Hey Derrick, leave the lip polished and gloss black the spokes. I know it's been done a million times over but it would look EFFING GREAT on your car. Really man.

I'm debating whether or not to paint the stockers on the Subie in the classic bronze. I know it looks good, but I also like how they look now. I've already decided that I'm going to buy a new gun and redo the bumpers, and then paint the stock GT lip and skirts in the factory color rather than the faded grey.

 

I thought about that Jimi, but even the lip is scratched and dinged on a 1/2 of the rims...and the other half have some curb rash that I just hope to fully hide. But since I plan on some serious layers of spray (like I said same ceramic stuff that survived the hit on the T2 which I still have pics of) It shouldnt be too much for me to go back to a polished lip, but only if I decide it would look better. But right now I think solid black with the only 'polish' showing at all would be the brake rotors, and even the calipers will get a coat of black paint and when I order my new rotors and pads, again more black.

But if you get a new gun....I want some bodywork and paint ala Jimi! Like...seriously....at least the back half of the car before it gets any worse lol

 

I might consider doing some work for hire in January after my hours taper off at work. I'll only be able to do small jobs without a garage, but I can do spot repairs or bumpers/fenders really easy. I'll be doing work on the Subaru and the bike and probably the Cheeto as well to start getting some experience. If I still have the Cheeto next Spring then maybe I'll lay a different color on it.

 

Well repairs would be nice, since I can always just spray bomb it in the garage here again, which im sure a fresh coat of black would be nice lol since it is 'aging'

 

How about some paint that umm... ages slower?

 

Find me some rattle can that doesnt fade from black to grey and we gots us a deal. I mean thats all its doing starting at the roof and going down slowly is turning grey...kinda cool in a way, but id have to reshoot the entire car and THEN let it 'age' if i wanted to keep the look. Since ive had to redo a couple spots and its starting to show.

 

Rattle can paint just doesn't hold up. However, if your paint is rough, then you could lay clearcoat on it and it'll still look flat as long as you lay really thin coats. Just a thought.

 

bah someone buy the TII so i can move and pick up the Skyline already....

 

no shanks....had one already...love my NA more.

Ill figure something out eventually jimi, though my rattle can is actually rather smooth, at least the primer stages were. Last coats of color were shot and never touched except the front clip...cuz of some wierd 'crackling' issue the paint started doing in the middle of the night after I JUST finished...oh well.

Gonna have to sell me a kidney or something soon...I want my Conquest worry free drivable and my damned NA ready to be stripped down further...someone buy my race rubber...

 

Derrick man, that "crackling" of your paint overnight was one of two things: too much humidity or too low of temperature. Maybe a combination of the two. Humidity really kills. Also, if you don't thoroughly clean the surface right before you spray and it's been rained/shat upon, then that's going to cause adhesion issues.

I miss the smell of fresh paint, and the crazy dreams that result.

 

heh xD

woot acid trip dreams!

 

Yeah, you do one part at a time, because if you do too much at once then it will start changing colors and the walls will start bleeding. Really it's not bad at all with a good mask, but the fumes tend to build up in the house a bit. I came upstairs one day after painting and you could see rays of sun shining all through the living room. That can't be good.

 

naw im gonna say not...

so someone stole my steam account... hes gonna die. i promise you. SO pissed off right now.

 

Steam?

 

Yeah, im sure it was probably humidity, but why JUST the front of the car? I shot the entire thing at the same time and only the front end came out wonky.

Btw, the NA JUST rolled over 200K miles on the original suspension and bushings and stuff...and got a fresh oil change and soon new plugs and maybe advance my timing a wee bit for ***** and giggles.

 

yeah its the network program for Half Life, and a bunch of other games.

 

Mmmm upped the timing a bit on the NA and gave it fresh plugs, and readjusted my TPS to where I had it set a while ago. Runs much smoother with less hesitation issues.
Even replaced the plugs in the conquest....and damn did it need it, front two plugs totally funky and fouled, with the rear two plugs being a nice tan color....

 

How many degrees did you advance the timing? Did you measure it or just turn the CAS a bit?

 

Jimi tell me your gonna ship that CMC tommorow... IS NEEDED.

 

I just turned the CAS a bit. How the hell anyone measures that stuff is beyond me since theres no real spot that says "O"degrees...

 

You measure it from the pulley. There's two top-dead-center marks, one for leading and one for trailing. How much you advance it is kinda critical, but if you're running smoother and not killing your power and mileage then I'd say you're okay. I'm not sure what FC guys run as I've only fooled with it on carbed first gens.

 

Yikes... I'm gonna be a bit out of town tomorrow but I'll try and send it out before I leave.

 

yeah but honestly thats not really an accurate way to do it is it? I mean for one you woul have to first line up the marks then restab the CAS then open the lid and turn from there...screw dat

 

Nah, you measure the distance on the pulley, not the CAS. You measure out 360 degrees around the circumference and make marks where you want it set. So if you want it advanced 20 degrees from leading TDC, then you would measure out 20 degrees, mark it, set that mark at TDC, and then restab the CAS from there. But that's for advancing it all the time... you need a timing light to set advance for specific RPMs. At least that's what all I remember from reading 1st gen timing threads. I would do a search in the 2nd gen section because I'm sure a lot of people have played with it. I do know that you have to be CAREFUL with it or you could damage the motor. First gens just happen to be very forgiving.

 

Meh...from what ive read turbo guys retard timing an most NA guys just advance it. Since im somewhat sure the timing was set normally and all I did was adjust the cas then i should be ok for now.