Blown apex seal destroyed the housing and rotor. That sucks because that housing had no chrome flake.

 

Damn man, sorry to hear! What are you going to do from there?

 

Going to rebuild the stock engine and a friend of mine is selling a running 12a that I may pickup in the mean time.
I am one housing short for both engines lol.

 

I have a spare stock 12A housing in decent shape if that would help.

 

Absolutely. I'll text you this afternoon.

 

Since I know we have some FC people on here. Ends Thursday (9/15) night.
https://www.blipshift.com/?utm_sourc...eid=f48e30dd38

 

That second shirt is pretty rad Tommy. I think Tara would smother me in my sleep with it, if I bought any more car shirts.

Speaking of FC's.... any of you dudes want to buy a turbo one? I never drive it, need the parking space, excuses excuses.

 

Trade for an SE?

 

Tempting! I keep telling myself that my FB will be running and driving soon... But in a year and a half I haven't done very much... :-)

 

I know that feeling all too well.

 

FBs are selling for 5 figures these days, get off your butts dudes.

I didn't get your text Raul, but here's a pic of the 12A rotor.

Not perfect but good enough for a barn yard rebuild:

 

I'll give you a call tomorrow Ray!

 

Sounds good, or just stop by and pick it up.

Tommie and Brett, did you get those FB's running yet?

 

Funny you should mention that. Frankenrex did stretch his/her legs today! Still not running though, I just rolled it about 15 feel to mow the grass around it

 

Anyone have a spare 12a dipstick I could buy? Turns out I don't have one. I didn't even notice when I bought the car.

Also, I turned it over by hand, and I'm not so sure compression is good on the rear rotor. I'm not hearing proper puffs like I'm hearing on the front. Is it possible that it's just because it's only by hand?

Man I hope I didn't buy a dud.

EDIT: So what should be my next steps? Oil change? Starter driven compression test? MMO treat everything? Buy a compression tester? Pull the engine and rebuild?!

 

That doesn't sound like good news Quad.

But testing the compression by listening to the whoosh when you turn it over by hand isn't the best approach.

Did you get the battery, install the plugs and try to crank it yet?

That sure is a pretty unit, the parts in it alone are worth some bucks.



I have a dip stick you can have, please pm me your mailing address.

And keep up posted on your progress!

 

I haven't tried to crank it yet. I wanted to see if it moves by hand before I put power into it. Should I change oil and check fuel before that, or run it plugless first to see if I get better sound? I'm hoping the seals just need some centrifugal force to move out.

And I've got a dipstick inbound. Cost me $15 shipped. No problem there. I definitely don't wanna run the starter if there's 0 oil in the car, so I'll wait on that at least

 

When you spun the motor over by hand, were the plugs in or out? I've been able to easily hand turn good compression engines with the plugs removed. With plugs installed you can still turn them over but it takes a lot more grunt.

I wouldn't be too worried just yet. 12As are stout :-) Sounds like you're on the right track to attempt firing it up. Unless the oil looks sketchy, I wouldn't bother changing it yet for a test-start.

 

Top (trailing?) plugs were out. And I can't tell if the oil even exists until I get my dipstick lol. If oil looks decent, should I do a plugless turnover and see what happens, or try with plugs in and see if it starts?

 

Why don't you just go ahead and do an oil change? Always a good idea on a newly purchased vehicle that's been sitting.

You'll know pretty quick what condition the oil is when you drain it.

Then add back 1 gallon 30-40W oil, that's enough to try to start it.

When the dip stick comes in you can top the oil off to the proper level.

(Or check the capacity and add that much and you're done).

Then crank it a few times with the plugs out to distribute the new oil, add the plugs and fire it up!

 

Any preference on oil? I’ve seen a lot of Castrol around the forum. Conventional?

Should I worry about the fuel system at all? At least throw some new in on top of potentially old? Sea foam?

 

Walmart oil will work fine and save a few bucks. I use cheap oil and change it frequently.

Once you get it running well, you may want to spring for some Castrol.

You should plan on replacing the fuel filter soon.

You can test the fuel delivery at the carb to see if it needs replacing, if you're getting gas it's good.

But they're cheap and easy to replace, so put one in now, with plans for another after you've driven it a few hundred miles.

If it's been sitting a few years sediment in the gas tank will get stirred up and caught in the filter when you start driving it.

Draining the tank and adding fresh fuel is probably a good idea, if it has a drain plug, especially if it's been sitting a long time.

This will help with the sediment and rule out stale or water in the gas as reasons for problems later on.

 

Got my dipstick, oil looks ok. I might just go with what's in there for a trial start up. It doesn't have a battery though. Recommendations? Can I just borrow the battery from my daily at least for a start up?

 

Nothing wrong with that! Go for it :-)

 

So, tried daily's battery, however the terminals are either backwards or on the wrong side of the battery depending on orientation, so the car battery terminals wouldn't reach. I tried just using jumper cables hooked into the daily's battery and then onto the 7's terminals, and it would turn, but VERY slowly. I could hear some compression (since it doesn't have anything except an exhaust manifold), but it didn't sound like enough puffs, as expected unfortunately. I'll just have to get a proper battery for it I think.

Thoughts?