Bushings.

 

Marc40

I have a 1982 RX7 with a 12A motor, the motor went, looking to put a 1981 12A in.
As you know, the 1981 had a thermo reactor and the 1982 is an exhaust manifold.
Can I put the exhaust manifold in the one that had the thermo reactor along with a new exhaust manifold gasket that would block the two lower holes? Is this possible?

Please advise.


Thanks

Marc

 

just plug the holes with the gasket and some hi-temp silicone and you will be fine....
in the us onle the 79-80 models came with the thermo reactors.... 81-85 had the normal exhaust manifolds...

 

Hey Robert,
I just opened up my S4 13B N/A block and found that the rear Iron housing was damaged,
here are some pics.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...GXL/GXL003.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...GXL/GXL004.jpg

can I get a used rear housing and still be able to rebuilt my motor?


Thanks in advance

 

ohhhh, no good.. get another rear housing for sure!! make sure you check all the other housings carefully too..

 

Im tuning 12a turbo. but i am unsure with the 12a's limitations etc.

The engine has high compression rotors but high milage. We have not compression tested it yet but with the leading plugs out it sounds good. (i have 7's 9's and 10 heat plugs to play with)

It is running a t3 turbo currently @ 6 psi. (elford turbo) For those unfamiliar it has a SU carb passing fuel through the compressor with no intercooler.

It has a 12a turbo dizzy

second gen direct fire ignition mod

Fuel system consists of a holley blue top fuel pump and reg.

Also has water injection (pre turbo)

This is the basic spec. We only have racing beats ideas for the timing.

so basically im looking for ideas on afr targets between 5 and 14 psi and timing targets if poss.

would be gratefull for any help with this.

Cheers Ollie

 

well the 12a turbo dizzy retards boost up to 5 psi, so if you more that 5 pounds of boost , especially with 9.4 compression and pump gas i would highly reccomend locking the centirical advance weights in the dizzy. also set the timing at no more than 10 degrees advanced total for the safety of your motor.. use the 9 heat range spark plugs and look for the afr's on the 11's to be again on the safe side.. with conservitive timing and a fairly rich air-fuel mixture 10 pounds of boost should be very reliable!

 

Okay Robert heres one for you. I have no clue what this is. On the 12A front iron theres a small plug of some sort on top of the iron right underneath the distributor advance and another one on the side of the iron but only smaller. The reason I ask is because my motor is leaking oil from these two plugs. Any ideas? This motor has 0 miles.

Thanks, Ed

 

Ok, Ill admit this is probally the most newbie question one can ask, There I admitted it. I ask cause I havent found one yet: Is there a writeup for rotary ignition timing? Mine is ok so I havent touched it yet, but I would like to experiment a little as well as have a better understanding before I start experimenting.
I was told that the timing is advenced at lower rpms, and retards into the higher rpms. opposite of piston engines, thus centrifugal advance, but then pistons and rotors arent very alike now are they.

Also I plan on doing my own porting later, so does the timing need to be changed with each type of porting? (E.G. a streetport will have different characteristics than a Jport right?) It would be cool but somewhat illogical if the timing didnt need to be touched at all.

I have more intents / questions, but Ill wrap it up here to not get confusing.

PS, what is dizzy? is it turbo dizzy?

 

Rather than characteristics, I should have said "a Jport probally wont open and close at the same timing degrees as a street or stock port" I know that some people can be very critical of word choices

 

those plugs are oil galleys.... they should noy be leaking, but you already knew that!!lol

 

no, what you heard is wrong, the dizzy or distributor advances timing like a piston motor regardless of what you heard...

a dizzy is a aussy term for distributor
as far as porting goes please e mail me before you do anything stupid... thanks

 

Which 2 spots, leading or trailing, would you put colder plugs? And are 10's too cold to run on a lightly modified T2? I'm pretty sure I have 7's all the way around right now. Thanks

 

trailing plugs are always colder... on a slightle modified turbo motor 9 heat range plug should be cold enough..

 

I just happened upon a dual Weber intake manifold for a 12A with linkage but no carbs. Which carbs will fit it?

 

40,42 or 45mm weber carbs.. getting the carbs synched up is a nightmare on those setups though.. there is a reason they stopped making those setups......if you want a 4bbl then go with a holley...

 

So far after my limited slip installation I've managed to blow apart the bearing race in my driver's side axle, along with a rear diff mount. After installing another aluminum cover, with two newer diff mounts. On first burnout after reinstallation, both rear mounts were torn to shreds.

This happened when launching at around 3500 RPM, in my S4 NA. I've recently purchesed Mazdatrix competition style mounts, and am probably going to install a pinion snubber, as well. I'm running R-compound tires all around, too.

Any thoughts to keep from breaking more stuff? The second time I slipped the clutch, from a 3-5 mph roll, and still managed to shred apart the mounts. Other important mods are intake and exhaust (full RB), eibach springs tokico shocks, ACT SS clutch and HD pressure plate.

Thanks,
James

 

So. I can't get my FPR to drop below 7psi. I'm running a holley blue fuel pump. 110gph @ 14psi. ANd I'm using a Mallory 4309 I got from Greg. He said you stated that the fuel return was clogged, but I spraied brake cleaner and mmo down the return then ran the feul pump to bypass the FPR and Carb and run straight down the return hoping all 14psi would clear it out. I let it run for about 15 minutes, and still nothing. I hooked the carb and FPR back up and the second I turn the key 7psi and its pooring fuel out of the main jets. What the fawk is going on. I'm beyone frustrated with this. I just want it running, or gone forever. Also the car is a 83GSL if that matters as far as return size or tank size go. I figure tomarrow I'm going to try and run it with the fpr return dumping into a bucket and see if that lowers the fue pressure. Mind you these results are withthe pressure control bolt turned all the way out.

 

hmm, do the bucket test so we can determine if its your return system or if its your carb or regulator thats malfunctioning... also make sure your fuel feed line goes in the side of the regulator and out the bottom..

 

I've got the return out the bottom. the feed on the right side and the outlet to the carb on the left side.

 

[B]Hello Robert, I have no words to express my gratitude to you, I have installed the OEM 1987 EFI pump and the MSD pump with all the recomendations that you gave me and I can now say that my car is flying man, all gone are the stumbles, hesitations, its all RAW ROTARY POWER AT 22P.S.I. All the way to 8500RPMS. I could have not done it without your advice, so thanks again man, you are the best!!! One more thing, Do you think my car is making at least 450RWHP, with this setup? my engine has a rather big street porting but still idles ok at 900rpms.

 

no problem, im glad you got it running good finally
your car has to be making at least $500+ hp at that boost level,, probably more than likely 550 to the wheels... im glad i was able to help you with your tuning demonds!! now go smoke some fools!! have fun man!!

 

UPDATE: So FPR dumping into a bucket: Fuel ressure at 2.5 psi! PERFECT! soooo good news is I found the problem. either the return ine is just too small, which makes no sence cause 12at guys have no porblems with the fuel return, or it's claugged. Which I need an air compressor to unclogg it with. FAWK, I don't have one or know anyone with one!!! So I could get a bigger line and run a new line back to the tank and that'd be perfect. Problem with that is I'm allreaddy $150 overdrawn on my acct. What to do, what to do...

 

try removing the valve located above the rear axle, that should fix the problem unless your return line is clogged.. as far as your bank account being overdrawn, buy some cheese and eat it , you'll be ok

 

I am a very ignorant to the rotary and how it works. Having said that I have and '81 that I have had continued troubles smogging it. Last time I had the carb rebuilt and had one of the cat. converters custom built. It still didn't pass but I got an exemption for a year because of the money I spent on trying to fix it. It has been sitting for about a year and I just fixed a starting problem. It fired right up. If anyone can give me some suggestions. The cheaper the better. I really want this to be a project car. But I need to justify that to the person's house that I am storing it at so I would like it to be registered and not just sitting.

Thank you,
devin