Ok, Mike it might be time for an intervention!

Anyway, I got fickle again and since I still haven't got my LM-1 wideband I canceled the order on it and got the Greddy FMIC M-spec core and the Greddy elbow without the BOV flange. I know, I know, the LM-1 is probably more important for me to have, and I'm still getting one, but it'll just be about another month before I do.

Mike, the Greddy FMIC M-spec core is the one me, you and Don were talking about at Big Ed's. I did some research and found out the reason it's so cheap (ie. FMIC with piping for $480 shipped) is that Greddy is outsourcing to Tiawan and that's where this FMIC is being made and therefore doesn't carry Japanese pricing and shipping cost. I have been told by many that the quality and function is just as good as the $1300+ FMICs. I was also told that the fitment is the same as all the other Greddy FMICs. So I'm giving it a shot.

You all can flame me now for not getting the LM-1 before I get the FMIC. I'm also going to purchasing a Koyo radiator soon.

 

Mike, I'll be working on "things" on the car this weekend, so just give me a call.

Brad, a wideband is really not a necessity. It gives exact AFR to aid in tuning. Your regular o2 sensor does the same job but with less accuracy.

 

Don, yeah I know the wideband isn't a necessity but we all had big discussion on how we were all going to get hard into tuning and a wideband is the only way to get as close to a good tune as possible without a dyno. I guess I'll be tuning mine on my own later down the road.

 

Yup, I got my GReddy FMIC M-spec in today and I have to say that it looks pretty involved...given I have no experience in taking the front bumper off an RX-7. Other than that I don't think it would be to bad. So now I have a boost controller and a FMIC that need to be installed but no experience in either. I want learn, but figure I could use some pointers I might be going to Mike's with help on the boost controller but I doubt he wants to tackle a FMIC

I also printed of the install instructions in English from GReddy's website. Thanks for any tips.

Brad

 

Brad, Congrats on the Greddy FMIC... I guess I'm bit too late as I've decided to NOT use my Greddy FMIC..

In order to take the bumper off, you would need to take the undertray, head light covers, and flex 10mm socket. There are three nuts that holds the bumper and fenders and then you would have to get to the screws inside the fender well.

Once you know what I'm talking about, It shouldn't take more than 30mins to remove it.

If you roll thru Bham, let me know and you could come by and I'll show you.. Also, you'll see how the FMIC mounts.

Also, be prepare to trim the front bumper... and you might not be able to use the bumper support (I couldn't with 99 front).

 

Thanks for the tips Phil. Also, I don't know how much you would sell your FMIC for but I got this one brand new for $480 plus shipping. Apparently GReddy is outsourcing some their items to Taiwan now, so the cost dropped considerably from one made in Japan.

 

Brad, whats your schedule like this weekend?

 

I'm good for whatever.

 

Yikes, Thats cheap!

Here are some pics of greddy fmic i saw yesterday on the forum.. It might help alittle

 

I marked the spots for ya.. Hope it helps..



The red arrow points to the nuts and bolts you need to take off.

 

There is probably a great deal of trim work to the core support and possibly to the bumper reinforcement involved. I paid someone else to put my HKS fmic on and didn't realize how much trimming he did until I decided that I wanted to go with a v-mount instead. I going to try to use the same IC although its going to be a tight fit.

 

Phil, thanks for the pics and the bolt location!

One of the problems I'm seeing from looking at those pics is my HKS Super Megaflow Intake. Is the piping going to the crossover pipe going to work with my current intake? Here's my current intake:

 

Luke, Greddy FMIC's don't require cutting.. if so, little

Hus, Most likely you would have to come up with something for the intakes. Also remember that your radiator will now sit straight up! That requires doing some cutting.. all I remember is that was pain in the ***.

 

Call me stupid or lazy or whatever, but with some of the other things I got going on right now I'd just about prefer to pay someone to put this thing on.

Trying to change jobs, looking at selling my house, looking at building a new house and trying to teach my oldest son how to play tee-ball...well, you guys understand.

I know paying someone to do it is kinda defeating the purpose of me learning my own car but I don't know if I really want to do this or not. I know some of you are thinking I shouldn't of bought then...oh well.

 

Lets do the boost control first then worry about the fmic.

 

Gotcha!

In this pic of my intake you can see how long the pipes are. I think I could cut those back a little to make room for piping and the radiator. <--or is that too far fretched? Or can I just eliminate those pipes and have it fit like the HKS Racing Suction Kit?

 

Dont be frustrated Brad... Its all good!

It will take you a one day to put all that together.. Just that Intake might be an issue as the radiator and IC piping might .. hit each other.. I think primary might work but secondary intake, you might want to take the airpump off and shorten the aluminum piping.

Just take a look at the pic above and see where the radiator and the piping will cross. Also, when you put the IC pipings together, make sure to tight them tightly (or use multiple clamps). I had an issue with couplers popping off.

 

Thanks Phil,

I think that I can eliminate those pipes on my intake all together. I've seen the HKS Racing Suction Kit on some FDs and I think the non-polished pipes on my kit are the same shape as the polished ones on the Racing Suction Kit and I've never seen anyone use those long pipes on the Racing Suction Kit. So maybe they won't be a problem if I just remove the polish pipes on my kit.

HKS Racing Suction pics:

 

hmm.. I'm not sure as it looks to me the angles are bit different.

Just so you know, I got my Blitz intake modified when I had the Greddy FMIC.. Its a combination of Blitz intake, Apexi intake, and the hard piping kit.. custom welded and polished by Garfinkle. It was a bit of work as I had to figure out where to be cut and welded.. but it was one of a kind..

Once you have the FMIC on, you'll see what I mean.. I'll also try to find some old pics and post it here..

 

I may be out in left field here, but couldn't you just take the secondary filter and put it on the polished pipe and get rid of the 'S' piece?? Or will it not fit like that?? You can always vent the BOV/ABV which ever it is to the atmosphere.

 

Thanks. I'm sure I can work something out.

 

Chris, that may be possible. That pic of my engine bay is well over a year old and currently I have the BOV and the CRV vented and the "S" pieces capped. So I don't see why that wouldn't work. Guess I just didn't think of that

 

LOL! I say do what Chris said about the filters if its the same diameter as the HKS piping.

Or, just get couple of KN filters.. I've heard awhile back those HKS doesn't filter too well, But I don't think filters make that much different as I've seen single turbo guys running around with screen on their turbos.

 

I've actually been wanting some K&Ns for a while anyway. The HKSs actually filter pretty well as long as you keep them charged or oiled...but that oil is sticky and I hate applying it all them time. I have yellow ones now. They look pretty cool but they get dirty quicker than the greens. Guess I'm K&N shopping.

 

how about tomorrow at noon? We can try and knock out the boost control. ?