordan Innovations has the best Chassis Harnesses around to get my car to that level.

 

can your build drop anymore sex? i love this thing.

 

thanks dude!! it's still not as cool as your FD though! i want one so badddd!


Update:
got my car all sorted out. temps stay under 180 under load. it's ready for battle. just cleaning it up, and finishing the rear firewall tonight.

first time in a while i've been fully prepared for an event, and it feels good!

be sure to add my facebook page, and check for live updates @ vegas pro-am rd.3

http://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/p...198738?sk=wall

 

Making my firewall same as the MadMike/Team NFS/Redbull BN FD RX7. Lexan + aluminum bracing to keep it sturdy yet removable fast to access gas tank. in reality though i can drop the tank completely in under 1 minute.



finished top piece with 1 brace. hard to see because i removed the protective film.

 

Just a heads up... Lexan won't pass any sort of tech here stateside.. It's has to be a metal firewall. Guess it's a bit late since you already made the top piece, but just trying to let u know.

 

Yeah I feel like lexan isn't that fireproof. I could be wrong though

 

pro-am rulebook:

3.4 FUEL SYSTEM 3.4.1 Fuel Cells The fuel system design is free. 3.4.2 Fuel Lines Fuel lines and fittings must be high-pressure type and routed in such a way that do not interfere with moving parts and be securely insulated and attached to the unibody or chassis.
No fuel lines may be routed through the driver’s compartment.

is there something left out because i thought the same thing, but theres dudes in pro-am with fuel cells chilling inside their hatch with sketchy rubber line an worm clamps instead of high pressure -ans. the vegasdrift guys dont like me so i may be getting the juke from them...

they said lexan was cool but i know FD Vegas is coming up and i want to pass for that. i skimped with lexan cause it was like $20 and they said it was fine to leave it open - but i wanted to keep the exhaust/tire smoke & debris out.

thanks for the heads up justin. lmk dude.

 

lol it's not supposed to be. it's just pro-ams. they dgaf.
i wanted something to keep the smoke from getting in, and from the way the chief steward was explaining to me i could leave it open and still pass (which yes isn't safe) so i went 1 step ahead of what he said and chose to firewall it. whatever though it's no big deal. i can redo the top piece out of thin gauge steel or aluminum or something. atleast this is a good template/practice lol

 

damn speaking of fuel lines routed through the drivers compartment i need to remove my fuel pressure add on gauge and mount it in the engine bay again. my car is all hazard right now...
atleast it's all -ans

 

when it comes to safety you really shouldn't mess around, just because PRO AM doesn't care about your safety shouldn't mean you don't have to.

http://youtu.be/q6YHGon8emQ

Tage Evanson^^^^

 

Damn Civics

 

A little off topic but I want a pair of those 9k racing hood pins you're running. I think you said they were $20 for a pair. When I clicked the 9k racing link in your sig I just got a 9k racing logo nothing else. LMK thanks.

Can't wait to see your car in action!

 

the way my car is setup its so far out of the way i literally can't hit it on anything. my internal organs will suffer fatal damage before my tube chassis gives way causing my gas tank to move/puncture... it's all 1.20 wall DOM bro truck ****.
lexan is going to melt obviously but we're drifting in parking lots for one (super gay) with EMTs 2 secs away + even if the car was OEM body you think fire cant get in through the chassis in the same amount of time?

 

you have to like their facebook page. the site isnt up yet.

 

yeah, asd just had to change their lexan rear window/firewall on darren's sky to aluminum during the mid-season tech in seattle.. just don't want to see u get tech'd out from something stupid.. plus it's your own safety as well.

 

yea i appreciate the heads up for sure. i should've just done aluminum in the first place. i'm redoing it right now.

there are some haters that always come up when i get my car tech'd and point **** out... it's annoying. safety aside even that alone should be the reason i redo it. thanks again. i'm going to fire it out tonight/tomorrow when the store opens again so i can get a sheet of aluminum.

 

My cars interior is pretty much stock besides a seat an steering wheel. I don't ever expect to have a fire, but I keep an extinguisher in the pin behind my passenger seat. It's ClubLoose rules, and peace of mind.

 

street car life

 

If you don't mind me asking..... Isn't your car like 400+hp right now with no sound deadening? How tame is it? What I mean is, is it really that streetable?

Oh and a side note

Any tips on how to fit crappy fitting body panels. Namely Front fenders.

 

right now i put the stock turbo back on...again... i got a manifold but me not looking at the time i didnt notice it was for an internally gated turbo. so for this weekend it's back to 250- maybe 280whp.

don't let that fool you though it's definitely not anywhere near street legal. there were 2 other cars just as eye catching as mine to cops though so i brought it out since i had good odds for once lol

as for the fenders angle grinder + cutoff wheel, and a flap disc will get them fitting awesome. just look at what needs to be manipulated in order for the body lines to meet up and grind said spot. (usually the tabs they put on behind/under the fenders to bolt to the chassis)

my front fenders are held on with 2 bolts each side, and 2 self tap screws with custom brackets on the bottoms.

 

thanks I hit them up on FB if that doesn't work I'll try their email