Actually those trucks belong to Old Guys John, from New Zealand, he has the one with the retro doors and the bridge port 13B:



and Gene, from Braselton, his is the one with the pretty paintjob.and just a regular old street ported 13B:



You can see John, first guy to the right of Greg, and Gene, next guy over, in this picture:



Tim according to Trump's accountants the 12A count was 1,023,942.

 

I think there might be some Russian collusion in those numbers, Ray. Are you sure you aren't a Republican?

 

Those are the numbers that Rush Limpbrain reported on his show today so they must be accurate.

Where were you on Tuesday? I wanted to check out that shiny new SE you got.

 

I wanted to be there, Ray, but I was in Mississippi visiting family.

 

Hey, I got family in Mississippi too, actually I was born there, in Biloxi back in the middle of the last century.

What's your last name? We might be related.

So are you going to bring the SE for the May Meet?

I wish at least a couple of those FD's had made it on Tuesday, they're getting to be dinosaurs.

I guess they were all garage bound, hopefully one of them will get the oil leaks fixed in time for the May Meet.

Hey, who was the guy that gave me these Rotary Nuts? They are so cool, what a nice gesture.

He was a new guy, really intelligent, looked kind of liberal, beard, fuzzy hair.

 

I don't personally take part in politics.... Its all rigged anyway (both sides), so arguing and carrying on only shorten your life.

I did get that trans put in after work today. No oil tonight but I'll go out and buy some tomorrow after work. Thanks a bunch Ray.


If you send me the paint you want for your hood. I have a spare hood in my shed I can paint for you. Ray, you NEED better paint to match that engine bay.

 

My family is from Jackson, MS. My grandmother turned 102 on 3/21 so we were visiting her.

I might have the SE running well enough for the next meet. I have an idle issue that I think is a vacume leak, just need time to track it down. I've been so focussed on getting the miata back together for Roebling last weekend that the SE has been on the back burner.

 

No flies on you James, you get things done.

Let us know how that transmission works for you, if you don't like how she purrs I've got others you can try.

A properly painted hood I could use! It would fix my mess and serve as a reference for the rest of the car.

The paint code for the LE is S3 Chateau Silver Metallic. How much do you figure it would need? Got suggestions on a source?

Any chance of getting it done before DGRR? Otherwise I was going to make another attempt to smooth out my orange peel.

 

Wow, 102. Now that's good genes.

Get out the starter fluid and find that vacuum leak Tommy, it would be good to see you and your SE at the May OGTA.

 

Need a quart of primmer. Dealers choice just make sure its self etching.

Buy two pints of base (that's the color you want) Second thought maybe just a pint (i'd go with two though). And at least a quart of clear. 2K clear.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SHERWIN-WIL...EAAOSwpDdVAEz8

^^^^ I've used this stuff before its pretty good.

I know there is a way to get a first gen hood inside a first gen car; I've done it before... I just can't remember how. I think some of the guys from Charleston are using a trailer. I'll ask if they can spare room for a hood. If they can and you ship me the paint I'll squirt it for you.

EDIT: looks like they are driving and not trailering. I guess I could strap the hood to my roof... Or I could drive with it bolted to my car and then we can swap hoods in North Carolina.

 

Hey Guys, Im back, wife bought a rotary so I feel I can join the conversation again LOL

 

Yeah! Kevin's back. What did you guys get, a 1st gen I hope! Post some pictures.

Those logistics on the hood sound pretty daunting James, hoods are hard to transport for sure. I think I learned enough at the Tuesday OGTA meeting about what I'm doing wrong with the spray gun to give it another go myself, we'll see what happens.

I would be interested in that 12A you mentioned earlier, I'm always looking for another 12A to work on. And if the hood is in decent shape as is, I'd be interested in buying that one from you at some point, I owe Robert a 1st gen hood so I've been looking for an extra.

 

tommy!! Ain’t it great to have an SE AND a Miata?!?! Hi from Cindy and I !! Damn fun car to drive.

 

 

I'll just ride up there with the hood bolted to my car and we can swap hoods when we get there.

You can paint man. Think about it, middleschool drop outs work at Maaco and they spray just fine.
Just follow the advise we gave you. Lay the hood flat on a pair of saw horses. 500-600 grit sand before base coat. Medium coat of base (WAITT FOR FLASH TIME). Then Glob on the clear (GLOB it ON).

I'll try to get that 12A pulled for you here soon.

 

Ray i have 1st gen hood you can have its taking up space just come get it

 

Wow, fantastic Gene, I'll swing by, good time for a visit anyway. The hood is actually going to Robert as part of the OGTA Exchange Program.

I'm cleaning out the shed, need any parts yourself?

James you are right, if a middle school dropout can work at Maaco then a guy with a PhD should be able to figure it out. Maybe.

Besides driving down the Interstate in an FB with an FB hood tied to your roof is likely to cause an interview with the State Police.

I know what "GLOB it ON" means but what's "WAITT FOR FLASH TIME"?

What's the history with the 12A? A core I'm assuming, I love taking cores apart to see what's inside.

 

it's when the paint gets tacky to the touch but not completely dry.

 

Flash time is the time that it takes for paint to be ready to accept the next coat. It should be written on the can of paint. Usually about 15min in a good heat/humidity level. And 30 min for in between base and clear.

You misunderstand I mean I will bolt a freshly painted gold hood to my car (so one hood on my car just the hood covering the engine) and you leave your house with one hood (just the one hood as mazda intended for the car to have). We meet up and swap hoods. So only one hood per car; however when we return we have different hoods then when we left.

Like I would be wearing your prom dress then we swap at prom.


That 12A I got with an early 79'. when I first bought the car I poured some gas in the nikki and put a jump box on it. and it fired up (no carb/points adjustment necessary). I've been using the car as a parts car for about 4 years. It has been sitting at my buddies house, and I assume its still there. I'm gonna go there in the next couple of days, drag it out of the mud, flip it over and pull the engine then roll it onto a flat bed to be crushed.

 

Sounds good James, I like those old school 12A's, they have character (and heavy fly wheels and rotors).

I'd better make another attempt painting my hood, I wouldn't want the State Police catching you out on the interstate in my prom dress.

Thanks guys on the explanation of Flash Time, I recall this being on the can and when I made my previous attempt I followed those guidelines.

However this raised another issue. If the base coat has runs or orange peel can you remove this before adding the clear coat? And if so how do you do this?

I would think you need to let the base coat to fully dry before wet or dry sanding or buffing, otherwise you'd get a sticky mess.

But if you do that you obviously are breaking the Flash Time rules.

So how does this work?

 

Runs in base is never acceptable. If base runs you need to start over. In that case you have a situation where you have to wait until the base has time to Gas and shrink.

As the base paint dries gas is expelled from it. It also shrinks slightly. So you can't paint while the finish is doing this. You have to wait for this process to stop. It should be on the can but its typically 24 hours.

Color sanding, where you sand your base coat, is quite acceptable. It will give you the smoothest off the gun finish, but you are painting metallic paint and you can't color sand before clear. If you color sand you have to wait the 24 hours of dry time then sand then tack then re-spray.

Metallic paint does need to be applied in a medium coat, medium coat, then control coat control coat. You already have your color on there so I'd suggest just sand it down smooth with 500-600 grit then one medium coat (to build back the mills)and two control coats.

Control coats are almost like crop dusting. Turn the pressure up on your gun (like almost double) and pull back about 10 inches. The point is to make the little pieces of metallic flecks to stand up. If all the metallic flecks are laying down in a heavy or medium coat the paint won't be sparkly. Same thing will happen if you color sand.

 

Sadly no, we got an 8

 

Those RX-8's aren't so bad. For a family car. Got pics?

Thanks for all the tips on the painting James, you're turning me into a professional. I've got the jargon down, now I just need to get the gun right.

I think I'm going to change strategies and instead of trying to paint the hood the original Chateau Silver, just get some generic silver that's a decent match for the current paint on the car, which has lost it's original "Chateau" luster and now looks more like the traditional Silver Metallic you see on most GSLs.

I'll start with the silver they sell at WalMart, if that's not close enough then try the box car parts stores, autozone etc.

That way I can learn to paint without going broke and get the whole car to match.

Then a few years down the road when my painting skills are perfected I'll paint the whole car back to the original Chateau Silver.

I'll let y'all know how it goes, with pics.

 

Don't waste time learning how to spray, whatever auto paint they sell at Walmart (I had no idea they sell autopaint at Walmart) or autozone. The autozone paint is lacquer anyway and completely different from what you will be eventually applying. Not to mention that urethane doesn't like to attach to lacquer so whenever you do apply real paint you'll have to sand all you applied off.


AZ paint is $30 for a quart... for a gallon of it you're looking at $120.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Paint-Singl...rd!29456!US!-1

^^^^^This kit of urethane is $89 a gallon.... Seems like AZ and whatever Walmart is pushing is a rip off. And that's just paint you can reduce it down and make it last another half gallon.


Btw I would NEVER buy auto paint from Walmart. That has bad idea written all over it.


I did pull your 12A today. I'm gonna take it down tomorrow and put it in a box. easier to put it in the hatch in a box.


EDIT:


Lacquer is NOT urethane. They are incompatible and urethane is a MUCH better choice. Ray, have you ever spilled a little gasoline on your car??? Your paint didn't melt did it? Urethane that's why.


I keep trying to think of a good biology analogy for you. And the best I can come up with is lacquer is like a cell membrane. It can move fluids back and forth like water or in some cases selective permeable membranes can transport things with a gradient. (gasoline and oils being most notable in autofinish)…. BUT urethane is a cell wall like in plant life. Not much is going to penetrate the urethane coat. Not much can get out either (hence outgassing and fryup).
Bad analogy but its all I had in the bio-department. Been over 10 years since I graduated with a BMS degree.

 

James, I'll translate your paint message to Ray.

Ray, Walmart sells Trump paint, you don't want Trump paint on your car. Period.