Mike, honestly I don't think it would've mattered what boost control I had last night. I went from driving in 80 degree weather to down in a valley beside water where I bet the temp was 20 plus degrees cooler and dumb me just didn't think about it until after I had already went WOT. I think that big of a drop in temps combined with a 3rd gear, 75mph, 6000rpm kick, well, I was just asking for it. But all is well.

I sold my old fishing boat Sunday morning so I have a little more extra cash to play with again. Back to being fickle on what I want to buy next

 

i think the guys down at static x have put a clutch in a porsche before. so i dont see why it would be difficult for you to do it, its just a pain in the ***.

not to get off subject but...... i blew the motor in the rx-3 about 2 sundays ago down at talladega grand prix, well the front rotor bearing gave up and i had an oil pan full of copper. well we had an old FC in the back with an atkins build so we pulled the motor and we are going to run FI with megasquirt. sooo i was wondering...

does anyone local have a 13b road race header?
13b light weight flywheel?
or a dual webber intake?

 

Mike, When I turned my boost up after changing injectors I was pretty amazed at how rich it ran too. I added fuel first just incase and ended up having to take 15% or more out in some places. If you are that rich, 10:1, I would take 5% out and see how much that changes, should be about 10.5:1. Sounds like you can take 10%+ out depending what you want the AFR's to be. I would also use the PIM voltage/rpms first, then go into the map and remove fuel after I got it close and reset the PIM to 100%. Maybe this will help speed up tuning.

 

Thanks, I played around with the PIM volts/ rpm before when I was trying to get the idle better. I will look at it again. I should not be far off from the last tune as everything is the same minus a larger compressor wheel and long runner mani. I would have thought it to be way lean but maybe the slower spool is causing the richness down low but I knew Brian tuned it pretty rich (low to mid 10's). I am going for 11.0 and high 10's way up top. I am going to tune up to 16psi on pump and if all goes well start playing with c116 and higher boost. I will try and post a few logs off the watch if anyone cars to see duty cycle, rpm, air temp, water temp, boost, knock, air fuel, etc..

 

here you go if anyone cares to see how the logging is going. I cut many items out just leaving duty-rpm-boost-ar's.

Inj(%) Rpm Boost Wide Band

39.2 4393 .00 12.102
43.2 4416 .04 11.141
45.2 4445 .06 10.839
48.5 4480 .08 10.4
50.7 4507 .11 10.318
41.7 4520 .13 9.878
45.5 4515 .16 10.18
46.3 4592 .18 10.043
46.5 4641 .23 10.153
46.5 4678 .31 10.675
46.6 4728 .38 10.62
46.6 4770 .42 10.784
46.7 4832 .48 10.757
46.7 4885 .57 11.388
47.0 4966 .70 12.02
46.9 5020 .85 11.91
47.1 5105 .96 11.141
47.3 5197 1.02 10.784
47.3 5277 1.04 10.18
48.4 5376 1.06 9.988
49.3 5430 1.07 9.961
50.2 5498 1.07 10.071
51.9 5597 1.08 9.631
53.1 5690 1.09 9.631
54.5 5791 1.10 9.933
55.3 5845 1.11 10.043
57.1 5933 1.12 9.906
57.5 6033 1.10 10.016
56.8 6122 1.06 10.427
58.2 6218 1.04 10.043

 

Sooo, I jack it up tonight thinking it wil be the oil level sensor leaking but no its the oil pan on the drivers side. I knew it had one striped bolt hole and thats right were its leaking but was able to bend it up and seal it good enough before with no leakage. I tried a tad larger sheet metal screw and was able to tighten it a good bit but I am sure it will not fix it now that it has a bad seal. Anyone have any ideas on how to fix the leak with out pulling the motor? This really pisses me off as I can not stand oil leaks!

 

I wonder if I can rethread the hole bigger?

 

So does this mean I should expect the same issue?

 

you can ghetto fix it... like silicone or some type of sealer or liquid gasket would get it.

 

No, dont you have a pan brace?

I am going to order one today and just plan on pulling the sub frame one night.

But so far with it idling in the driveway no leaks. But I also think it is leaking from positive crank case pressure, maybe I will order a catch can too.

 

Mike, you should be able to get a Tap that's one size bigger than what the bolt is now at any autoparts store and get a new bolt for that Tap. The Tap of course will cut new threads for the bigger sized bolt. I had this to happen on one of my GTs I use to own and that's what my grandad and I did. Although, I haven't looked at the bolts on the oil pan of our FDs, I still think this would work unless I'm misunderstanding your problem.

 

Yeah, a Gotham Racing pan brace.

 

Well I will drive it in the morning and see how the leak is and from there decide if i will get the brace and install or try and re tap it with a lrger bolt.

 

Well, I ordered the clear turnlamps for the stock front from RP today. And I ordered the AEM wideband and a single gauge, gauge-pod that the wideband will be going in from rx7store as well today.

I've decided to keep the stock front for a while. My next few purchases plan on being a carbon fiber manifold cover, Koyo radiator, FEED sideskirts, 99 spec lip, upgraded stereo and possibly swap my wheels out for either the same ASA design in black with machined polished lip or go ahead and get some gold Advans or the gold O.Z. wheels.

Pics below: ASA AR1 in black, O.Z. Crono HT, Advan RGII, Advan TCII

 

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=615004

check this out..

 

ha i have the ASA AR1s in black with the polished lip staggered on my E36 bmw.

ha theese wheels are some troopers. i have hit numerous pot holes (brimingham driving ) and i have even got a couple feet of air in my bmw :0 and my rims are not dented or bent at all.

 

Personally I like bronze better than gold on a red FD. I also like the black wheels with polished lip.

 

[QUOTE=hus;7067198]Well, I ordered the clear turnlamps for the stock front from RP today. And I ordered the AEM wideband and a single gauge, gauge-pod that the wideband will be going in from rx7store as well today.



Brad, It's been awhile since I looked into it but I heard people having issues with the AEM wideband years back. Did they come out witha new unit? Can this one be logged into your datalogit?

 

Mike - Here's the link to the AEM unit I bought. If it doesn't do what I want it to do then I'll just sell it and buy another one...no biggy. http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/aemuego.htm

Gilgamesh - I know what you're saying, I have the silver finish ASA AR1s now and for the price they are very durable and give the FD a great look IMO.

Chris - I like the bronze as well but I've been looking at some red FDs with a variety of different gold wheels (some dark gold that look bronze) and I really like them. Also I've been toying around with putting gold wheels on my red Gran Turismo FD and my red Need For Speed Carbon FD and I like the looks of them...even though those are video game graphic wheels

Just trying different things. For me I don't want to fall into a sarcastic "wow, that's original" category. Not that I'm doing so much that's so different than everyone else but just so that a vari slightly. Who knows, I might end buying so many parts and then taking them off and setting them on the shelf that if I ever buy me a FD shell I can just throw them on it, like ol'Phil Anyway, no worries.

 

Brad, see if he will send you the LC-1 instead. I can help you hook it up and use it. I cannot remember what it was but I remember hereing problems with the AEM one before..

 

I sat on an AEM wideband uego for almost two years before i found someone to buy it and i still lost my *** on it.

 

Ok, here we go...I've been struggling with a few things on my car, duh right? Anyway, I started removing parts tonight to start my FMIC install and even though I think I could get by with my stock radiator for a while I figure I could use an upgrade. So I emailed Jason at rx7store and told him to cancel the AEM wideband order and ship me the Koyo radiator instead.

Next, further along into my whole FMIC soap oprea that's going on in my garage, I don't know if I want to go thru with the intsall or not. I just don't know about all the cutting and stuff (that's right Don, I said it). Second, even though I know I can use it if I ever go single, I don't know if I like the looks of it with the stock bumper and since it'll be a while before I change out my front bumper then I'm thinking of maybe purchasing a cheapo SMIC and stashing the FMIC in my garage until I purchase a different front.

I've attached some pics below of a VR with a FMIC using the stock front and I just don't know how I feel about the look yet. So let me know what you guys think.

Thanks,
Brad

 

Well, I'm not a fan of FMICs, so I'm probably not the person to ask. There has been debate after debate on SMIC vs FMIC vs VMIC, and I think it all boils down to what purpose you plan for the car, the apperance you're looking for, and the amount you want to spend (in that order).

 

If I were doing it all over again I would might go with a V-mount over a fmic. But I do not like the look of a V-mount from either angle. I remember going to a tuning event back a few years ago. On the way there another FD with a V-mount was following me. I ask him what his intake temps were and they were atleast 20 degrees C colder than my FMIC! But they are pricey!

Road race and everyday driving, Don is right SMIC is the way to go.

Drag racing= FMIC=me!